Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I want to take the head out of the boat (82 Catalina) to replace some of the gaskets and seals and give it a good cleaning. It seems to be attached with bolts that go through the floor. How do I get to them to back off the nut on the bottom side? I took off the wood pieces that are in front of the the toilet near the floor. No access there. I went in under the port side seating access and tried to get to it from there, no luck. I've also tried searching past posts. Any hbody have any ideas? Thanks
I too have and '82 and I will will be rebuilding the head this off season. This past season I noticed that the front left bolt was coming loose. I was suprised when I tried to tighten it that it was in fact a wood screw and it was stripped. I have yet to figure out how to fix it. ANy ideas?
When I installed my marine head, I used thru-bolts, fender washers, and nuts to attach the base to the horizontal platform of the hull liner. The liner there has a thick plywood core.
First, I verified that the teak plywood portion of the former porta-potty platform was large enough to be recut to cover the fore-aft vertical step at the inboard edge of the fiberglass head platform. If your boat was built like mine (always a hasty assumption with C-25s), one edge of that piece of plywood already has nice teak trim.
Next, I cut the largest slot in that inboard-facing vertical part of the platform I could while still leaving a 1-1/2" lip on all four sides. This lip is to be 1-1/2" <b><i>as seen from inside that blind cavity below the platform</i></b>. This means cutting a smaller slot first, so you can measure where to cut the final larger slot.
Then I made up four pieces of oak 1x2 stock. Two long enough to fit inside the upper and lower edges of the slot, from fwd most obstruction to aft most obstruction. Then I cut two short pieces of oak 1x2 to fit behind the fwd and aft edges of the slot, tightly filling the gaps between the ends of the two much longer horizontal pieces. I then gave all four new pieces of oak two or three coats of epoxy resin. I then bedded them in place inside the previously inaccessable space below the head platform around the edges of the recently cut slot using a mush of thickened epoxy and several small clamps.
While that was curing, I trimmed the former porta-potty plywood platform extension to cover the entire inboard face of the fiberglass platform where the new slot was cut. I left the new upper edge of the plywood (with the teak trim on it) a little tall to act as a fiddle rail for the head platform.
Working through the new slot, it was possible to mount the base of the marine head with thru-bolts, fender washers, nuts, and any other backing material I felt like shoving in there. (I don't now recall what, if any, additional backing I stuffed under there. I suggest you set the head in place sit your largest crew member on it, and see how badly the shelf sags. The diplomatic aspects of that experiment I leave to your resourcefullness.)
After mounting the head, I installed the recycled teak plywood cover plate with about six or eight #8 or #10 oval head self-tapping SS screws with SS trim washers. You could also counter sink them.
I seem to recall Duane W having done something similar to mount a head in his C-25.
On my 88 the deck the head sits on has a 4" or 5" whole drilled into it and a threaded deck plate attached. The head was then bolted with ss nuts and bolts.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.