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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

General Sailing Forum

interior, what to do?

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southern cross
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USA
123 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/03/2006 : 21:20:27

OK. I know this is not a Catalina question it is more of a "best way to attck a problem" question.

My buddy just sold his C-25 and we just received his 1982 Beneteau First 27 this past weekend. We have quickly begun working on the exterior and it is coming along very well. Here are some before and after shots. We compounded, waxed and polished the exterior. Then sanded the bottom and stripes. Today we painted the bottom and the top and bottom stripe, I think she is turning out very well. See what you think.

BEFORE

AFTER

This is our first time working on the exterior of a boat, I think we have done pretty well so (only 3 evenings of work so far

)

My question has to do with some interior work. I don't know if this will make any sense but I will try. The interior of this boat was originally done in white vinyl

on all of the interior walls. The vinyl has been pulled off to expose what looks like adhesive residue and some left over padding material. I am guessing there was some sort of thin padding material beneath the vinyl. We are planning on sanding off the padding residue and most of the high points of the adhesive residue. We are wondering about how to paint or cover the interior walls. My buddy does not want to cover the walls with carpet, we are thinking of painting the interior walls. (what kind of paint does one use?) Also, the interior wood and fiberglass that was not covered in vinyl are in great condition, then those areas meet the other areas. Any way of making this transition? Wood, plastic.

At this point we are looking for any suggestions that any of you might have.

Glad work is finally done on my C-25 but know I have someone elses boat to work on.

Puravida,
Zach

southern cross 1982 C-25
TR FK #2867

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 05/03/2006 : 21:36:23

Yup... That's the problem with Bennies! Sorry, I've got nuthin.

Nice work outside, tho... (The registration number is "H"??)

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 05/03/2006 21:38:48

takokichi
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USA
321 Posts

Response Posted - 05/03/2006 : 21:38:28

Nice work on the outside! (Its going to help you feel better about the inside) I bought an Evelyn 26 last fall. The interior was done up in white vinyl contact cemented to the hull and the overhead. It sounds similar to what you're facing. I tried many, many techniques to get the residue off. Ultimately, I found the only tool that would do a good job pulling the crap off was a grinder with a wire cup brush. After 40 or so hours of grinding, it was mostly done. The problem then became the fact that the contact cement residue I had sent flying everywhere in the boat was gummy and sticking to everything. Ultimately, I took a hose to it, then vacumed up the mess with a shop vac.

The surface that is left behind was coarse and not suitable for painting. I was going to replace the vinyl with carpet or other vinyl.

Talk to Duanne - he's done this job on another evelyn.

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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1893 Posts

Response Posted - 05/04/2006 : 00:32:43

Zach,

I'm pretty sure I know what you're talking about regarding interior upholstery fabric backed with thin padding, all stuck to the hull with contact cement. It's not just Beneteau, lots of brands chose that over a full molded hull liner. As for getting the old mess off, I don't have any better suggestions than takokichi -- rip, tear, scrape, wire brush, clean up with solvents and detergent. The exposed surface you describe is likely the 'rough' interior side of the molded hull.

For refinishing, I would definitely avoid duplicating the technique which is now causing you so much aggravation.

How about a two stage approach?

Stage One:
Once the exposed fiberglass is really, really clean, power sand down the roughest 10% or so off the peaks. Not trying to make it smooth or remove a lot of material, just even out the texture. Then fill the surface with a thin putty of white tinted epoxy resin and white micro balloons. Shoot for 90% or so fill. Sand that a bit, and see if the resulting texture is aesthetically tolerable. If so, finish with white tinted epoxy resin thickened just enough with coloidial(sp?) silica that it doesn't run real bad, but still self levels and leaves a slick surface. At that point you've got a very hard, nonporous, durable finish which won't encourage mold and mildew. You're welcome to stop there and go sailing.

Stage Two:
There's a name for this treatment, but it escapes my at the moment. Make some thin strips of a wood you both like and can afford. (Douglas Fir? Cedar? Oak?) Rip enough 1/2"x3/4" strips to provide a vertical furring strip every 12' to 18" on the ceiling (which on a boat is where the wall would be on land

). Glue these to the surface with epoxy or polyurethane adhesive. Due to the curvature of the hull, you'll likely need to hold them in place using similar ripped sticks wedged against the other side of the compartment while the adhesive sets. Then rip some 1-1/2"x3/8" strips long enough to span the horizontal dimension of the ceiling panel being covered. Starting from the top, screw these to the vertical furring strips with about 1/2" air gap between adjacent horizontal strips. Trim the length and ends of each one to fit as you go. Before trimming, finish the horizontal strips to your taste. (Sand smooth on one wide side, round that side's edges, maybe varnish.) Finish up with another vertical strip up each end to hide the quality of your end cuts. (Unless the fit is perfect, which it sure wouldn't be if I were doing it!

