Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
As the season approaches I have a problem I need to fix with my mooring anchor. I am located on an inland lake in a bay that gets the brunt of westerly winds. The "anchor" for my mooring consists of two sections of railroad rail about 5 feet each. One is heftier than the other and weighs about 300 lbs. It is on the end of my chain with the chain going through the center of the rail. As we move toward the boat, I have 5 feet of chain and then the other rail (about 250 lb.) to act as a "bobbing" weight. I then have about 28 feet of chain, swivels, etc. and finally the mooring ball. I'm in about 9-10 feet of water and the bottom is sandy or muddy.
The problem I'm having is that the weight gradually moves across the bottom over the season and needs to be repositioned at least once per year. I need it to grip the bottom. I can weld this or that to it to make it "dig in" and am looking for suggestions on what shapes or items to add to the rail to make it bury itself better. I can cut a new hole in the end of the rail for the chain this time to make it look more like a conventional anchor and add material to the other end. This thing has to come up at the end of the season so I can't just load it up and send her over the side. We have a barge and a winch to bring them up at the end of the year. I have a construction company down the street that will help me and they have steel plate and various item and can torch or weld what ever I want.
Rather than use that second piece of rail as a 'kellet' (salty term for weight on an anchor line) I'd weld it to the main rail to make a 'X'.
Crossed rails acting as a single unit will offer a lot more resistance as the ends of the rail will tend to dig into the bottom if it's being pulled. There may be other configurations that would work too... objective is to get something that will dig into the bottom.
After all that is done, hang a smaller 50 lb weight (or so) on the main line as a kellet and use a stretchy nylon snubber line to reduce jerking on the mooring... or switch to a nylon rode.
Tom: One technique I am aware of is using old truck tires filled with concete set on top of an upside down old snow sled disc to seal the concrete into the tire. An attachment ring is put into the concrete to ceate a significant kellet. These chained in series will create a suction effect with your bottom muck yet be able to be individually hoisted out with your barge winch. Ron
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.