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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Installing Navigation Lights

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Downbucket
Navigator

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USA
188 Posts

Initially Posted - 01/28/2006 : 07:22:58

Hi:

I am working on my "Spring Projects List" and one of them is installing the bi-color navigation light and bracket on the bow to replace the hull mounted ones on my 1980 Catalina 25. CD's Catalina 25 Owner's Handbook and Catalog suggests removing the pulpit and running the wire inside the tube. Then, drill a hole up through the base of the aft stanchion mounting pad and run the wires through the deck and connect them to the original wires.

Has anyone done this? If so, any suggestions, hints, caveats etc.?

Thanks.

Will

Edited by - on

tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts

Response Posted - 01/28/2006 : 08:37:10

Mornin Will,

My boat came with the pulpit mounted nav lites ( '83 ) but I munched the pulpit and had to replace it. Essentially what you are faced with is threading the wires fron the lights down one leg of the pulpit and out its base (the hole was already there)and into the anchor locker to be made-up to the old wires. If your wires are already in the locker you'll do the same as I did. I don't know how you intend to mount the light on the pulpit. In my case the factory mount was there. I don't remember seeing one on the older pulpit.

Best of luck in your project.

Val on the hard

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 01/28/2006 : 10:01:05

Last Spring while assisting a new fellow C25 owner with his mid 80's boat in the slip next to me, I barely touched his pulpit mounted factory bow light when it went "tink"

and parted from the pulpit. Even though the owner, a really good guy, said not to worry about it, I was overcome with both embarrassment and guilt.

I'm still trying to make it up to him.

Edited by - on

ct95949
Captain

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Aruba
300 Posts

Response Posted - 01/28/2006 : 11:14:52

Hi Will

I am about to start the same project.I bought port,starboard and stern Aqua Signal Series 25 lights with rail mounts.I hope they hold up better than the one Don broke

It seems like running the wire will be the tricky part-I planned on using 16 or 18 gauge duplex-something small enough to snake through the tubes.This will be a good time to re-bed the pulpit bolts.I too would value any input from someone who has done this job.

Thanks,Craig

Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 01/28/2006 : 11:30:18

Did it about 3 years ago.

Two tips. First, run a a small line through with your wire to keep in place so you never have to fish it again.

second, be patient and use a bunch of caulk.

dw

Edited by - on

Downbucket
Navigator

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USA
188 Posts

Response Posted - 01/28/2006 : 11:42:39

Hi Don:

According to the Owner's Handbook, the light you broke was welded to the bow pulpit and apparently not very well. The replacement bracket, as pictured in the Handbook,appears to have the pulpit inserted through the mount. This appears to make it less susceptible to breakage.

Will

Edited by - on

Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 01/29/2006 : 08:23:32

Once you have the holes drilled, use a light string and a vacuum. Suck the string through and then use the string to pull the wire. Tie a little piece of a rag on the end of the string to help it through.
Dan

Edited by - on

tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts

Response Posted - 01/29/2006 : 10:32:13

Dan, That's a novel idea, using a vacuum to snake a pennant through a tube...I never thought of that opting instead to pass a light wire to pull the other wires through. NEAT

Val on the hard DAGNABIT # 3936 Patchogue, N.Y.

Edited by - on

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 01/29/2006 : 11:41:14

"...use a light string and a vacuum."

That's basically how electricians get wire pulled through a long conduit.
However, it's usually done by blowing the string through the conduit rather than using suction.

Typically a little 'mouse' will be tied on the end of the string.

The 'mouse' is just a little piece of plastic garbage bag, tissue paper, or other 'fluffy' material (etc.) that is slightly smaller than the diameter of the tubing. This gives a bigger air pressure differential and lots more pulling power.

You can easily get a 'pull string' through hundreds of feet of conduit this way. Often a second pull string will be pulled into the conduit along with the wire. This allows you to pull in additional wires later on if needed.

Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 01/29/2006 : 11:50:07

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Downbucket
 Hi Don:

According to the Owner's Handbook, the light you broke was welded to the bow pulpit and apparently not very well. The replacement bracket, as pictured in the Handbook,appears to have the pulpit inserted through the mount. This appears to make it less susceptible to breakage.

Will
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Will - We had the old fisheyes on the Wasp prior to the change. We used the Aquasignal 25 series running light. The pulpit went through it by means of a u bracket and a fancy plastic cover it is nearly identical to the one you mention as being less susceptible to breakage. Unfortunately, a Piling or nice dock box will knock that off just as easily as Don's hand did with the welded one. Morale of the story, never approach a dock at a speed faster than you want to hit it.

dw

Edited by - on

tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts

Response Posted - 01/29/2006 : 12:47:58

Bruce,

With the mouse it sounds like you have an aboriginal blow gun...Doubly NEET

Val on the hard DAGNABIT # 3936 Patchogue, N.Y.

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 01/29/2006 : 14:31:03

"... sounds like you have an aboriginal blow gun..."

You're close.

For sport on graveyard shift we used a piece of 1/2" EMT (light gauge conduit) for the gun. A sharpened piece of heavy stainless wire stuck through a foam earplug makes a rather deadly dart for use on mice. Good for target practice too.

Graveyard = boring. Electricians = resourceful.

