Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
On our first shakedown sail of the year I put some downward pressure on the tiller and heard a "crack". Returned to the marina without incident and took the tiller home for inspection. There is dark deteriorated wood through the centerline of the three bolt holes. Beyond the forwardmost hole, a crack extends 2 inches on a downward diagonal. I remember a post advising to clean it out and load it up with epoxy, but I did a search without finding it. Will that work? Is it safe? Should I bother? If so, low long could I expect it to last and/or should I order a new one?
Hi Dan, I had the same thing happen but could not afford the new tiller at this point so I brought it home and cleaned out the crack and filled it full of west system epoxy. Before I did that I sanded the whole thing down to bare clean wood and epoxied the whole thing. It looks like new. Cheers. p.s., don't lean on it LOL
I had a tiller with what sounded like similar damage - so I drilled out the rotted parts & filled the holes with epoxy, drilled new bolt holes in the epoxy, wrapped about 40ft of wire tightly around the end, then epoxied the wire to the tiller. And generally cleaned up the tiller with new varnish.
The first time I used my 'repaired' tiller it failed in spectacular fashion.
I'm too embarrased to tell you what I used as an emergency tiller. I bought a new one from CD, they're inexpensive and they do look good. West Marine also has them at comparable prices.
Thanks! I'll respect the wisdom of the consensus. It's only $59 (or $89 for the deluxe) from CD. I have probably worked at least that much to clean out, epoxy and clamp the old one, so that we can enjoy a (light) sail while waiting for shipment. I plan to cut down 1 inch or so to offset new holes. BTW, while working on it, I noticed a 3/8 hole running thru the centerline from the point where the handle curves, to about the point of the first bracket hole, 8+ inches. What's that for?
Smart move Dan, I nursed an old tiller for years putting more varnish, sandpaper,and time into the project than the cost of a new one..."too soon dumb, too late smart"
Dan your discription of the location of the 3/8" hole could be a tiller extender connection point as Sparky suggests. On my tiller the extender connection point is 2" back from the forward end of the stick.
There is a posibility that your PO had an Autohelmn. The connection point for that unit is 18" forward of the pintle.
when the Catalina factory sent me a free tiller they also included the stainless brackets which connect it to the rudder. They were a lot heavier than the old one. I think that CD sells these heavy duty brackets, you may want to see what they cost
I connected my ST2000 tiller pilot 16" forward of the pintle centerline for faster response time
Good luck, and good move in getting a new tiller. Keep the old one as a spare when you are refinishing the new one in a couple of years.
Be sure to epoxy all of your new screw and bolt holes too
Thanks again, and also for your encouragement. Besides ordering the deluxe model from CD, the Admiral prompted me to order the tiller cover. Their's goes all the way back to cover the top of the rudder and keeps all the bolts out of the weather, not just the stick.
Val and Frank, A PO probably did have an Autohelm. I found wiring to a connector in the starboard coaming pocket when trying to figure out the clipped spaghetti behind the switch panel.
Dennis, I just read your story! (Missed it while in ABQ). I'm sorry you had such trouble and let me congratulate you for your positive attitude! My little trials seem insignificant compared to what you went through. You "actually had a good time"! Man!
My tiller had a very similar failure mode a couple of years ago. I wrapped the tiller with an old dock line and it got us through the race and back to the dock.
I ordered another one for $80 or so, but it took 3 weeks to show up.
I took the old one home and epoxied (West/Gugeon) and glassed the piss out of it. (We were racing the boat 3 days a week and were not willing to miss the races. Yes, we took a flag that year.) The repair held up well and now the old tiller sits in the basement for when the new one breaks.
Definately go with the improved CD side plates.
While you are at it, replace the pintles and gudgeons with the improved CD ones. The plastic bearing makes for very smooth rudder action.
Just an update. One week and waiting for shipment. Glad I epoxied it, we had a nice sail.
Maybe I sanded it too much because it was a very snug fit to the rudder. I drilled a 1/4" hole from the top down through, behind the middle hole and bolted it with 1" washers to strengthen the laminates. Beside cutting it down and drilling new holes, I also drilled a pair of new offset holes in the plates (center hole)to emulate the improved model that CD offers. The plates are very heavy duty stainless. Glad I have a drillpress! When the new tiller arrives and we remove the old one again, my son will weldfill the unused holes to make it pretty.
Hi Matt, I replaced my Pinles and Grudgeons with the CD version with the plastic bushings and the rudder has slop in it. It is not a snug fit like I expected. Is this normal? Cheers.
Absolutely order a new one but don't throw out the old.
I did as someone else mentioned, West Systems to but it back together then glassed with matting over the whole thing. Don't put it in the garage waiting for the next failure though. Put it in the boat where it will be there when you need it !!!
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.