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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Cockpit cubby teak trim

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John P
Captain

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USA
324 Posts

Initially Posted - 12/13/2005 : 12:34:01

I was just thinking of all the wood I have removed, sanded, refinished, now waiting reinstallation and it dawned on me that I did not remove the P&S teak trim (coming)on the cockpit cubby's. Are these just held in place with adhesive? I plan to head to the boat during our next warm spell and remove them, but also want to make sure I bring the propper tools.

'84, C-25, SR/FK, #4663, "ILLUSIONS", Chazy, NY (Lake Champlain)
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/illusions

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 12/13/2005 : 12:36:01

My coaming trim is attached with small phillips head screws and nuts.

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John P
Captain

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USA
324 Posts

Response Posted - 12/13/2005 : 12:54:10

I was thinking mine was, but I do not recall seeing any teak plugs on it.

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aeckhart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1709 Posts

Response Posted - 12/13/2005 : 13:03:57

Most are glued. I plan on replacing them with plastic models from Catalina Direct.

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pmcarman
1st Mate

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USA
30 Posts

Response Posted - 12/13/2005 : 14:16:33

John,

Mine were siliconed in. According to Catalina Direct, they reference that the older ones had screws, which occasionally split the wood, so the newer ones are just made to be "adhesived" in, with the new plastic ones for less maintenance.

I just removed mine, and I did two things to help with the process:

1) Used guitar string to "cut" as much into the adhesive as I could around the outside between the coaming ring and the mount point.

2) Used my swiss army knife to work my way around with the blade, both around the outside of the coaming, and a little from the inside.

After doing that, did some very gentle prying, and eventually worked them out. Some sanding, some Cetol, and some gloss, and they look incredible. I much prefer to the wood to the plastic. Good luck!

-Paul

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John P
Captain

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USA
324 Posts

Response Posted - 12/13/2005 : 15:29:21

Hmmm, I knew there was a reason that I kept those old strings....

I too prefer the wood to the plastic. And if they are still in good shape then I will keep them.

I also like the seat that Frank came up with at the threshold. I may have to incorporate that if I can find some decent teak.

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 12/14/2005 : 13:24:55

Here is some serious teak for a seat. At this point I am not sure but in a week or so I might consider "kitting" a seat for someone. I am just not certain I will have all the parts right now.
[url="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TEAK-HARDWOOD-4-1-THICK-MINI-PLANKS-VARIOUS-SIZES_W0QQitemZ4597250628QQcategoryZ26448QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem"]ebay teak[/url]

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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5902 Posts

Response Posted - 12/14/2005 : 13:54:40

At least in the earlier boats, the teak trim rings were not caulked. They were just held in place with screws. If yours are caulked, I suspect it was done by a previous owner, and not by the factory. The teak trim rings don't need to be caulked, because the coaming boxes are designed to be self-draining. It is obvious that, whenever it rains hard, water is going to get into the open coaming boxes, whether the trim rings are caulked or not. Why would you caulk them to keep out water if you know that water is going to get in there anyway? Any water that gets into the boxes will drain out through the weep holes. Caulking the trim rings just makes them harder to remove and refinish.

When you refinish them, you should also seal the back sides of the trim rings with polyurethane or varnish, to seal the wood. It will help prevent the sealant from peeling off again so soon.

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djn
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1561 Posts

Response Posted - 12/14/2005 : 14:08:36

Hi Steve, I have read a couple places in this forum that the teak rings will split at the screw holes if all you do is screw them. If you caulk them, they will not split. I am taking mine off today to see is I can repair the splits and will caulk them back on so there is no pressure points to split at. Just a thought. Cheers.

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 12/14/2005 : 14:28:52

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by djn
 Hi Steve, I have read a couple places in this forum that the teak rings will split at the screw holes if all you do is screw them. If you caulk them, they will not split. I am taking mine off today to see is I can repair the splits and will caulk them back on so there is no pressure points to split at. Just a thought. Cheers.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

My 25 year old teak coaming trim rings that are screwed on, have not split.

If you plan on applying a finish, like Cetol, to the trim rings, it may be wise to make them easily removable.

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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5902 Posts

Response Posted - 12/14/2005 : 15:43:01

Like Don, mine haven’t split in the boat's lifetime(1981). The only reason they would split is if you put the screws in with too much force. The rings aren't big enough to expand and contract very much with changes in the weather, but if you screw them down too tightly, the stress when they expand and contract even a little bit might conceivably be enough to cause them to split. But there’s no reason to screw them down with that much force. They don’t serve any useful purpose. They’re there for purely cosmetic purposes, so all you have to do is screw them down snugly enough to hold them in place. If you allow the wood to deteriorate or screw them down with too much force, they might break, regardless of whether or not they have caulk behind them.

It won’t hurt them to caulk them, unless you use a caulk with an adhesive that is so strong that you break them when you remove them. I’ve seen people on the forum report that the adhesive broke their teak rings, and I suspect that would be the greater risk with the teak rings. I’m just saying that there’s really no good reason to caulk them, and it makes them harder to refinish.

Plastic expands and contracts with heat variations more than wood, and I suspect that's why CD doesn't screw down the plastic ones.

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