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Replace Sink and Faucet-Access Issue

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Cate
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199 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/18/2006 : 12:56:00

I need to replace my sink and faucet.(1983 Cat-25)
I have two removable drawers underneath, but the frame remains.
Does anybody have an idea of how I can access the sink and faucet easily.
I am afraid I will have to contort and twist and turn and curse a lot trying to get at these plumbing items.

1983 C-25, Standard rig, swing keel

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
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Response Posted - 04/18/2006 : 13:25:08

Cate,

In my 1979 C-25, those drawer/door frame assemblies come out towards you after removing I think it was four screws each, in the corners of the trim/frame.

The one under my galley sink was so tight in the fiberglass cutout, and so badly water damaged, I ended up removing it in pieces. Because of that, while I had them out, I first repaired the damage, then saturated all parts of the drawers and frame assemblies except the visible cosmetic surfaces with two to four coats of WEST epoxy resin.

I also sealed/reinforced the drawers with a small fillet of thickened epoxy along the inside of the joint seams. Another advantage of epoxy sealing the drawers is if any other liquid were to get loose in there, (condiments, oil, sun screen, whatever) the mess will be better contained than if it were able to leak through the drawer and into the bilge.

On the visible areas, I washed off all traces of previous finish with acetone, sanded to a smooth surface and consistant color, then applied several coats of varnish. I'm pleased with the results, and happier knowing if the plumbing under there leaks again, it's very unlikely to damage that wood.

-- Leon Sisson

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stampeder
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Response Posted - 04/18/2006 : 23:07:21

I replaced my under sink hardware last summer. My cabinetry was all dry and in good condition, so I figured it was better to endure the added time contorting and cuss'n then to R&R an entire cabinet.
Once the sink is out, there's ample room to manuever.

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StSimon
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298 Posts

Response Posted - 04/18/2006 : 23:12:50

I also took out the drawers and contorted to replace the old pump faucet with an electric pump and faucet. Well worth the expletives when it was done. Water on demand !!!

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Cate
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Response Posted - 04/19/2006 : 08:28:42

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by stampeder
 I replaced my under sink hardware last summer. My cabinetry was all dry and in good condition, so I figured it was better to endure the added time contorting and cuss'n then to R&R an entire cabinet.
Once the sink is out, there's ample room to manuever.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

As always good advice on this forum. I assume removing the sink requires going underneeath and detaching the hose and then prying it off??

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Scooter
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Response Posted - 04/19/2006 : 09:23:03

I have an 89 and I had 4 screws to remove the whole drawer frame. Pulled out the drawers then removed the frame. I removed it for 2 reasons. I had wiring work to do back there and one of the screws for the drawer frame was "loose" or pulled out. What I found was a rectangle hole cut out for the frame. The hole was not quite right and the bottom right screw did not have any "Meat" to bite into. Found half a hole for the screw. It was hitting dead air so the whole drawer assembly was hanging away from the bulkhead. Probably like that since built. I simply put a block of treated wood behind the hole and put the screw back in.

Removing the frame was nothing. No sealant just 4 screws. Removing that frame made the wiring work so much easier. My other concern was damaging the frame while doing contortions. My body weight could put pressure on the frame??? I do agree if water damage on the outside of the frame is a concern you could protect it like Leon says. Ours was in good enough condition (so far) that removal is easy. If ours was damaged I would redo the wood too. I like the easy removal so I will not likely seal the wood to the bulkhead. If anything gets in there I could remove it with 4 screws. Either way would work for me though.

Whatever floats your boat. (I love that phrase)

Remove the frame and make it easier on yourself. (If it's like mine was.)

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stampeder
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Response Posted - 04/20/2006 : 12:17:35

I have a 10 gallon holding tank under my sink, which sits next to a thru hull connected to my galley sink drain. A guest on board 'adjusted' my holding tank and in the process unwittingly dislodged the drain hose from under the sink, causing the sink drain hose to fall into the bilge below the thru hull fitting, which resulted in water gushing in via the sink drain hose.
We were ankle deep in water, at anchorage when we discovered the problem. We temporarily fixed it with duct tape.
The next day, back at the marina, I removed the drawers, opened the bottom hinged door below the sink, got on my back with one shoulder and one arm in the opening and replaced all the associated hardware. In my assesment before and after the job of replacing all fittings and hardware, I figured it was just as easy to contort and cuss as it was to remove the whole cabinet because to remove the cabinet, required some contorting too.
Removing the sink was perhaps the easiest part, three set screws that I could remove and replace with one hand.
I replaced all the fittings and parts under the sink and all parts associated with the thru hull fitting. I used stainless steel plumbing parts I found at the local hardware store...I think it cost less than $10. I used a small piece of galvanized strapping to secure the drain hose to the underside of the countertop so that it could not be bumped loose in the future - I did this because it is an area of fairly high use - and a good potential for a repeat

Edited by - stampeder on 04/20/2006 14:05:10

farrison
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Response Posted - 04/21/2006 : 21:01:41

Try gently prying on the sink itself. After contorting around under the sink and trying to reach the sink drain and faucet fittings, I inadvertantly pushed up on the sink drain hose and the whole sink pushed up and out of the counter top hole! Mine is an '82 and the sink was probably removed by one of the POs at some point. There were four small SS tabs welded to the sink at the factory that were intended to attach the sink to the counter, but I couldn't see that any screws had ever been used to hold it down. The tabs may have just been bent to hold the sink in. After pulling the sink up and loosening the drain hose, I removed the sink entirely and then had easy access to the faucet fittings underneith. Much easier.

Paul

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