Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
My 86 C25 SK has had an operating Princess alcohol stove, until this week. Now that I have finally learned how to light the stove and not the boat, I would like to keep the original unit operational. I've had the burner completely apart and think I have a galled metering shaft (?). Has anyone out there rebuilt their curtain burner and what were the results. Who supplied your parts? Is there a "typical" rebuild kit that replaces moving parts? Is there a parts manual? Thanks for your help.Todd Frye
I just bought a new Origo stove for my C27 so I have the original Princess stove that I don't need anymore. The PO (I bought the boat 7 months ago) swore up and down that the Princess worked great, but I never tried it so I can't confirm this for sure.
In any case, if anyone wants it it's yours for $20, as is, and I'll pay for shipping anywhere in the US (this is probably $10 so you're really only paying $10 for the stove).
I need some good advice covering what to do about my Princess Pressure stove. Last year I purchased a burner re-built kit for one burner...and really messed it up. It doesn't work at all, now (one burner)
What I really would like to do is convert it to propane. Gordon Lepley converted his. He has a pressure line leading out from the stove in which he screws on a small tank suitable for a grill.
Where can I find parts (burners, pipes and fittings for this job?
A former employee of Princess started this company. He since passed away and his wife and family were running it - that was 3 plus years ago. I had to send my stove back twice before they got it right.
Catalina Stove Conversion - Alcohol to Propane Submitted by Adam Fishman - adam@fishbone.com = Tupelo Honey - Eugene, OR
Parts Lists <ul> <li>2 Scout Century stoves</li>
<li>2 Brass Hipressure M Throwaway - M X 1/4 Male Pipe</li> <li>3 1/4 inch street elbows</li> <li>2 Flare union 3/8 inch X 1/4 female pipe</li> <li>3 Flare union 3/8 inch X 1/4 male pipe</li> <li>Swivel Nut 3/8</li> <li>2 Flare Nuts 3/8</li> <li>3/8 copper pipe</li>
<li>2 brass Elbows</li> <li>1 Brass 3/8 T female</li>
<li>6 foot hose</li> <li>Pipe dope, all the joints except the flare</li>
<li>Assorted brass washesrs as spacers</li> </ul>
Remove the old guts of the Alcohol Stove, keeping the Nobs and Extenders with hairpins. Go to a sheet metal shop that works with stainless steel, and grind the 1/4 inch holes to aproximately 1 ", (Enough room for just 2 Brass Hipressure M Throwaway - M X 1/4 Male Pipe but not too large so to keep the hex end from going through -have them hand while it is ground to fit well) where the old alochol burers were, to the size required for the fittings to screw in to the regulator. I added 2 washers below, to tighten regulator to the Hipressure M Throwaway Pipe.<img src="http://www.netstores.com/~adam/Catalinastove/P1010097.jpg" border=0>
<pre id=code><font face=courier size=2 id=code> </font id=code></pre id=code> Remove the plastic nobs off the century stove (I used a pliers to hold valve and wiggle them off), and then file the end an 1/8 inch smaller to allow the old extenders to slip on tightly, then drill the hole through for the hairpin. <img src="http://www.netstores.com/~adam/Catalinastove/P1010100.jpg " border=0>
<pre id=code><font face=courier size=2 id=code> </font id=code></pre id=code> Go to a propane parts store, that does tubing, and they should have most of the other parts. Show them the picture and have them make the connectors to fit, and the copper tubing, with correct fittings, so it can be tested for no leaks. <img src="http://www.netstores.com/~adam/Catalinastove/P1010098.jpg" border=0>
<br>I added a hose that can come out below the stove (the front plate comes off) and I can put a bottle on the floor. In the future I am looking to add a tank off the back of the boat, but want to be sure that I can have a sniffer installed for safety.
Adam I saw your post on how to convert the stove. Im always looking for a good project so I went out right away and bought the two scout camp stoves. Im headed for the store tommorow for the fittings. Looks like it will be a nice adition and still close to original. Thanks.
Whew! I hope you guys have all due respect for propane installed in the interior of a boat and consider professional help (both plumbing and psychiatric). Just remember, propane is heavier than air, will flow to the floor and bilge and collect there, and is at least as dangerous as gasoline inside the boat. If you're living onboard and preparing gourmet meals regularly on your boats, great. Otherwise, the little Origo cooks very nicely, with no curtain-burning, and no chance of blowing everything up. A little propane grill on the sternrail, with gas stored outside in the fuel locker, is another story altogether. My penny's worth...
Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 SR-FK #5032 "Passage" in CT
I wish I had seen the retro fit plan before I decided to change the alcohol stove. We should probably post these stoves in the swap section, but I also have an orriginal stove if any one wants it. let me know through email
Bristle: I have been using propane for years. Both on the boat and off. I never keep the bottle in the cabin. I hook it up turn it on cook and shut it off then it goes out into the cockpit right away. Most of the time I like to BBQ outside anyway. One other idea. If you want to save a bundle on a nice stainless grill that can also be converted to gass look for a chefmaster heavy duty grill. The price out at around 35 to 45 $ if you shop around on the internet.
