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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

inspection of swing keel pivot pin

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sfrank
Deckhand

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USA
17 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/30/2006 : 18:24:38

Can someone help me with information pertaining to the inspection of the swing pin on a 1978 25 catalina---Just bought the boat and before I put it in the water I was advised to inspect the pin and the cable. Any info would be appreciated..

Thanks

Steve

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 05/30/2006 : 20:58:56

Unless you can find out the age of the keel cable, replace it. It's a critical component and weakening due to corrosion may not be obvious to the naked eye. Frequent (every 2 years or so) replacement is especially critical in salt water.

Inspecting the swing keel pin involves supporting the front of the keel with a jack, unscrewing the (4) hinge bolts and lowering the keel enough to get the hinges off the pin. You're looking for loose fit, cracks, worn hinges, pin loose in keel etc. There are some discussion threads here that describe this process in some detail... especially the technique of using all-thread to lower the hinge and/or get things aligned so they go back together.

A search will turn 'em up.

That said, a must-buy is the 'Catalina 25 Owners Bible" from Catalina Direct. It has descriptions, drawings and parts lists of most everything you'll need to keep your boat in good shape.

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Greg S
Deckhand

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14 Posts

Response Posted - 05/30/2006 : 21:17:21

I'm in the process of repacing the "keel hanger casting kit", which I purched from Catalina Direct.
I have a question about the hole size in the keel.
The pivot pin is 1.000" and the hole in the keel is about 1.100" to 1.140". should I have an insert made or will this amount of play be ok for a few more years?

Thanks

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steephen
Navigator

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100 Posts

Response Posted - 06/05/2006 : 18:22:35

Swing Keel hanger and pin replacement.

1) Have the boat on jack stands and the keel winched all the way up (horizontal and parallel to the ground). The bottom of the keel could be two feet or so off the ground.
2) Crack the four bolts loose. Crib up below the keel with enough timber to allow a hydraulic house jack to sit between the cribbing and the keel. The jack I used was less than a foot tall, and the “meat tenderizer” points grabbed the keel very well. Have on hand wooden shingles to use as shims to fine tune the cribbing.
3) Alternate wedging the cribbing and loosening the bolts until a stout block adjacent to the jack will support the weight of the keel. No threaded rods are required, and the bulk of the keel is still in the slot, so the keel can’t keel over. It is only down about six or eight inches when the whole pin and hanger fitting assembly becomes exposed. One can crib the cable end of the keel to feel more secure.
4) I bored out the wobbly 1” hole with an inch and a quarter bit (1.25”), and a jig of my own making, as follows. Screw (no glue) four rectangles of ¾” plywood together; the four pieces are maybe four inches by fifteen. Notice that the area around the keel pin hole is pretty flat, and perpendicular to the pin bore. The bit I used was six inches long, purchased at an industrial machine tool shop. When making the jig, keep the wood screws away from the center. Bore a hole through the center of the jig on a drill press. You should now be in possession of a dis-assemblable (?) jig about four by fifteen, and three inches thick, with a 1.25” hole through the center.
5) Align the jig with the keel pin hole, and secure it with two large “C” clamps. Use a one inch dowel to get the jig hole aligned as much as possible to the keel hole. Then start drilling, using plenty of cutting oil. The jig will keep the bit aligned with, and parallel to, the old pin hole. Truth is, you’re not removing that much metal. When the drill chuck reaches the plywood, unscrew one thickness (3/4”) of plywood, re-align and re-clamp, and continue. I went through the keel in about ten minutes.
6) Get the keel pin, spacer sleeve and hanging brackets from Catalina Direct; new bolts come with it and the whole kit is around a hundred bucks. The outside diameter of the sleeve will be the same as the new bore; the pin is one inch diameter (as is the original), and the sleeve wall thickness is an eighth inch. You will have to carefully measure the keel thickness at the pin hole, and have the hanging brackets cut down to size, as they come larger (thicker) than needed. The machine shop at my local community college took this project on as a student task, for the price of two large pizzas.
7) Hammer the new sleeve into the newly bored hole, using something like BoatLife as both lubricant and adhesive. Reassembly is the reverse of taking down the keel. Jack it up slowly, fit the bolts, and tighten and jack alternately. I’m still trying to find out the correct torque, or if that is important. The kit comes with blue locking sauce for the bolts.
8) Since the keel is horizontal when you start, it does not advance towards the bow as you unbolt it; thus no need for threaded rods. My brother and I did this whole thing in one day, not including having the blocks milled at the tech school. I still have the bit for sale at half price; since it only drilled the one hole it’s still pretty sharp.

Stephen Z on "Little Wing"

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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.