) This gives you a durable, attractive, very nautical treatment which provides excellent air circulation at the surface of the hull to prevent condensation build up, while at the same time being much nicer to touch than the bare skin of the hull. For a more detailed description of the procedure, see page 192 of Don Casey's "This Old Boat."

-- Leon Sisson

Edited by - on

tmhansen
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USA
397 Posts

Response Posted - 05/04/2006 : 01:31:04

A slight variation of Leon's Stage 1 idea that I have used only on a large piece that I could remove to the yard, was to spray a coating of gelcoat over the fiberglass. It came out with a nice eggshell texture, is easy to clean and durable. I have had epoxy turn yellow over time or with exposure to moderate sunlight.

Edited by - on

southern cross
Navigator

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123 Posts

Response Posted - 05/04/2006 : 14:20:08

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Dave Bristle
 Yup... That's the problem with Bennies! Sorry, I've got nuthin.

Nice work outside, tho... (The registration number is "H"??)
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Dave-
we got her from Annapolis and have not yet done the registration for NC. Still have yet to remove all of th eold numbers, new ones coming soon. We are raising the mast this saturday and hope to be able to race her in next weeks Wednesday night race. She is going to FLY.

Puravida,
Zach

Edited by - on

Ericson33
Admiral

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USA
892 Posts

Response Posted - 05/04/2006 : 15:45:56

There was a San Juan 24 that had the same problems witht the interior, Not vinyl but a cloth like liner that was backed with the same cheap contact cement. This owner grided the glue off with a wire brush on a drill, then sanded the hull down, and bought the interior paint from Lowes. Well almost everything this guy buys is from Lowes. You don't want to make the boat any heavier so I would not add epoxy or any kind of filler, Grind it down and paint it. I would use a exterior paint I would use a flat white and go ahead and add the nonskid sand to the paint. This way you can have some kind of texture on the surface. I used Interlux Polyurathane to paint the outside of our boat. Its about 40.00 per can (1)can should do it all for ya.

Edited by - on

Tanglefoot
1st Mate

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USA
76 Posts

Response Posted - 06/02/2006 : 09:45:33

Pinche Trabajo,

I found a pretty quick solution, sanding, yes, instead of having to sand to an extreme level finish. I found a product called " stone creations ", it is a spray on and finishes the interior with a textured finish. It is $9 a can and took about 15 cans on the interior, paint with a similiar base first, and then apply stone. Worked great, I could have sanded a bit more but there is only so much time in a day, thanks to all for input, I will post some before and after pictures, and the Howards-restore-a-finish rocks!

Thanks again,

Tanglefoot

Edited by - on

crcalhoon
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USA
303 Posts

Response Posted - 06/06/2006 : 10:33:13

I have painted two interiors and am working on number three now. Well, not right now, because it's raining, but I would be if it weren't.

1. 1976. Don't remember what paint I used, but did the work with foam brushes and it came out fine. Only kept the boat for two years so don't know about long term results.

2. 1983. Interlux Brightsides one part poly, blu-glo white, foam brushes. came out great. Kept the boat for six years, no signs of deterioration.

3. Currently. Bought a hundred dollars worth of same Interlux, plus flattening agent. Did first coat of V-berth area with foam brush. While at hardware store to get more brushes, found a new product, Krylon spray paint for plastics. "no priming, no sanding." O.K., I'll try it. finished V-berth, Quarter berth and area around sink with nine cans, @ $4.00 Have no idea how it will hold up, but having brush painted two in the past, rapidly lost interest in favor of the spray cans. They go on great and cover well. Two coats, most places, three in some. Interesting side note: This is a gloss paint, which is not what I wanted. However, there is enough rapidly drying overspray that in a confined area the paint is virtually self-flattening, and I am going to try it on the cabin sole to see if the overspray will give any non-skid quality. If not, I have plenty of Interlux, flattening agent and non-skid compound. Boy, do I. Having used the non-skid in the past, I'll have to say I don't like it. It is almost impossible to keep mixed while using, and comes out pretty streaky, at least for me.

Oh, and buy a good mask before spraying. I tried it with the $5.00 one I happened to have aboard and after about 6 seconds, went to get a good one. Also cover your hair and wear long sleeves. This paint is hard to get off, which gives me hope that it will hold up well. It certainly does on hair and skin.

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