Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Suppose one puts a sailboat in water and soon notices a very small amount of water seeping around the base of the impeller housing, which is made of plastic, causing a small amount of the liquid flotation material to pool in the fore peak area. Does anyone have a sealant that might stop the leak, knowing that more of the aforementioned liquid would join its predecessors thus possibly making the leak unfixable as the sealant would not set / cure in the presence of H20? Note also that I have ascertained the possibilities in my latest West Marine reference tome and one sealant that might work underwater could not be used as it would melt the plastic impeller housing. What say you, oh sages of Catalina "fix-it" land? Gary in SoCAL Land (with sponge in hand) BTW, the seepage is only about 1/4 cup per day....but as we are well aware, water is supposed to STAY on the other side.
I presume you are talking about the knot meter impeler placed in the bow area. There are many sealants that will cure underwater. Most of the 3M sealants will cure. I have a question though about the assy. your trying to seal. My unit had an "O" ring on the impeler assy. and as you slid the impeller into the opening it had a flange or cap type threaded top that was tightened down holding the impeller assy. in place. If I was quick enough I could also remove the impeller and insert a plug provided for closing the hole up. Is your set up like this and if so why not pull the impeller out and replace the "O" ring to fix the problem ??? If not there are also several types of epoxy that will cure and set underwater. They will actualy cure better without the presence of air. They can be found at your local marine store.
Thanks for the feedback. The seepage is not coming from the impeller seal/gasket. It is from around the base and a very small amount. In fact, the leak appears today to have all but stopped since I cannot detect any water in that forward area. So maybe whatever was "loose" has now tightened up due to hull expansion or whatever. Don't really know....just has some seepage there for a few days after having the boat on the trailer for a long time and now it has stopped...for the time being. The sealant chart in the W.M. catalog said that the underwater sealant (101 Polysulfide Marine S.)could not be used on plastic (melts it). Looks like Gary's suggestion of Boat Life Caulk, p434, top left, "A", might do the trick although it is a polysulfide, which appear to not be very good with plastic. More study needed... Gary
Doug - I had a similar problem this weekend when I went in. I did some keel/hull joint work, only to find that both my depthgauge and knotmeter trickled/leaked. They were fine last year..
I don;t use or need the knotmeter - are you saying if you are quick enough you can unscrew the top of it and replace it with the plug, while the boat is in the water ? Does the impeller allow the plug to go in without having to remove the impeller itself ?
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Doug - I had a similar problem this weekend when I went in. I did some keel/hull joint work, only to find that both my depthgauge and knotmeter trickled/leaked. They were fine last year..
I don;t use or need the knotmeter - are you saying if you are quick enough you can unscrew the top of it and replace it with the plug, while the boat is in the water ? Does the impeller allow the plug to go in without having to remove the impeller itself ?
Val here,
It's nerve wracking the first time contemplating this maneuver but becomes less so with each attempt to do so. I'm one of those twitchy jerky fellows so I would imagine watching me do this would be a laugh a minute. I've reduced it to this proceedure, ( right handed) unscrew the cover with the right hand and then before pulling the speedo have the left hand inches away from the opening and when you coordinate the pull with capping the onrushing water with your left hand over the opening little or no water enters. That is unless you SNEEZE. It gets a little more challenging removing the left hand and jamming the plug in with the right hand. I can do it with only cups of water entering. Brag Brag. Left handers reverse the proceedure, I think. Val on "CALISTA" #3936 "83 wing/tall Patchogue,N.Y. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
Yep I removed my knot meter and instaled the plug while in the water. The knot meter originaly from Catalina comes out in one part. The plug goes in the same whay the knot meter comes out, it just slides in and then screw down the top. Be sure you have "O" rings on the plug. I held my hand on the hole while I picked up the plug and did the quick switch. I let in perhaps 1 gallon of water. This isnt something you want to do if your not quick and you need to have your ducks all in a row before you start.
In reply to gnorgan. YOU ARE SCARING ME. If the leak is from the flange of the through hull and its now stoped there realy isnt anything in a fiberglass fitting to swell up and make it stop. If the through hull flange was damaged or cracked by hitting something on the trailer I would be very concerned about leaving the boat in the water. The fitting could be cracked and may fail at any time. If your not sure I would pull the boat and fix the problem properly.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.