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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 250 Specific Forum

Equalizing hitch

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kevinmac
Admiral

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USA
732 Posts

Initially Posted - 11/12/2005 : 21:20:09

I need to get my '01 Dodge Durango (5.9L) ready to tow my C250WK. My Durango has the hitch receiver that comes with the towing package. Should I just get the hitch and ball, or should I get an "equalizing hitch" whatever the heck that is? I have never towed anything heavier than my Coronado 15, and I towed that with a Honda CRX...so I am clueless about this.

Can anyone advise me?

Thanks.

Kevin Mackenzie
Former Association Secretary and Commodore
"Dogs Allowed"
'06 C250WK #881
and
"Jasmine"
'01 Maine Cat 30 #34

Edited by - on

Mad Dog
Deckhand

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3 Posts

Response Posted - 11/12/2005 : 22:12:40

Kevin,

I tow my 95 250 WB with a Ford Explorer AWD 4.6 L V8. For my vehicle, the owner's manual recommends using an equalizing hitch for loads over 3000 pounds. My trailer and boat weigh in at approximately 3250 puonds.

When I first brought the boat I towed it without the equalizing hitch. The front of the Explorer felt light in the steering but I wasn't out of control. With the equalizing hitch there is more weight on the front wheels and I get less bounce in the whole vehicle.

I would recommend using an equalizing hitch; the ride is more comfortable.

Edited by - on

tmark
Deckhand

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USA
15 Posts

Response Posted - 11/12/2005 : 23:24:22

I like Mad Dog's idea...get a Ford. But if you don't, I put Hellwig springs on my truck. They only work when there is a load on your truck. My truck was wearing out the tires from too much tow in from being off the ground and my headlights were in everyones face. My two ¢s worth.

Edited by - on

Quentin
Deckhand

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USA
24 Posts

Response Posted - 11/13/2005 : 08:04:21

Kevin,

Like you I am new to this stuff, the most I trailered prior to this spring was a Hobie 16 and on a alu. trailer. There's lots of stuff on the web that describes the concept of a equalizing hitch, often refered to as a weight distribution system. Try this link.

http://www.reese-hitches.com/about_weight.htm

Most equalizer hitches or weight distribution systems are designed to work with electric brakes. My TrailRight trailer has surge brakes. I have been looking for a weight distribution system that is recommended to work with my type trailer and brake system. I found the web site below, might be what I am looking for, as you are searching and learning.

http://www.equalizerhitch.com/productinfo/compatibility.php

p/s This is a great Forum. I extend my sincere gratitude to all those who participate. Olb Bombay II would have sailed rougher waters this year without your help.

Edited by - on

kevinmac
Admiral

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USA
732 Posts

Response Posted - 11/13/2005 : 19:08:55

Quentin,

That Equal-i-zer hitch from Progress Mfg looks like exactly what I am looking for. I have to buy something, I guess I will give this a try. Thanks for pointing it out!

Edited by - on

Ray Seitz
Captain

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USA
416 Posts

Response Posted - 11/14/2005 : 07:25:51

Kevin I think the equalizing hitch spreads/distributes the load to the front axels. On your door pannel or owners manual there should be a rating for your vehicles Gross Vehicle Weight or in chevys case Gross combined vehicle weight(GVW=trailer+boat+loaded vehicle) and Max. Towing capicity. Your hitch should also have a rating label on it. I have a Chev Tahoe with the towing package and it is rated for ~7400 max. towing capicity. The tounge weight (which should also be labeled on the hitch)should be around 10% of the combined trailer and boat weight (our tounge weight is 520 lbs I checked it on certified scales boat & trailer 5210lbs.) and if that weight gets close to 10% of the max. towing capicity I would be looking for a equlizer hitch.

Edited by - Ray Seitz on 11/14/2005 07:29:40

kevinmac
Admiral

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USA
732 Posts

Response Posted - 11/15/2005 : 06:59:43

Well, I found a "hitch" in the equalizing hitch. (Sorry.) The C250 trailer has a long straight drawbar, from pictures it looks to be 2 to 3 feet, before the two angled parts of the frame start out from the centerline of the trailer. The Equal-i-zer hitch, and I suspect other equalizing hitches, are designed for trailers where the frame angles out immediately after the ball.

