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Trailering - Ah Ha!

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britinusa
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5404 Posts

Initially Posted - 06/18/2006 : 08:32:15

Peggy and I were just discussing the trailering issue we have experienced hauling out the boat every trip... The boat pulls away from the bow roller near the winch by a couple of inches.

We drain the ballast(air pump) before hauling the boat onto the trailer so that the bow will get up onto the trailers bow bunk, then winch the boat up to the bow roller. The Winch strap is now under really high tension.

But as soon as we pull the boat out of the water, the bow is about 2" away from the roller.

Finally figured out what is going on.

When the bow is on the bow bunk, the stern of the boat is still afloat. But when we haul out, the stern lowers onto the main trailer hull bunks, ie. it drops!

So the whole boat pivots on the bow bunk, the mast raising stem on the trailer tongue does not move, so the winch strap must get even more tension and stretch/ roll tighter to allow the bow to raise up and aft.

Ha!

Theoretical solution... Build a V-bunk from the trailer cross beam up to the bow bunk to help get the bow onto the bunk without draining the ballast. Leave the ballast valve open.
Now some of the water will drain out (as the bow has risen onto the bow bunk which is just at the waterline.) and will leave an air space at the front of the tank and the water in the stern of the tank.
Give the tank a couple of minutes to drain then winch up the boat to the bow roller.
Now the stern should already be lower due to the water ballast weight and so it will pivot less during haul out.

Whatcha think guys?

paul

Joint Decision. (Sold)
PO C250WB 2005 Sail # 841.

Moved up to C34 Eximius

Updated August 2015

Edited by - on

Tom Potter
Master Marine Consultant

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1913 Posts

Response Posted - 06/18/2006 : 09:33:52

Paul, I have the same problem with the couple inches space between the bow and the front trailer roller. I know my situation is different somewhat because of the wing keel. However I feel a lot of my problems are caused by steep ramps. Last time I pulled out I wet the trailer pads by dunking the trailer, then pulled the trailer up again and took a bar of soap and scrubbed the pads. The goal here was to make the boat slide on the pads easier while I was winching her up. I cover all the areas that make contact with the hull even the keel rest. The soap really helps the boat slide on the trailer. When I pulled up there were a couple inches between the bow and front roller as usual. I kept a good deal of tension on the trailer strap, and only within a couple miles down the road the boat had pulled up nice and tight against the front roller. I had to tighten the trailer strap again. I was quite surprised that that big ole thing would "slide forward" even with my stern strap over the boat and secured to the trailer. I feel the soap really helped.

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Dkn420
Captain

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298 Posts

Response Posted - 06/18/2006 : 10:10:05

I have the same problem with the boat not getting to the bow bunks, and we have a very steep ramp at Lake Oroville, so I would imagine it is the ramp grade that is the cause...I only have a couple of miles to trailer so I don't worry about it...will try the soap next time...Dan #727

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atgep
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1009 Posts

Response Posted - 06/18/2006 : 10:24:42

I have observed my whole trailer bending when cranking on the winch. My trailer does not have pads and the boat is stuck wherever it winds up.

I know where the boat has to be to get the tounge weight right and missing that by a few inches is no good. When recovering the boat, I will unbolt the trailer mast and slide it forward a few inches. That way, when the boat starts coming out of the water, It winds up where it needs to be. I then move the mast back and the boat is secure. It ads a few minutes, but is the only way for me to handle a steep ramp. If I am pulling the boat to drag 2 miles to the house, I don't worry. I only do this for road trips.

Tom.

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jking
Navigator

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110 Posts

Response Posted - 06/18/2006 : 12:42:59

I have had the same problem, and one more. On my last trip from lake to storage lot, the bow shifted to port ssuc that the bow eye on the boat 'jumped' OUTSIDE of the metal bracket that holds the two trailer bow stops. I had to unbolt the mast carrier, and move it forward to allow the boat to be repositioned. I promptly replaced the bracket with a comventional 4" bow roller from WM.

Any suggestions on how to keep this from happening again?

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bren737
Captain

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291 Posts

Response Posted - 06/20/2006 : 15:35:42

I 'dry-slip' my boat so am pretty familiar with this. It definitely seems to depend on boat weight and/or ramp angle.