Edited by - on

sweetcraft
Admiral

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USA
816 Posts

Response Posted - 01/29/2006 : 14:33:52

I did the repair to a friends 25 after it was broken off and used to SS hose clamps which was forgiving for the next bump or grab. I do electrical and the vacuum is the best as you can work by yourself and the mouse goes to the vaccum. It stops pulling when the mouse reaches the machine but you do have to watch for rope (string) burns as it can reach speeds up to 100 knots. My bow lights are still in the hull and friends tell me when they are not working. The lights were a leak between the hull and the liner when the level was up in the anchor locker. This has reminded me to put this on the list to check before Spring launching.

Edited by - on

Justin
Admiral

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502 Posts

Response Posted - 01/30/2006 : 19:06:19

This is perfect timing for this thread. I just received my shipment from Catalina Direct when I came home from work. One of the things I ordered was this light, along with the new 4 spring motor mount and some other things. Thanks for the above tips.

Edited by - on

Justin
Admiral

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502 Posts

Response Posted - 02/04/2006 : 11:33:04

Can anyone recommend what type of wire to buy for connecting these lights? Also, where can I buy it? I know radio shack and home depot have a lot of electrical wire, but is there a special marine grade recommended?
Thanks,

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 02/04/2006 : 11:46:34

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Can anyone recommend what type of wire to buy for connecting these lights? Also, where can I buy it? ... is there a special marine grade recommended?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Yes, there is special marine grade wire. Don't use anything less. You can buy it over the counter at places like West Marine, and maybe your local boat parts peddler, but double check that the local guy is selling you genuine marine wiring. (It says right on the wire.) You can also mail order it from places like Defender Industries.

Also be sure you're installing the correct guage wire. If you're running individual wires, and not duplex, there is an industry standard color code which those who follow you will be glad you complied with (or will wish you had).

(You know, what this BBS software needs for people like me? A 'smiley face' icon for strident soapbox pontificating!

)

-- Leon Sisson

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 02/04/2006 : 11:53:00

[url="http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/05.htm"]Electrical Connections by Don Casey[/url]

[url="http://www.ancorproducts.com/Technical_information/Wire_calculator.php"]Ancor Wire Calculator[/url]

Edited by - on

ct95949
Captain

Members Avatar

Aruba
300 Posts

Response Posted - 02/04/2006 : 12:48:30

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">You know, what this BBS software needs for people like me? A 'smiley face' icon for strident soapbox pontificating!)

-- Leon Sisson

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> I'll be looking for that icon Leon,I've gotten a lot of good ideas from your 'strident soapbox pontificating'

Edited by - on

mmac
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
168 Posts

Response Posted - 02/04/2006 : 18:24:00

Justin- These guys are correct use only "marine cable" on your boat. The Catalina 25 Owner's Manual is a good place to start to find wire gauges. If you don't have one, you can get it on our web site.

Don-Thanks for the calculator. I wish I had it last year when I was rewiring the boat and mast.

Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 02/04/2006 : 19:16:59

Marine Wire is copper braid with a coating of tin on it. This keeps it from corroding, which is what non tinned wire will do in a wet environment. The braid is also better for the marine life, as opposed to the single strand copper in most homes.

You can find a lot of wire online for a lot cheaper the the evil empire sells it for. I usually use www.froogle.com . One next to the last thought, wire is sold for the marine environment a bit differently, 12-2 is just that, 12 guage, two strands AC and DC as best as I can tell. In the home environment 12-2 has a common, a hot and a ground. There isn't a ground in the marine environment, If you need one for AC work, you'll need to actually buy 12-3.

And the last thought: I would also recommend one of the books on the website in the links section for electrical work. Its easy to wire everything, however proper procedures ensures that your batteries will last, that your components don't get messed up and all your safety equipment works as expected when you need it. Take the time to do the research.

duane

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Justin
Admiral

Members Avatar

502 Posts

Response Posted - 02/04/2006 : 19:41:40

Thanks for the tips everyone. I thought there was probably a certain marine grade wire. I'm probably only going to need a few feet since I'm planning to connect to the original bow light wires. I'll read up on that article by Don Casey. I already have some electrical experience from building radio control electric powered airplanes and gliders since I was an early teenager. I've even assembled my own battery packs back then, so I've done lots of soldering and electrical connections. I've also done car stereos, but still there will be somethings I will learn with the marine environment. About the manual, yeah I printed it out a while ago and in fact was just looking at it.
Thanks,

Edited by - on

DaveC25
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
152 Posts

Response Posted - 02/14/2006 : 15:27:39

For curiosities sake, why do you want to stop using the hull mounted lights? My seem to work well enough. Is there an advantage to the pulpit mounted lights?

-DaveC25

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djn
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1561 Posts

Response Posted - 02/14/2006 : 15:33:03

Hi Dave, I don't know this first hand, but what I read was that they are too low and in a choppy harbor or even out in the chop, they go out of site too easily. Putting them on the pulpit rails gets them up where they can be seen while doing the dance. Cheers.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 02/14/2006 : 19:08:37

I had no issues with my hull lights on my 82, I think they look nice.

Edited by - on

existentialsailor
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1180 Posts

Response Posted - 02/15/2006 : 04:40:58

HAs anyone used the wire harnesses from Catalina Direct? I'd like to replace my mast wiring this year and see they have a preconfigured mast wiring harness.

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