Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
My 77 C25 is coming along very well but like any rebuild you come to things that are unexpected. the rubrail at the bow must have sustained some damage and was removed and replaced with a section of wood covered in fiberglass and screwed in place. I bought a 6 ft section of the aluminum extrusion, and will replace the section that is missing. I also bought 50+ feet of the vinyl insert.
Has anyone had any experience putting a new vinyl into the extrusion? Catalina direct suggests soaking it in hot soapy water before threading it in one piece all the way around the boat.
I probably won't get into the water till July, but since I will be living aboard for long periods of the remainder of the summer I want to be sure I get things right.
I just ordered new rubrail from Catalina Direct, too, so I'm about to tackle the same project. Here is a thread about replacing the rubrail that appeared a few weeks ago on this board:
'Sounds like heat (either hot water and/or hot air blower) plus stretching and a rubber mallet is the way to go ... we'll see. BTW, my boat is also a 1977 (hull #68), and it is really built like a tank ... 'glad I found it.
I just did this job in March. It's not hard at all. Just let the rubber sit in the sun for awhile. That will make it very pliable. I think a screwdriver with a wide blade is more useful than a mallet. Just start one edge in the track and use the screw driver to fold the other edge in. Be sure to lay out the rail around the deck hardware so it is easy to position as you go. My boat was on the hard when I did it, but it wouldn't be that much harder to do it in the water. Just tie the screw driver to your wrist!
I have replaced the rub rail on both my Cat 22 and my Cat 25. Here in Oregon leaving the rubber out in the sun to warm up is not an option. I found that using a bucket of hot water as suggested by the folks at Catalina Direct did not work very well. By the time I had the rubber out of the bucket and in position to put in the track it had cooled off. What worked best for me was a heat gun, the kind you would use for stripping paint, and a rubber mallet. I heated up about a 3ft section, placed the bottom side of the rubber in the aluminum rail then used the mallet to work the top in. It goes pretty fast once you get the hang of it. Be careful not to leave the heat gun focused on one spot too long!
Hi lowell, Here in ohio, this spring has been so cold that your suggestion of the heat gun sounds pretty good. We have been having hard freezes in the past week down to 29-30 degrees. Did you have to be careful about heating it too much? I know vinyl has a low melting point and those heat guns go way above that point. I might wait for a hot day and stick with a hair dryer.
I didn't have any trouble with the vinyl getting too hot, but I think you could if you left the gun in one spot too long. I just kept the heat gun moving back and forth over a 3 ft section until it was pliable. I did my project in early March in 40 to 45 degree weather with the boat on a the trailer. That rub rail vinyl is pretty tough stuff. With just a little caution you won't have any problems.
I agree with the other guys here. The grey color is the way to go. It is amazing how much better the boat looks.
My rubrail had a rather intimate meeting with a breakwall. The actual rubber part came out okay but the aluminum (?) track itself was dented. Has anyone any experience with replacing the track? Thanks!
When I replaced my rub rail I also had to replace a section of channel. I bought an 8' piece from Catalina Direct when I bought the rail. I removed the rub rail, unscrewed the channel where I wanted to replace it, carefully measured and cut the old piece to leave a gap that exactly matched the replacement section in length (I used to Dremel tool to fine-tune the length), used the old piece to match where the screw holes were, drilled the holes in the new section, placed a ring of caulk around each screw hole on the boat, and rescrewed the new section into place. Took about two hours while the boat was on the hard.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.