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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

General Sailing Forum

Electric Trailer Brakes - Ideas?

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tmhansen
Captain

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USA
397 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/27/2006 : 01:23:28

Last year I replaced the axels on the traler and installed new brakes. I chose to install electric brakes because they offer better control over when they come on vs. surge brakes. Now a year later I am having trouble. I wonder if anyone has any ideas or has experienced similar.

When I first installed them, if I activated them manually they would slow the whole rig. Now they seem to be virtually ineffectual. When we activate them I can still hear the magnets in each wheel humming. I pulled all four drums and checked the condition of everything and everything looks to be in good shape. I readjusted the brake pads, repacked the bearings and put it all together.

We mostly launch in salt water. Each time we pull the boat out I flush the brakes with fresh water, either at the ramp or at home if no water is available at the ramp. If I flush at home I make sure and drive around a bit and use the brakes to warm them up so that they are not put away wet.

When I wired the trailer I used 12 gauge tinned wire. I sealed the wires but it is possible water has gotten into the wire but it should not have corroded the wires. How can I check to make sure I am getting the proper amount of current at the wheel? The actuator has a digital display that reads the voltage it thinks it is sending to the trailer.

Another thought was that the electro magnets could be losing their power as their windings corrode but they look ok by visual inspection. Would a resistance check be able to tell me what is going on inside?

Another thought I had was that maybe the side of the drum is too rusty where the magnet contacts it and therefore it does not grab the drum as tightly as before.

It will be two weeks before I have a chance to jack up the boat and trailer and look into this further. I wondered if anyone had any similar experience (I know most use hydralics) or any ideas on how to narrow identify the source of the problem.
there was too much rust on the face of the drum

Todd Hansen
Fiorghra'
San Luis Obispo, CA

Edited by - on

Turk
Admiral

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USA
736 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2006 : 06:18:49

I spoke to my local trailer sales company (one of the largest in the country) about electric brakes for my boat trailer since I already had the control modual in my truck. They told me not for any kind of boat trailer. That's why they invented surge brakes. You've already guessed the reason - water and corroded coils. That was their advice. They do not sell boat trailers so you may take that into consideration, but it makes sense. Sorry.

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2006 : 06:38:31

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Turk
 I spoke to my local trailer sales company (one of the largest in the country) about electric brakes for my boat trailer since I already had the control modual in my truck. They told me not for any kind of boat trailer. That's why they invented surge brakes.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I did a lot of research into this for a Mainsheet article and your trailer guy is wrong. Pretty typical for a trailer guy. Modern electric brakes are the preferred design for boat trailers. They do recommend unplugging them before you submerge, but the components themselves are fine for submersion. Imagine pulling a trailer for an hour in a thunderstorm; that is submersion!
Here is an article from Boat US...[url="http://www.boatus.com/trailerclub/upkeep/electricbrakes.asp"]electric boat brakes[/url]

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stampeder
Master Marine Consultant

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1608 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2006 : 22:37:38

While I've had no problems stopping with my single axle surge brakes...I'd like to know what is the best braking system. Thanx for the article Frank, it keeps the debate alive.

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tmhansen
Captain

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USA
397 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2006 : 23:29:22

Thanks for the link Frank. The Fulton system mentioned in the article is what I have installed. I always disconnect when launching, I have to to use the extension. I always leave the electrical connection until last when leaving the ramp area.

Edited by - tmhansen on 02/27/2006 23:31:32

Rollo
Deckhand

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USA
4 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2006 : 04:15:27

First check the sides of the drums for rust. Sandpaper Works. Check the shoes for grease contamination. Ether is a good solvent for grease. If grease is the problem check for cracked seals. Check adjustment. The brakes should drag when rotated by hand.

You can use an ohmmeter to check the coils. Measurements are for volts and amps. Volts should start at zero then increase to about 12 as your ramp up the controller use both magnet wires. Minimum acceptable voltage at the magnets is 10.5.

Amps can be measured system wide by connecting inline with the blue wire behind the controller. Use max gain on controller. Have engine running for all measurements. Amps for entire system should be 3 x the number of brakes. To measure amps at the brakes disconnect one side of the magnet harness and measure inline at that point. Reading should be 3 amps with the controller on max. Magnets should be cool to test.

Rollo 89 wk diesel

Edited by - on

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 03/11/2006 : 18:05:06

I've been messing with boats in salt water for almost 40 years now.
Over that time I've come to discover a number of universal truths.

1) If it's steel it will rust.
2) If it's aluminum it will corrode.
3) If it's wood it will rot.
4) Electrical devices and salt water don't mix.

IMHO: Electric trailer brakes fit nicely under truth #4 above.

My first choice would be stainless disks with a surge actuator. They really aren't all that expensive to retrofit on most trailers. Just hose 'em off, everything's exposed.

They will last longer than most of us will.

Edited by - on

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