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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
When I was reading up on biminis, I saw someone used a genoa track car as their bimini mount. I've looked at the prices of those cars and most I've found start around $40 each and would require cutting metal and drilling new holes. Sounds expensive and also would be a project. On Catalina Direct's website, they sell a 36" bimini track for $22 (http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display& Product_ID=323). I'm just not sure how well that track would work on my '82 C-25. Are there cheaper cars or methods? Has anyone used that track from CD? Where is the best place to mount it? I placed a red line where I thought the only place it would fit is: I would think it might be in the way there with that narrow deck space. Can it go on the cockpit combing? Just trying to get some ideas and if having an adjustable bimini is worth it. I am going to place an order with CD in the next day or so and if that track is worth it, I may save the shipping and buy it now.
Justin Previous Owner of Sapphire Breeze - 1982 Catalina 25 SK/SR My sail blog site: https://reveriesailing.com/
A quick search at West Marine yielded genoa track slides for $22.99ea, you may find them cheaper somewhere else, or even on eBay.
The attachment point for most of the bimini installations I've seen on C25's(including mine), have been in the vicinity of the coaming winch or just immediately forward of it. When deployed, the slides on my genoa track mounted bimini are positioned very near to the genoa winch. This attachment point is the midpoint of my bimini, which stretches from almost the end of the boom to a foot past the sliding hatch handle. When not in use, I slide my bimini aft along the genoa track and stand it up near the forward leg of the stern pulpit.
Keep in mind when positioning the bimini legs the location of the genoa track cars and sheets.
Thanks Don. So, I'd have to cut of that loop and drill holes through. I have a dremel tool, with a cutter/grinder I'm assuming I could probably cut it off with that. Having those on the genoa track would look and be better than having a seperate bimini track, so I'll look into those.
It looks like you have original genoa cars, why not buy new one ($38) and modify the old ones for the bimini? I prefer the stand-up type as opposed to the dual line type, the stand-ups flex in all planes, the double line ones can bend if stepped on wrong.
Don, I like the length of your bimini. Mine is much shorter, only covers the hatch entrance since the base is on the cabintop. I, too would like to reposition it. It only shades the hatchway and, maybe someone resting against the bulkhead.
It appears you are saying not to buy a separate track, but to mount the modified cars on your existing genoa rail. Is that correct? Did you have to modifiy the width of the bimini tubes? Is there any significant flexing of the tubes due to the curve as you slide it aft for storage?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by DanM</i> <br />...It appears you are saying not to buy a separate track, but to mount the modified cars on your existing genoa rail. Is that correct?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Dan...My response to Justin's question concerning his proposed bimini track location was to give him an idea as to where the bimini leg will end up. His proposed track location wouldn't give him much utilty.
As for mounting the bimini on track cars, yes, I'm all for it. With my unnatural aversion to making holes in my boat, the genoa track bimini mount was the perfect solution. Additionally, I had an old set of track cars that required no modifications for use with the bimini.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by DanM</i> <br />...Did you have to modifiy the width of the bimini tubes? Is there any significant flexing of the tubes due to the curve as you slide it aft for storage?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
No, I didn't modify the "width" of my bimini tubes, and yes, the tubes flex as they are slid toward the narrower aft location, but not significantly.
When I installed my bimini, it was with the intention of mounting it on the genoa track so I chose a bimini that would fit the width of both the foward and aft locations. The Taylor aluminum framed bimini I purchased had inherent flexibility since in was made to fit a range of widths. I did modify the leg heights to get a custom fit.
I decided not to buy that track from CD, already placed my order for my engine mount and other things. I will probably buy some genoa track cars. Frank, why are you recommending I modify my current cars and buy the more expensive ones you mentioned? Are you saying that mine may not move in any direction and therefore can be damaged, but those above swivel in all directions? Just looking at the photo, they appear very similar to me and I just don't know what the difference is.
An alternative way that you can install a bimini on a tall rig boat is to have a grommet for a flattening reef installed in your mainsail, about a foot above the aft end of the boom. By taking in the flattening reef, you can raise the boom about a foot, which will bring it to about the same height as the boom on a standard rig boat.