I am sending a picture of the trailer to the hitch mfg to see if they have a solution, but I bet not...

Mad Dog, what kind of an equalizing hitch did you use?

Edited by - kevinmac on 11/15/2005 07:04:48

Quentin
Deckhand

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USA
24 Posts

Response Posted - 11/15/2005 : 07:51:15

Kevin,

Check this out I think this is your (our) answer. I copied and pasted some of the info from a web page. Below that is a link to that page.

There are two options for attaching the Equal-i-zer to a pole tongue style trailer.

#1 Pole tongue adapter. (Left Picture below) Part # 95-01-5950. MSRP for the pole tongue adapter is $103. This attaches to the trailer frame and spreads the arms out as if it were an A-frame. The pole tongue adapter attaches to the frame of the trailer in approximately the same spot as the normal brackets. Between 27” and 31” back from the center of the coupler is ideal. You will need to see if this area is clear. Order...

http://www.mrtruck.net/equalizer.htm

My Boat and Trailer is at Havre De Grace on the Chesapeake Bay. 130 miles from my home. This weekend I hope to obtain the dimensions I need to order. I don't know if the 27" -31" area is clear. I think it is. A foot note. In PA all trailer axles must have brakes. I brought Old Bombay II in from the Chicago area. (1,000 + trip). I added brakes to the rear axle

Hope this info helps.

Edited by - on

Turk
Admiral

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USA
736 Posts

Response Posted - 11/15/2005 : 09:00:13

Kevin

Looks like the lack of an "A" frame type tongue is a problem for you (I missed that one!). Any add-on to "spread" the bars has to take into account the 10 foot extension hanging under the tongue also!

I will be out at my trailer in a few hours and I will take a tape measure, level, and my camera. I will get you some dimensions and some hi-res photos. I will post them to my website later tonight. Watch for the link.

Edited by - on

kevinmac
Admiral

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USA
732 Posts

Response Posted - 11/15/2005 : 09:21:51

Thanks. The 10' extension would not be a problem on the Equal-i-zer (hate typing that name), you would just not hook up the stabilizer bars and be back to a normal hitch. But yes, you are right, the X foot straight extension from the ball to where the A shape starts looks like it would be a problem. If I understand Mad Dog's mail correctly, he has used an equalizing hitch, so maybe there is a trick here I don't understand...

Thanks for the measurements. (Think Bob Hope.) If you get a chance to measure the distance from the ball receiver to the start of the A frame, that would be great too!

Edited by - on

Turk
Admiral

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USA
736 Posts

Response Posted - 11/15/2005 : 10:10:35

Ok

The point about the extension is that it is directly below the tongue when it is stored. It may get in the way of any "spreader" bracket you buy. Does Mad dog have the mast raising trailrite with extension? The pictures I take will give you pretty much a good idea on this.

I will make sure to get that measurement to the "A" frame.

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by kevinmac
 Thanks. The 10' extension would not be a problem on the Equal-i-zer (hate typing that name), you would just not hook up the stabilizer bars and be back to a normal hitch. But yes, you are right, the X foot straight extension from the ball to where the A shape starts looks like it would be a problem. If I understand Mad Dog's mail correctly, he has used an equalizing hitch, so maybe there is a trick here I don't understand...

Thanks for the measurements. (Think Bob Hope.) If you get a chance to measure the distance from the ball receiver to the start of the A frame, that would be great too!

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Edited by - on

kevinmac
Admiral

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USA
732 Posts

Response Posted - 11/15/2005 : 13:42:59

Turk,

I got a reply back from the people that make the hitch. I'd like to email you a couple of pictures of their solution, so that you can see what measurements are critical. If you could send me private email to kevin@catapult.biz, I will send them right back. I will post them later so everyone can see them, but I don't have time to put them up on a site.

