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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
 Catalina 25 Specific Forum
 Keel Bolt Torque
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danandlu
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USA
175 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/22/2006 :  11:28:01  Show Profile  Visit danandlu's Homepage
Light is at the end of the tunnel, spring will soon arrive.

I purchased "Chesapeake" in October. She had been in storage for about 10 years in Denver, shrink wrapped at a storage lot. I took a chance and bought her from my brother in laws brief inspection and photos and much study on this great site. I think I made the right decision. I'll know more soon.

So here's my first "official" question (many more to follow as I prepare for 1st launch): What are the torque specs for the keel bolts? (I did a search, all I could find was 39 ft./lbs. for the wing keel - mine is a cast iron fin).

Thank you.

Dan Henderson
1982 FK/TR #3328
"Chesapeake"
Missoula, Flathead Lake, Montana


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JimB517
Past Commodore

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3285 Posts

Response Posted - 02/22/2006 :  11:33:03  Show Profile  Visit JimB517's Homepage
When I had my new stainless steel "sister" keel bolts put in the keel expert told me "as tight as you can get them". I used a 2 foot breaker bar to tighten them after the first year.

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Steve Milby
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5902 Posts

Response Posted - 02/22/2006 :  12:09:13  Show Profile
Why do you want to tighten them? Unless you have reason to believe they have loosened, I'd leave them alone. If you tighten them unnecessarily, you could crack the seal that keeps water out of the keel stub, and cause problems. If you see some cracking around the keel stub, that indicates some degree of movement, then you should probably torque them down and seal over the crack with a good barrier. But, if not, I'd follow the rule that, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

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danandlu
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Response Posted - 02/22/2006 :  15:43:18  Show Profile  Visit danandlu's Homepage
I am a big believer in, "ain't broke, don't fix", sometimes too much so. There is some cracking of the bottom paint as my photos show (paint was applied 10 years ago just prior to storage). To me the cracks appear to be too low to be where the keel meets stub. But I'm not sure. If this cracking is just cosmetic I won't worry about it.


Aft, port, looking forward.


Aft, starboard, looking forward.


Forward, looking aft.

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frog0911
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1349 Posts

Response Posted - 02/22/2006 :  17:35:41  Show Profile
Before I would do any bolt tighting I would grind or sand around the crack to see if it goes up into the fairing. It appears that it is a crack in the keel coating from a grounding incident. If it is in the coating and does not go up into the fairing I would not do anything to the bolts, as someone already mentioned, it may create more problems. Just grind the keel and repair the exterior coating.

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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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5902 Posts

Response Posted - 02/22/2006 :  18:37:00  Show Profile
I just found a note in the C25 Owner's Manual, under the heading of "Keel Maintenance," that says the keel nuts should be torqued to 35 lbs. I can't tell from the photos what's going on with your keel, but if it looks to you like there's a crack at the joint, I'd suggest you torque them, and then paint 3-4 coats of VC Tar over the crack, to seal it. Then just check it whenever the boat is out of the water, to see if there are any signs of further cracking or movement.

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danandlu
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175 Posts

Response Posted - 02/22/2006 :  21:53:53  Show Profile  Visit danandlu's Homepage
Thank you Jim, Steve, and Frog for the replies.

Steve, I think the manual is referring to the swing keel bolts when saying 35 lbs. torque. "To remove the keel you will note that the keel pivots on a rod, secured




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


--16--
by two cast fittings recessed into the hull. Should the keel require removal at any time, these castings may be unbolted by removing the stainless steel cable and the four 3/8 x 16" bolts from the underside. Make sure that the keel is well supported before removing these fastenings.

When replacing the keel be sure to use lock washers and a liquid locking agent like "lock tight". The bolts should be reset with a torque wrench to 35 Ibs. ea."
I've never worked with VC Tar before. I noticed that a thinner is listed for sale with the VC Tar. Should I buy it also?

As soon as it gets warm enough I'll sand and get a better look. At that time I'll post photos and ask for more advice. I'm assuming the worst that could happen is some seepage? It isn't going to fall off.

Thanks all!

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