My normal ramp at the lake is very steep. I can have the bow tight to the V-pads at the winch with the bow on the roller and as soon as it comes out of the water the boat will slide back. The only way to avoid the 'gap' is to pull the boat out of the water so that the ballast valve is clear of the water and let all of the water drain out (at least as much WILL drain at that angle). Then I close the valve, back the boat in again and once again tighten the winch strap. It will not slide back a second time. However, as this is pretty time consuming and our ramps are usually busy, I only do this if I'm going to break the boat down for a long tow.

When I go to the coast, where the ramp is shallow, I can cinch it up tight to the stops and pull her out once and she'll stay put.

However, when I tow long-haul, the boat will walk backward on the trailer pretty substantially. The solution for me was to use a system of line (or straps) run from the bow cleat to bow cleat, under the trailer, to keep downward tension on the bow roller. Seems to have taken care of the problem.

Edited by - on

Tom Potter
Master Marine Consultant

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1913 Posts

Response Posted - 06/20/2006 : 18:18:49

Bren,
Its odd the different ways ours boat act when being trailered. Yours walks back and mine walks forward. Chalk it up to another one of those WB-vs-WK things.

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bren737
Captain

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291 Posts

Response Posted - 06/20/2006 : 19:53:43

Tom,

That is strange. . . in thinking about it a bit, I wonder if it has something to do with adjustments to the bunk boards/jack pads. I remember seeing a 250 WK at the dealer where I bought 'Ruah' and it appeared to me to sit 'tail-high' on the pads. The 'tail-high' position might cause a 'forward push' as the trailer bounces down the road. Adjusting the ride angle might take care of the problem. Too, the ride angle may be a result of the tongue weight, wherein, too much causes the hitch/bumper to squat, causing it to ride 'tail high.'

Conversely, on my trailer, if I moved the vertical winch winch mount forward a bit (allowing the boat to ride more forward on the bunk boards) it may be enough to allow the boat to ride 'lower' in the bunks, eliminating the backward movement as she bounces on the road.

All in all, I don't think it's that much of a problem, just more an annoyance.

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ekremer
Deckhand

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19 Posts

Response Posted - 06/20/2006 : 22:18:19

My routine is to get the bow eye as close to the front of the trailer as possible, secure the boat and mast for trailering, then drive a short distance, preferably down a slight grade, then stop very quickly. This helps the boat slide foreward the last inch or two, after which the straps can be tightned prior to continuing the trip. This has worked well for me for many years.

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britinusa
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5404 Posts

Response Posted - 08/05/2006 : 06:59:22

Update.
When we pulled the boat on our latest trip, we left the WB full, pulled the boat right up so that the bow was touching the rubber stops by the winch, then pulled the boat out allowing the WB to drain before leaving the ramp.

Still get the big gap reappear as we pull the boat, it is definitely pivoting on the bow bunk.

When we were at the deprep area I noticed the bottom of the boat was not even touching the bow bunk (I could get my hand between the hull and the top of the bunk. Didn't keep it there

)
(We moved the cabin contents fwd to balance the load.)

So... The boat is pivoting on the bow bunk but then settling on the main bunks, the bow bunk could be too high. Lowering the bow bunk would seem to be ok, but then the main bunks need to be repositioned to raise the stern/lower the bow.

Whatcha think? Should I lower the bow bunk and/or fiddle with the main bunks?

Paul.

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Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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2980 Posts

Response Posted - 08/05/2006 : 07:38:14

My experience is the same as Tom's... when soaping the bunk boards, the boat will creep forward to the bow chock within a few miles when the bow eye strap is tensioned well. A short stop to firm it up does the trick.

No question that the steeper the ramp, the more gap. If pads or bunk boards don't allow slippage... the boat doesn't move.

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britinusa
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Response Posted - 08/05/2006 : 08:12:39

Soaping the bunks sounds a lot easier than moving them around!

Do you rub hard soap or liquid soap into the bunks?

Paul

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Tom Potter
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Response Posted - 08/05/2006 : 09:39:35

Paul, I use a bar of soap, wet the pads first and then scrub the pads with the soap bar until you see the soap on the pads. Real impressed with the results. Like Arlyn said, "the boat will creep forward to the bow chock within a few miles".

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