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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
 Catalina 25 Specific Forum
 Reseating Pulpit/Stanchions
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bbriner
Captain

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349 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/09/2006 :  14:43:34  Show Profile
When I was cleaning/inspecting the v-berth I noticed some discoloration of the fiberglass and corrosion of the through-bolt on the aft/port-side pulpit stanchion. You can sort of see it on this picture:
http://www.pbase.com/bbriner/image/56993304

I'm guessing I have to remove the entire pulpit and reseat it at least. Any thoughts on what I will need to do? I haven't reseated any deck hardware yet. TIA.

Bill B
Wind Dancer
#4036 84 SR/FK
San Francisco Bay


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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2006 :  20:18:16  Show Profile  Visit Leon Sisson's Homepage
Bill B,

Actually, with the pulpit, you can probably just lift one aft 'foot' and rebed it. (The two fwd ones are too close together to permit that much flexing.) I assume you've read here about the drill 2x, fill with epoxy, redrill, rebed method. I also assume that's not what you had in mind this time around. Even if you could get room to slightly countersink the bolt holes in the deck from above, that would greatly improve the odds of it not leaking there again soon.

-- Leon Sisson

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John V.
Admiral

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USA
559 Posts

Response Posted - 03/11/2006 :  07:13:02  Show Profile  Visit John V.'s Homepage
Since Nin Bimash is only in the water for about 7 weeks per year, she spends the bulk of her time under cover. If you are not constantly exposed to the weather, the drill x2 epoxy method might not suit your needs. I have re-bedded my stanchions and pulpit using 3m 4200. If you have moisture in the core make sure you can keep the boat where the deck is dry for long enough to let the bolt holes dry out. It takes a little finesse and another set of hands but you need to put the ring of bedding around the base, then while holding the base off the deck slip the bolts through the base and then before pushing them through the deck, put a ring of 4200 around each bolt above the threads. When the bolt is pushed through the deck, the 4200 is pulled down into the hole, sealing each. (then you don't have the bedding compound in the threads).

good luck.

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bbriner
Captain

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349 Posts

Response Posted - 03/11/2006 :  11:47:38  Show Profile
Thanks John & Leon -
I've read about the drill 2x & epoxy method, but I haven't done it yet, so I really don't know what to expect. I hadn't thought of just doing the one stanchion without taking the whole pulpit off. I'll try that first since getting to the front stanchions looks like it could be trying. I've read too that when seating hardware into the deck, after drilling the 2x hole then you should drill out the wood a bit so that it's concave inside the hole (not sure if that's a very good description)... has anyone done that? Is that recommended? I *am* concerned about leakage into the deck core due to the discoloration, so maybe that would solve that problem too (?). (It's raining a LOT here now so this isn't something I'm going to undertake right away). Thanks again..

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tzk53s
1st Mate

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USA
33 Posts

Response Posted - 03/15/2006 :  11:53:47  Show Profile
I think the idea of getting into the area between the outside deck and inside V-berth is right on. If you discoloration that has leached into the cabin then rot is the culprit. Once the oversized hole is done this should give you clearance to get a small round "sawblade"(about 3/4inch dia.) in between the panel and just grind away at the core. Put some duct tape on the inside of the hole and then fill with epoxy until flush with the deck. Use a small straw to stir the epoxy mixture and this should allow any air bubbles to excape. Once set up sand the small crown of the epoxy off and center punch and redrill the bolt whole to correct dia. (1/4inch) I would suspect that most all of your other through deck hardware is ready to be rebedded as well. My 78SK was redone in 2002. I used the 3M101 bedding but I do not know if that is available anymore. The stuff works great and never trully hardens so maintains a good seal.

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ed_spengeman
1st Mate

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USA
98 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2006 :  11:34:06  Show Profile
I'm getting ready to re-bed deck equipment. it appears I have some leaks from bolts in the jib track. Since I don't have access to all the bolts, I can't get the track off. What's the next best way to re-bed under these circumstances?
Ed Spengeman

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johnsonp
Admiral

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USA
606 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2006 :  14:55:12  Show Profile
<font color="blue"><font size="4"><font face="Comic Sans MS">Nice clean boat.
I think your on board clock is off.

paulj C250 WK #719</font id="Comic Sans MS"></font id="size4"></font id="blue">

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jaclasch
Navigator

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USA
104 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2006 :  19:45:06  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by ed_spengeman</i>
<br />I'm getting ready to re-bed deck equipment. it appears I have some leaks from bolts in the jib track. Since I don't have access to all the bolts, I can't get the track off. What's the next best way to re-bed under these circumstances?
Ed Spengeman
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I asked the local marina mechanic who does jobs like this what the easiest approach is and he said take out the bolts in the suspected area, goop them up with sealer, and put them back and see if that does the job. I would like to hear from others who have had this problem since my boat has a mild case of leakage but so far only when snow and ice builds up in the scuppers so the water has a chance to sit there when it melts.

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Shauneen
1st Mate

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USA
27 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2006 :  22:25:39  Show Profile
Today we attempted to remove the pulpit with plans to rebed all the deck hardware. Unfortunately wiring runs up through the pulpit to the running light. I don't know if this is a standard configuration or work done by a previous owner.
After removing the stanchions I found the base of several to be slightly bowed. I'm assuming they should be flat and their current shape contributed to the leakage below deck. Any suggestions on how to return them to there correct shape or do they need to be replaced? Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Shauneen

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