In case you never get the pictures, the basic idea is that you mount the arms using brackets around the straight part of the trailer frame just behind the ball receiver. The brackets must be mounted somewhere between 27" and 32" aft of the center of the ball receiver. So the question is, is there any space in that range that you could put a bracket completely around the trailer frame? How much space is their between the 10' extension and the trailer frame, if any, and how far back from the receiver does it start?

Thanks for the heads up on the 10' extension, I obviously did not understand. I suppose if the extension is just completely in the way, I could get the brackets welded on the side of the trailer frame...

Thanks for your help.

Edited by - kevinmac on 11/15/2005 13:48:31

Turk
Admiral

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USA
736 Posts

Response Posted - 11/16/2005 : 11:27:29

Hi Kevin

OK - here is the link to the pictures and measurements.

I see another potential problem with the front wheel on the trailer. It rotates forward and up to move out of the way when towing. It may be in the way of the hitch you are looking at. You could relace with a standard trailer wheel and telescopic extension that the wheel comes off (they are pretty cheap $25)and move it back toward the boat, or I suggest you move the front wheel to one of the legs of the "A" frame. With the weight of this trailer and the tandom axels and wheels, you can't move this thing if you tried by hand! Not even left or right. You just need something to support the front and putting the wheel on the A frame part makes sense.

Looking at the pictures you sent me I thing the bracket will fit in between the gap of the tongue and extension (1" gap). Have the manufacturer look at these pictures. Give them the link.

The last picture has all the measurements. From the top of the inside of the ball holding braket to the ground is 19 1/2".

Link:

http://www.elmhurstprop.com/trailer/index.htm?1

Edited by - on

kevinmac
Admiral

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USA
732 Posts

Response Posted - 11/16/2005 : 21:23:23

WOW!

Excellent set of pictures and measurements Turk! Exactly what I needed (lots more pictures than I needed, but I am sure I and lots of other folks will enjoy them)!

The bracket needs to be between 27 and 32 inches aft of the center of the ball receiver. From your pictures, it looks like I can put it just aft of the vertical pole, and move the jack/wheel aft of the welded support for the extension, just before where the frame starts to angle out on each side. The only hitch (sorry) is that the bracket hole may line up with the 1" space between the tongue and the extension, but tech support for the hitch company said I could put a block of metal on top of the hitch to make the lower hole line up with that space.

Thanks so much Turk, I owe you, don't know how, but someday...

Also, in case other folks are interested, I looked into the "beef up the springs" idea, and found that suspension air bags seem to be the preferred solution now, because you can adjust them easily. But apparently they are not necessary with the equalizing hitch, the hitch levers the weight of the trailer onto the front tires as well as the back.

Thanks everyone. I will post pictures when I get it installed.

Nice name for your boat Turk, by the way...

Edited by - on

Mad Dog
Deckhand

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3 Posts

Response Posted - 11/16/2005 : 22:33:50

Kevin,

After reading all the responses, it appears you have the information that you need. But to answer your question, my hitch is a Reese hitch and I use the pole tongue adapter. My trailer has surge brakes and they function well with the equalizing hitch. One word of caution; do not use a sway controling bar because it will disable the surge brakes.

When you hitch the trailer to the tow vehicle, set the tension on the bars prior to putting the full weight of the trailer on the hitch. Doing this makes setting the bars very easy.

When you pull your boat out of the water, it is a good idea to release some of the bar tension so that more weight is on the rear wheels. If you don't do this, the rear wheels may spin.

If you have any concerns about the above, any local trailer sales lot can answer your questions.

Edited by - on

Turk
Admiral

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USA
736 Posts

Response Posted - 11/16/2005 : 22:38:32

>> Thanks so much Turk, I owe you, don't know how, but someday...<<

Your welcome Kevin. I've learn alot from this forum, it's always good to give back. With the amount of detail you are putting into this boat purchase of yours, I'm sure we will see alot of innovative ideas coming from you in the coming years! Document your hitch purchase and make the manufacturer aware that there are others that will be looking for this solution some day. Post your results here once you are finished and let it get put into the archives.

