Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Capri25</i> <br />...I play the travler up and down in the puffs to keep the boat flat.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Ya, but you have a real traveler in the Capri...
When we had our San Juan 24 the traveler was ontop of the cabin top. this setup was the worst. Double handing the boat was hard and having 4 people on the boat was almost impossible, this was the main reason for selling the San Juan and buying the Capri 25. I have looked at the Catalina 25's here at the club, and I think having the end sheeting on the boom a good thing, can't you just move the traveler down to the cockpit seat and add a t-track, or is the storage hatch in the way?
I was up at our club last week walking the docks and counting the Catalina's we have. We have 6 Capri 25's, 3 Capri 22's, 6 Catalina 25's, 7 Catalina 27's and about 30 Catalina 22's.
I think most racers will agree that for performance, mid-boom sheeting is best because it gives the best purchase from the traveler. I believe the rope and gas lockers prevent a track from being run across the seat-tops at the transom, which would increase purchase somewhat. A cabin-top traveler, my personal favorite on most cruising boats, would impede the pop-top that most C-25s have. Anyway, any changes like those make the boat class-illegal (for those who care)--I don't know whether it would affect the PHRF for general racing...
The worst part about end-boom sheeting to the transom for non-racers is the decaptiation of the helmsman.
I have a super furl on my boat, it uses a halyard to hoist the sail, and the manufacture sugest useing a fairlead about an 1 or 2 inches from the roller at the mast head, to keep the line from getting halyard from getting wraped up when you furl. I personal prefer a differnt style of furler, ties up my halyard from other uses. but what I have for now.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Dave Bristle</i> <br />I think most racers will agree that for performance, mid-boom sheeting is best because it gives the best purchase from the traveler. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Actually mid boom requires more purchase because the lever arm is shorter. The reason racers prefer it is because the mainsheet controls the leech tension over a wider arc and thereby provides for better control of the mainsail shape. That leaves the boom vang to deal with off wind leech tension where it is not adjusted much. We need to adjust our leech tension with the boomvang over a much broader arc and that is why many of us have replaced the 3:1 stock vang with our old mainsheets at 4:1, and of course taken the opportunity to upgrade our mainsheet hardware. As an aside, there are also many of use that question whether our booms can handle the load of cabintop sheeting and worry about companionway sheeting as well. The load transfer from the leech to the mainsheet is fairly straight on the stock set up. Moving it to mid boom relies on the boom being able to transfer the downward force at the mid boom out to the clew with out bowing or worse yet breaking. I have not heard of a boom failure but rest assured that on boats where midboom sheeting is designed in the midboom loads are figured into the selection of the boom section.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by fhopper@mac.com</i> <br /><blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Dave Bristle</i> <br />I think most racers will agree that for performance, mid-boom sheeting is best because it gives the best purchase from the traveler. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Actually mid boom requires more purchase because the lever arm is shorter.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Perhaps I misspoke... By "purchase" I meant the flattening force gained by the lower angle of the downward pull. If I move my sheeting forward, maybe I should sister a 2x4 to the boom to beef it up a little... (A little Cetol and it'll look great.)
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.