That way, you can use your existing sail and all existing rigging, and install the bimini the same way the standard rig owners install theirs. Also, the flattening reef is a useful way to tame the boat when it starts to heel a little too much, but you don't want to take a full first reef yet.
I haven't measured mine yet, might this weekend, but I'm thinking mine is a standard rig because there is over 6' of clearance under the boom. I noticed my main has two reefing points, I'm learning quite a bit.
Justin, I never pass up a chance to upgrade equipment. If your current cars are typical then they are suffering from UV exposure, no bearings and the general ravages of time. If you are going to spend money anyway why not spend a few dollars more and get new cars that will make your sail handling nicer and use the old car bases for your bimini.
Could you post or send me phots of your 25 in the water? I've always been a sucker for dark blue hulls on any vessel, but have never gotten a good look at a C25 with a blue hull.
Justin-you may already know this but a cobalt drill bit will make drilling through your stainless genoa cars a lot easier.
Ditto on the blue hull-looks nice.
Hopefully this thread hasn't gotten to old for me to ask a related question.I was getting ready to order a bimini that would mount on the genoa tracks-3 bow,6' long,44"-42" high,78"-85" wide(83" track to track at coaming winches)Do these measurements sound right?Am I missing anything?
Also, I looked at Catalina Directs biminis but it appears they only offer it 73"-78" wide and Sunbrella Royal Blue(to match the rest of my canvas) is only available on the stainless frame.I can't get more info from Lowell because his tech line is always busy.Has anyone put a CD bimini on the genoa tracks?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by ct95949</i> <br />...I was getting ready to order a bimini that would mount on the genoa tracks-3 bow,6' long,44"-42" high,78"-85" wide(83" track to track at coaming winches)Do these measurements sound right? Am I missing anything?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
It has been a while since I installed my 6', 3 bow bimini, but I think the width of mine is about the same as the one you are proposing.
As for the height of the bimini, this measurement may differ ever so slightly from boat to boat. To get the height measurement, I first hoisted the main sail then tightened the main sheet. I then custom cut the legs on my bimini to get it as close as possible to the boom so as to maximize cockpit headroom. Because of this close tolerance, when I changed main sails a few years ago, I had to modify the bimini legs again due to the boom being a bit lower with the new main.
Frank, good point, I didn’t think about that. I probably will just upgrade my current cars and modify the old ones.
Paul, here are a couple pictures of Whisper in the water. [URL=http://img450.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn13082uf.jpg][/URL] [URL=http://img225.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn130613ko.jpg][/URL] It was dark and overcast that day, so the hull looks very dark. One downside I've noticed so far is that dark navy blue really obsorbs the sunlight. It was nice during the colder days working inside the cabin, I noticed the cabin walls facing the sun were noticeably warmer than the other side. During the hot summer, that's just going to make the interior warmer. Oh well, guess I'll have to deal with it to have that beautiful, unique navy blue. I haven’t had a chance to get some better pictures yet. They will be coming soon! :) Especially since I just finished most of the exterior teak today here at my apartment and it’s looking great! I used West Marine's Wood Pro and it is very nice looking and very glossy.
Craig, thanks for the tip on cobalt drill bits. I wasn’t aware of that.
Today I cleaned my main sail and measured the luff. It was around 24’, so that would make it a standard rig as I thought. Now I’ll figure out which bimini to order and that will be a future project in a couple months along with a stereo system, oh and then a solar power system to help charge the batteries, oh and maybe a charger, and an AC inverter, the list can go on forever LOL. My current projects will be to install my new engine bracket hopefully this coming weekend if I receive it this week, reinstall all of the teak, install the new bow pulpit navigation light, and check a few other electrical connections. Then hopefully I’ll sail her soon too!
The other tip on drilling Stainless it to move agressively through the metal, if you go too slowly you will heat it up and make it harder. A drill press is best, I use double tip cobalt bits.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.