Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
As hard as it is to maneuver my 6'3", 250 lb. body into position to see the drain hose for the icebox, there must be some trick to gaining access to the plumbing. Surely, I thought, if I remove the drawers below the sink I can get to the drain. WRONG! There's a beautiful piece of plywood between the two cupboard units.
Do I need to pull the whole stove unit out to get to the drain?
Is there supposed to be a check valve in the drain line to keep water from the sink from backing up in the icebox? If there is, mine isn't working. If there isn't, good ole Frank should have put one in.
What I'd REALLY like to do is just seal the drain hole and convert the otherwise useless icebox to a storage compartment.
I just replaced the tube under my sink and ice box. Yes there is a reverse flow check valve. Mine was located next to the through hull fitting. I had water backing up into my Ice box for a while and found the check valve was instaled backwards. I would not seal off the drain in the event you ever sell the boat. What about using a good rubber cork from the hardware store ?
Yes, I've thought about the high tech/rubber stopper option. I would still like to replace the old hose, because if that hose splits or leaks, then I've got a gusher in the bilge.
It feels like there's a check valve high up on my hose, near the ice box drain. So, my question remains. . . how do I get to that sucker?
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> I just replaced the tube under my sink and ice box. Yes there is a reverse flow check valve. Mine was located next to the through hull fitting. I had water backing up into my Ice box for a while and found the check valve was instaled backwards. I would not seal off the drain in the event you ever sell the boat. What about using a good rubber cork from the hardware store ?
Douglas, I just told my wife last night to close the through hull under the stove when we sail so the lake won't come up in the sink, which I have had happen on a prior boat. What does the check valve look like, and is it standard equipment? Obviously, if the check valve works right, she won't have to close the thruhull all the time. Then again, as the skipper, I like going home and leaving her (the boat, not the wife) at the dock knowing the thruhulls are closed and won't be letting the lake in after I leave.
Loren, aboard Nimue The Lady of the Lake <img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>
Brooke, I replaced the drain lines in the galley of my '78 model last year. To gain access to the lines, I removed the drawers and their plywood frame from below the sink. I, also, removed the cabinet door and frame under the stove. This gave me enough access to do the work, but it was still a tight squeeze. I connected the sink hose to the seacock on the thru hull, but just put a short length of hose on the ice box drain and let it run into the bilge. I don't plan to use the icebox as such, but it would be easy to use a "T" to connect it to the sink drain and thus the thru hull at a later time.
I also removed the two-drawer unit, frame and all, to get at the icebox. I insulated and replaced the tubing to the through-hull. Be advised, in addition to the four obvious mounting screws in the corners of the frame, mine also had some Phillips head screws on the backside of the unit that I had to feel along the inside edge of the fiberglass to find.
If anyone is interested, I replumbed my boat to empty the sink and icebox into a plastic container that sit in the bilge. The container has a small (360 gph) bilge pump and an electronic circuit that switches the pump on when water reaches an appropriate depth and keeps it on for 10 seconds after the depth drops below the sensor. The pumped water exits through a check valve and a new above-the-waterline through hull I installed while the boat was getting a bottom job. I figure the assembly can also serve as an additional bilge pump If I ever take on a lot of water!
The check valve is black plastic about 1 1/2 " in size. It almost looks like a small gas regulator. Kind of flat / square with a fitting for tube in and a fitting for tube out. Offset jogle for in and out fitting.
Thanks. . . I guess. . . for confirming my suspicion there's no easy way to get to the drain hose. When I go to the boat Saturday I'm taking my 20 year old skinny, flexible son home from college with me. Guess what he'll be doing?
Brooke, There are about 6 screws that hold the drawer unit in place. First remove the drawers then the screws and the frame will slide out making access much, much better.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.