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 Head: repair or replace?
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Paul
1st Mate

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57 Posts

Initially Posted - 06/13/2006 :  07:27:33  Show Profile
I'm back, with an extension to my earlier post about flushing the toilet. Sparing you the details, I've determined that my Wilcox/Crittenden needs new valves.

The maintenance kit for the Wilcox is $65. A new Jabco head is currently $100 (after rebate). Opinions or experiences are welcome on which option to choose.

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djn
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1561 Posts

Response Posted - 06/13/2006 :  07:39:22  Show Profile
Hi Paul the PO of my boat replaced the old head with the Jabco. I am haveing stink problems at the moment so I might be a littl bias. I'd go with a port a potty if I was at your stage. That being said, the little Jabco seems like a fine head. It is tight and works well. Good luck with your decision. Cheers.

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Justin
Admiral

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502 Posts

Response Posted - 06/13/2006 :  08:31:06  Show Profile  Visit Justin's Homepage
I would just replace the head. That is what I did and I bought the Jabsco on sale at West Marine for around $100, probably where you are looking. My boat had the original 24 year old head and the pump did not work at all. For $35 more you know the head will work, it will be easier to install, probably cleaner, plus it's brand new. It was very simple to replace.

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stampeder
Master Marine Consultant

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1608 Posts

Response Posted - 06/13/2006 :  09:42:03  Show Profile
Often overlooked in plumbing in general, is that if you have one problem that you can locate, you are likely to have another problem that you haven't located because you stopped looking when you found the first or most obvious problem.
Best solution with plumbing in general, is to replace the whole thing, or as much of it as possible.

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djn
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1561 Posts

Response Posted - 06/13/2006 :  10:49:30  Show Profile
Hi All, anyone here have a problem with the origanal holding tanks leaching stink?

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Stu Jackson C34
Admiral

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844 Posts

Response Posted - 06/13/2006 :  13:01:24  Show Profile
Paul

The Jabsco is one of the least recommended units by Peggie Hall, author of THE book about boat odors and heads. My expereience with Jabscos on other boats indicate that the are pretty inefficient.

If your Wilcox head is a head mate model, I recommend that you simply replace it. We have one, and it works just fine (eight years). I went the way of rebuilding, then bought a whole new pump and finally got a new head, which is, if and when you find a good price, a heck of a lot easier.

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farrison
Navigator

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USA
166 Posts

Response Posted - 06/13/2006 :  16:20:58  Show Profile
Paul;

Now that everyone has told you replace the unit, here is a second opinion. I have an '82 with the same Wilcox-Crittenden head. When I got the boat, it had been sitting for two years in dry storage with rainwater that had come and compleatly filled the holding tank and the bowl of the head and frozen in both (boat purchased in December, in Utah). But after thawing and draining, the only problem was a little leakiing arround the packing on the pump shaft. Before I shelled out the $63, I pulled the entire unit to see what could cost that much in the way of seals and valves. There is a weighted, rubber flapper in the bottom of the pump shaft cylinder. I cleaned and lubed that and put it back. I unscrewed the pump piston from the shaft and lubed it with silicon grease and reinstalled it. The pacing arround the shaft was replaced with Teflon packing from Home Depot for a few dollars, no leaks now. On the back of the pump is a rectangular box that contains the valving for the fresh water intake and outlet to the head bowl. This is accessed by six SS screws (one of mine was corroded and the head broke off). Under the cover is a single piece of what seems to be ureathane, with a rubber insert, with two circular pieces that swing back and forth as valves against the valve seats. The upper one (from intake hose)has a spring that holds it in place against the seat. Mine was inside the body, but dislocated, which may have kept it from working properly. I cleaned it up and glued the urethane piece back into place with silicone sealant taking care to make sure the spring was relocated properly. I also sealed the back cover back on the body with silicone seal and gently tighened the six screws. (Be carefull not to over-tighten and break the ears on the plastic back.) The head now works great, no leaks and the cost was a few bucks at Home Depot. I did also pull out the shaft for the little pump-in/pump-out lever because it was corroded at the o-ring seal and built it up with two-part epoxy before replacing. I lubed the shaft with silicone grease and have no leaks there either.

Bottom line, pull, clean and lube it before you drop a bunch of money on new valve kits or new unit. Make sure your holding tank is empty or it will run back out the hose from the head, as the connector has a one-way seal in it right at the exit.

Good luck

Paul

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Jmurfy
Navigator

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USA
176 Posts

Response Posted - 06/14/2006 :  22:18:26  Show Profile
DJN, my holding tank stinks on occasion in my '85 standard rig.

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Douglas
Master Marine Consultant

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1595 Posts

Response Posted - 06/17/2006 :  23:00:55  Show Profile  Visit Douglas's Homepage
For those having stink problems. On the last flush befor departing the boat try flushing the head with fresh water fron a jug. Seems salt water promotes the criters making stink in the pipes. As for the tank how about adding some poo juice from the local RV shope.

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 06/18/2006 :  10:21:39  Show Profile  Visit Frank Hopper's Homepage
I keep trying to figure out a joke here with "Texas Hold'm" as the punch line but I can't seem to get'r done.

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oldsalt
Admiral

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USA
578 Posts

Response Posted - 06/20/2006 :  18:31:42  Show Profile
I'd replace the entire head with another Headmate. Mine's going on it's 23rd year and after a single rebuild a couple of years ago (my ex father in law, an otherwise fine gentleman, clogged it mercylessly with an incredible amount of the very worst kind of "matter"), I'd never go through that cr*ppy job again since the rebuild kit is around 60% the cost of a new unit.

Flushing the head with fresh water when leaving the boat is a great way to eliminate the beasties that die in the system which gives off hydrogen sulfide gas. I also flush some of that powdered blue head deoderant into the system at the same time.

I've never had even the slightest head or piping odor on Silvergirl probably because when she was new, I replaced the thin waste hoses with extremely thick, industrial, double walled hose with steel mesh between the walls that is normally used for petroleum products. It's all in the way you install the system and the materials you use.

I also cut a six inch Beckson plate into the holding tank in order to clean and flush out the system once a season and have had absolutely no holding tank odor ever.

Since I often sail pretty far offshore I get to either discharge directly overboard or pump out frequently. If not, I pump out as often as possible at my marina's pump out station.

At my marina, they're very strict about not dumping a porta-potty into the toilets. They catch you once and your out of there for good.

Think what you want but I came agree with that policy after the management and boaters had to deal with the incredible mess and stench that too many inconsiderate "dumpers" left behind them in the shoreside johns.

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Paul
1st Mate

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57 Posts

Response Posted - 06/21/2006 :  09:18:12  Show Profile
Thanks, everyone.

I removed the plate where the two fresh water hoses connect and found the 'double-flapper' valve to be in good shape but coated with a layer of slime. A simple cleaning with a dry paper towel, and the toilet works.

I must admit that I wasn't paying attention when I removed the valve. Only after it was free from the unit did I realize that the valve's design works in only 1 of the 4 possible ways in which it fits. Yup, it took me four attempts to get it right.

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Paul
1st Mate

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57 Posts

Response Posted - 06/28/2006 :  09:02:01  Show Profile
And one more thing; never assume that the previous owner emptied the holding tank before selling it.

I was getting some back-flow that I thought meant the choker valve was giving up. Turns out, my tank was simply filled to the brim with last season's stuff.

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