Doug, Thanks for the pictures and simplified tubing layout. Even connecting and disconnecting the propane tank each time will be more convenient than dealing with the idiosyncrasies of an alcohol stove. I picked up two propane heads last evening. What did you seal the noncompression fittings with, teflon tape? Have you decided where you are going to route the supply hose? I'll be ordering a plastic (cosmetic) plug for the hole left by the removal of the pump unit. If you want one, e-mail me your address and I'll get an extra for you at no charge.
Get a tube of thread sealing compound from you harware store. Hadnt given the bottle location a thought. Probably outside in the cockpit using a 5' hose. I have a port in my port cabin bulkhead.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Doug, Even connecting and disconnecting the propane tank each time will be more convenient than dealing with the idiosyncrasies of an alcohol stove. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> Steve: I have no idea what you're talking about! Well, I do, but like Bill Holcomb and others, I replaced our Princess with a simple, reliable, safe, effective Origo non-pressurized alcohol stove. For a few boat units, all your problems are solved. It works great, and the fuel is about as dangerous as Scotch. (...if you don't drink it.)
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette "Passage" in SW CT
Dave, I agree that a propane stove does not have as much charm as alcohol. On the other hand, I had to send my unit back to A&H Enterprises three times before they repaired it correctly <img src=icon_smile_angry.gif border=0 align=middle>! But now, the pump plunger doesn't stay seated which allows alcohol to leak and the pump handle unthreads from the plunger. I sent it to who I was told were the experts and paid an expert price and got mickey mouse results. I coverted my stove to propane for about the freight cost of one round trip to A&H. I guess I'm a victim of bad service which has ruined my opinion of alcohol stoves (at least on boats.) And maybe it's my first mate's whinning voice I hear everytime the stove leaked <img src=icon_smile_dead.gif border=0 align=middle> . Dave, e-mail your address and I gladly ship you my old, rusting and rebuilt alcohol burners free of charge. Whew, I feel better now <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle> !
I fired my converted stove up today for the first time. Wow the burners (Propane) realy put out a nice blue flame. Its sure nice to just light it up and instant flame. No putzing around with priming and pre heating. Next project= convert the stainless BBQ to propane.
Do we dare initiate a discussion regarding the taste of food cooked over a gas grill verses charcoal at this juncture <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> ? I add hickory chips to my Force 10 charcoal grill.
OK--one more time (for anyone else listening out there)... With the Origo alcohol stove, there's no pump, no seals, no pumping, no priming, no misfires, no flareups, no curtain-burning, no tanks to disconnect, no connections to leak,... Just a nice adjustable flame with one flick of your Bic. You guys can have fun with your propane bombs, but they're not necessarily the best replacement for the curtain-burners. Our friends with a very classy Mystic 30 swear by their Origo, too.
Dave: I have an original stove, I think, but mine's a Homestrand brand. It works pretty well since I put a rebuild kit in it about 10 years ago. I, too, went shopping for an Origo, but didn't have the admiral's permission to spend the 3 boat units for one. I picked up a nonpressurized stove on E-Bay for about $50, but I can't figure out how to USE it! Meaning: Each burner has a fuel cannister that seems to be filled with some sort of "wick-like" material. But it's all open around the sides....Duh, I realize how impossible this is to explain, but the bottom line is: I don't see how the alcohol will not evaporate between uses..Any ideas at all? The Origo fill from the top, doesn't it? That is the only opening, right. Open and light and adjust flame with a "lid" that moves? Thanks to anyone for any help you might be....Gary on Encore! SK/SR #685 in Kalama, WA
Gary: The Origo has a cannister for each burner that is covered by the sliding lid that is controlled by knobs on the front. When you lift the top of the box, the lids go up with it; then the cannisters, which are sitting on springs, can be lifted out to fill. Filling simply involves pouring alcohol into each cannister till you can see it in the fiberous material, although it's a good idea to fill them holding the cannister on an angle (similar to maximum heel on your boat).
While the lids do a fair job of preventing evaporation when the stove is not in use, the Origo also comes with two round rubber mats for longer-term storage (such as between weekends). You lift the top, exposing the cannisters, and place the mats on top of them. Then, when you lower the top (with the knobs in the "off" position), the mats form a gasket between the lids and the cannisters, basically locking the lids. We only fill ours a few times a season--use it mostly to make coffee and heat up some occasional snacks. This being only our second season on the boat, we may put it to more use.
Hope this helps...
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette "Passage" in SW CT
How much heat does the Origo put out? I just cooked on my older pressurized alcohol stove for the first time and was very disappointed with the time to cook some eggs. I know that alcohol doesn't have anywhere near as many BTUs as gasoline, but I'd consider converting to propane to get faster cooking.
Eric - was that boiled/poached or fried/scrambled ?
It takes a long time to boil a quart of water over my Origo 3000, but it does a quick job of heating up the frying pan or wok. In a boat maintenance class we did a compare of propane, alcohol and butane. The propane boiled water in less than a minute, the butane in 3, and we gave up on the alcohol to resume something more interesting than watching water waiting to boil. In the end, I think it was around the 8-10 minute mark.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.