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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 250 Specific Forum

Damage Questions and then some

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DrDre
1st Mate

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USA
68 Posts

Initially Posted - 01/25/2006 : 14:19:36

We had incredibly intense winds here in NYC back in October just as I was going to put my boat up for the winter. When we arrived at the mooring field to check on our boat I found out the area damage was much worse then we had imagined. City Island and the surrounding area lost about 30 boats due to the intense winds, full moon and swells from southern storms. Luckily my boats damage was only cosmetic compared to others I saw. She was scratched up from another boat that had broken from her mooring and banged into her stern for a bit. The result was some dents in the rubrail, scratched and indented stern rail, scratched and chipped gelcoat along the transom as well as rudder and a bent tilt bracket on the motor. Insurance is covering the whole thing but I'm not sure about some of "necessary" repair. I will photograph and post damage shortly.

My questions:
1) Do I need to replace the whole stern seats assembly? (Catalina only sells them as a pair) The only damage is to the starboard side and of that only about 8 inches of scratches. Will removing/replacing all that stainless tubing damage the mounting area and compromise the integrity?

2) Is it possible to buff-out the scratches on stainless tubing or must they be replaced once damaged at all?

3) What other stress areas should look out for?

4) Has anyone replaced stanchions and if so what sort of backing plate did you use to re-enforce the unit?

5) Has anyone replaced the jib halyard on the roller furling? It's in the track and has a slug crimped on it to prevent it from coming out. How the heck is that done?

6) Finally, the halyard tail bags. What have others done to replace the cheaply made but expensive to replace vinyl bags that are snapped to the companion-way? I'd like to use the existing snaps that are already screwed into the fiberglass.

Thanks for reading this long-winded post.

--Andre'

1998 250 WK "Ananda" #373 City Island, New York

Edited by - on

frog0911
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1349 Posts

Response Posted - 01/25/2006 : 16:02:39

Pictures will give us a better idea of exactly how bad the damages were. The question on the stern pulpit is how hard was it hit? Was it enough to crack the mount location and create leaks? This would be my prime concern.
As for the halyard bags, I don't use them for halyards, but for other items that seem to run around the cockpit when under sail. Here is my set up since everything goes to the cockpit for single handed sailing. The nice thing is no holes in the boat and they last.

Starboard side: L-R Topping lift, Main haylard, Drifter haylard

Port side: L-R Drifter tack, Furler line, Reefing line, Jib haylard, Outhaul

Edited by - frog0911 on 01/25/2006 16:03:19

kevinmac
Admiral

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USA
732 Posts

Response Posted - 01/25/2006 : 16:54:08

On the furler halyard: If this is a CDI furler, you can buy a complete new track (the gray plastic piece that runs from the masthead to the bow) from CDI. It comes rolled up, and they have very specific instructions for how to unroll it. You will then need to cut it to the precise length for our boats, but there are clear instructions in the manuals available on CDI's site.

Anyway, the slug comes crimped in the track for you.

Edited by - on

kevinmac
Admiral

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USA
732 Posts

Response Posted - 01/25/2006 : 16:55:08

Frog,

Where did you get the line clips shown in the pictures?

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Russ.Johnson
Commodore

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USA
855 Posts

Response Posted - 01/25/2006 : 20:34:56

Frog,
Do you have pictures of your goose neck and mast base.
I'd like to see the Topping Lift and Outhaul run to the cockpit.

Andre'
Posting pictures will help.

Edited by - on

frog0911
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1349 Posts

Response Posted - 01/25/2006 : 22:03:38

The clips are a 3M product and are designed for removal without leaving any glue residue. I got them from Target, but Homey Depot has them sometimes. I have had them on for almost two years through two Florida summers with no problems. I did have to replace two, one was my test to see after a July through December if they would remove as easy as the manufacture claimed and the second was when I slipped coming of the cabin top and my foot caught the jib haylard and tore it off. I was thankful it was not screw to the bulkhead.

I don't have any good pictures of the goose neck and mast base, but will get some tomorrow and post here.

Edited by - on

kevinmac
Admiral

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USA
732 Posts

Response Posted - 01/25/2006 : 22:40:12

Cool, thanks Frog.

Edited by - on

frog0911
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1349 Posts

Response Posted - 01/26/2006 : 19:00:11

Here are the picutres of how the lines all run to the cockpit and the gooseneck pattern.

Starboard clutches L-R topping, main haylard, drifter haylard.

Starboard mastplate blocks aft = topping, cntr = main haylard, fwd = drifter haylard.

Gooseneck lines L-R Toping lift thru starboard aft mastplate block, outhaul thru port aft mastplate block, reefing thru fwd port mastplate block.

Port clutches L-R reef, jib haylard, outhaul

Port mastplate blocks fwd block = reef, cntr = jib haylard, aft = outhaul

Hope this helps. The arrangement has work well for us now goingon two years.

Edited by - on

Russ.Johnson
Commodore

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USA
855 Posts

Response Posted - 01/27/2006 : 19:52:21

Frog, Thank you for the pictures.
Impressive photos and detail.

Edited by - on

tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts

Response Posted - 01/28/2006 : 09:01:33

Andre',

You can remove the jib halyard by butt stitching a line of equal size and length to the existing halyard and then remove the old halyard but leaving the new line in and sewing the replacement line to it then pull the new halyard into place, removing the line not needed.

I tried replacing my old halyard with one with the crimped on slug only to have the slug and about 18" of line come out of the furler. Had to go back to the existing configuration.

Val on the hard DAGNABIT # 3936 Patchogue, N.Y.

Edited by - on

Alan Therrien
Navigator

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USA
113 Posts

Response Posted - 02/01/2006 : 20:21:59

If you are seeking to replace the halyard on a CDI furler, you can purchase the replacement halyard slug directly from CDI. I seem to recall they charged $2.50 each. I crimped mine on the new halyard line by using a pipe flaring tool. I just tightened the flaring tool down on the slug until it was firmly crimped on the halyard. Worked great, and I didn't have to buy another tool. Of course you can always spend the big bucks and purchase a new halyard from CDI with the slug already crimped onto it.

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