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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Motor Bracket

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SailormanCGA72
1st Mate

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77 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/10/2006 : 08:23:10

I have a 1982 boat with the original single spring motor bracket. I noticed that the bracket is inset at the bottom about 3/16" and out at the top. Also, the bracket is attached to the transom with four bolts, but the bolts are not at the top or bottom of the bracket. In both cases, the bolts are in the next hole rather than being all the way out on the bracket. Does this make sense? I have ordered King StarBoard and will make a 1/2" backing plate on the outside and inside of the transom. I am thinking of mounting the bracket by using the outermost holes in the bracket. Any thoughts?

Steve S.
"Myot CynPat" 82 TRWK conversion Hull No. 3002

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 05/10/2006 : 09:03:56

IMHO: With the sandwich of backing plates, moving the bolts probably won't make a lot of difference... you'll be distributing the load over a lot more surface area anyway.

Dunno what size bolts you have, if you are concerned about strength with a new heavier motor, might go up a size. Either way, be sure to use good quality hardware.

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 05/10/2006 : 11:18:04

I agree with Clam... No need for new holes once you've snugged the bracket up to the two boards. Most of the load in forward gear is where the bottom of the bracket pushes in and the top pulls out, as you can see from the distortions on your setup. Using the top holes would have been better (without the plates), but Catalina may have chosen the holes based on the placement of the bolts inside the boat.

You may have seen the admonitions to round the corners and edges--particularly on the inside board, which meets a slightly concave surface such that the corners can put point-loads on the fiberglass. Starboard is extremely easy to work with normal wood tools.

Good luck!

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 05/10/2006 11:19:10

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 05/10/2006 : 18:03:18

I'm with them, use the same mounting holes. Its less work and it has functioned okay for the last 24 years.

What do you mean when you say that the bracket is inset 3/16"? Is it recessed through the gelcoat and into the fiberglass transmom?

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SailormanCGA72
1st Mate

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77 Posts

Response Posted - 05/10/2006 : 22:08:10

No, the bottom of the bracket has depressed the gelcoat. I can see no cracking, or crazed gelcoat. The transom sounds solid (no dead spots). It just doesn't look Kosher to me so that's why, while the boat is on the hard and easily accessible, I'll go and ahead and fix it. Then I'll have piece of mind for $35.

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 05/11/2006 : 09:18:05

You also indicated it had pulled out by about the same amount at the top... I'd say that's the reason for the indentation at the bottom--a large amount of the force was concentrated at the edge there. I'm guessing the nuts inside have small washers and upper ones have sunk into or pulled through the inner fiberglass. All of that will be taken care of by your starboard plates. (And still use fender washers under the nuts.)

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jaclasch
Navigator

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USA
104 Posts

Response Posted - 05/11/2006 : 22:45:41

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Dave Bristle
 

You may have seen the admonitions to round the corners and edges--particularly on the inside board, which meets a slightly concave surface such that the corners can put point-loads on the fiberglass.
Good luck!

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Something that works well to distribute the load against the concave surface is to cut a piece (the size of the backing plate) out of one of those little doorstep carpets which are thin and very tough and install it under the plate against the fiberglass.

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 05/12/2006 : 10:01:10

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by jaclasch
 Something that works well to distribute the load against the concave surface is to cut a piece (the size of the backing plate) out of one of those little doorstep carpets which are thin and very tough and install it under the plate against the fiberglass.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Good idea! It might even dampen some vibration, too. But I'd caution that you should re-tighten the bolts on a regular basis, since anything like that carpet will continue to compress a little for some time.

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