Edited by - on

welshoff
Captain

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USA
253 Posts

Response Posted - 11/16/2005 : 23:43:52

Turk,
I am just impressed by your shop! Quite a bit jealous too - what a great place to store your boat during the winter and looks like a great place to work on all of life's projects!

I also liked all the photos. I was thinking of adding a launch wheel to my trailer. The measurements help a lot for my research and planning. Do you have a lift put your boat on and off of the trailer or do you slip it off the trailer?

Edited by - on

Turk
Admiral

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USA
736 Posts

Response Posted - 11/17/2005 : 01:02:21

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by welshoff
 Turk,
I am just impressed by your shop! Quite a bit jealous too - what a great place to store your boat during the winter and looks like a great place to work on all of life's projects!

I also liked all the photos. I was thinking of adding a launch wheel to my trailer. The measurements help a lot for my research and planning. Do you have a lift put your boat on and off of the trailer or do you slip it off the trailer?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Yea, everyone likes my polebarn! It's 35 x 50 and I store equipment for my business. I have a ford tractor and brush hog along with a Catipillar 416c backhoe.

The only way my boat is coming off is at the states boat ramp. It needs lots of water to get over the back bunks.

Edited by - on

kevinmac
Admiral

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USA
732 Posts

Response Posted - 12/19/2005 : 22:16:15

I am VERY happy to report that the Eqaul-i-zer hitch from Progress Mfg works perfectly towing an '06 C250WK with factory trailer behind an '01 Dodge Durango with 5.9L engine, 193" wheelbase and towing package. It eliminated sway entirely, no issues with being passed by semis. It made it a very comfortable tow. Also, the tow vehicle was completely flat, with even weight distribution on front and rear wheels.

To install it, you need the 1000 lb capacity hitch and a "Pole Tongue Adapter". The adapter goes just after of the trailer (mast raising) mast. You also need some 3" x 3" steel shims, 1/4" thick. One on each side of the tongue to make a flat surface above the square tube that holds the extension, and two on top of the tongue to move the adapter a bit higher and make the attachment bolt go through the space between the tongue and the extension.

http://www.equalizerhitch.com

Pictures to follow.

Edited by - kevinmac on 12/19/2005 22:17:39

Capt. Kurt
Navigator

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185 Posts

Response Posted - 12/27/2005 : 17:51:42

I was thinking out this upgrade someday, looks like it works great. Q: How tight of a turn can you make with the equalizer hitch installed? I looks like when you turn sharply, the sway arm will prevent movement and possible break or damage the trailer? When I launch I typically need to make a sharp 90deg turn.

Thanks,
Kurt

C250WK #818 'Tortuga'

Edited by - on

Capt. Kurt
Navigator

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185 Posts

Response Posted - 12/27/2005 : 17:55:01

Wow Turk that is a nice garage! I am jealous now!

Edited by - Capt. Kurt on 12/27/2005 18:16:11

At Ease
Admiral

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672 Posts

Response Posted - 12/27/2005 : 18:51:40

If you really want to get serious about towing, check out the RV Forum: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm Click on "Towing" or "Tow Vehicles." These folks do some heavy duty towing of travel trailers and fifth wheels.

Edited by - on

kevinmac
Admiral

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USA
732 Posts

Response Posted - 12/28/2005 : 08:55:04

Kurt, the combination of the receiver and the ball assembly is pretty long. I think you could make close to a 90 degree turn, maybe 85, you can take a look at the pictures when I get them up. (Oops, took the hitch off the SUV without taking pictures. Duh.) I have made 70 or 80 degree turns without problem.

Edited by - on

Capt. Kurt
Navigator

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185 Posts

Response Posted - 12/28/2005 : 11:29:45

Thanks Kevin, if you get a chance to post pictures that would help me visualize how that hitch joint pivots.

BTW, How much did the whole setup cost with the pole adaptor?
Thanks,
Kurt

Edited by - on

kevinmac
Admiral

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USA
732 Posts

Response Posted - 12/28/2005 : 19:21:59

I *could* have purchased it for $500 online (including pole adapter), but because of hurry, wait, hurry delivery process for boat, I bought it from a local RV dealer for $699, again including the adapter.

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