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Hoyt Jib Boom Install

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weluvlife
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Initially Posted - 06/30/2006 : 17:36:43

Hello everyone,

I just received a Forespar Hoyt self tacking jib boom for a friend. I plan on installing it for him this week. Do any of you have ideas for me on the mounting of the pedestal to the deck? The deck is obviously curved and the underside of the boom pedestal is flat.
Not sure how to get a piece of wood carved down to exactly match the curvature of the boat. I thought of using a piece of 1/2" thick rubber, hoping that it would squish down enough in the middle to take up the gap on the outside edges.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Mark Eichman
Lake Don Pedro,CA
www.lakedonpedrosailingclub.org
'86 c25 TR, SK

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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1893 Posts

Response Posted - 06/30/2006 : 22:47:59

Mark, <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">The deck is obviously curved and the underside of the boom pedestal is flat. Not sure how to get a piece of wood carved down to exactly match the curvature of the boat... Any ideas?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">How about an extremely strong plastic shim which precisely fills the gap between both parts?

Here's how I'd go about filling the gap.
<ul><li>Plan on your custom fit shim being about 1/2" thick at its thinnest point (the centerline of the crowned deck) for strength.</li>
<li>Drill at least two of the bolt holes into the deck -- maybe the center fore and aft ones.</li>
<li>Find something to shim the fixture up level. A variety of things would work. Toothpaste tube caps, cut down wine corks, short pieces of tubing around the mounting bolts, etc. Fit two to four of these under the fixture at least 1/2" in from the edge. The idea is for the two to four first bolts to pull down against these temporary props, and hold the fixture securely in exactly the location and position where you want it to end up.</li>
<li>Once you've prepared all that (2-4 bolts & holes, 2-4 shims), tape down a sheet of wax paper or plastic wrap on the deck where the fixture will be installed. Be sure it extends several inches beyond the edge of the fixture.</li>
<li>Similarly, attach a sheet of wax paper or plastic film to the bottom of the fixture.</li>
<li>With the whole thing temporarily assembled and positioned the way you want it to end up, mix up some epoxy thickened with fibers and something to keep it from running, such as fumed silica ("Cab-O-Sil" or similar). don't forget to wax or grease the bolts! If you don't you'll have a miserable time getting them back out!</li>
<li>Shove the epoxy mush into the gap under the part between the two layers of waxpaper or plastic. Don't try to fill the entire void -- just shoot for creating a complete rim of filler all the way around without gaps. A nice touch is to smooth and form the outer rim of the filler by dragging a spoon or tongue depressor around the edge of the part being mounted. It's a lot easier to shape the epoxy now than it will be after it sets.</li>
<li>Once that first application of epoxy putty has set up, unbolt and lift off the fixture and top layer of film. This would also be a good time to remove your original shim pillars if it's practical to do so now. If not, they can be removed later, or even left in permanently. Mix up another batch of filler, and pack it into the central cavity of the hard rim of filler. Try to get the quantity just right, or slightly over filled.</li>
<li>With a fresh layer of film over the second batch of mush, use the part to force the top surface down level, and squeeze out any excess.leave the part in place as an upper mold while the filler cures.</li>
<li>After the second application of filler hardens, remove your new custom fitted shim. Peel or sand away the paper or plastic film from the molded part. Trim and smooth the edges and any other irregularities with sandpaper, either by hand or power, or both.</li>
<li>You now have another opportunity to remove any shim material you don't want to become part of the finished product. Fill any resulting voids with thickened epoxy.</li>
<li>Test fit the shim as you go, so as to catch and fix any problems as soon as possible.</li>
<li>When you've had enough of filling and sanding, drill any remaining bolt holes, and paint at least the surfaces which will be exposed to sunlight, or otherwise visible.</li>
<li>Bolt the whole thing together with a toothpick thickness of silicone sealant or similar, top and bottom, to form a stress distributing pad, and to seal the bolt holes.</li></ul>
-- Leon Sisson

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 07/02/2006 : 12:40:57

No need for any other replies! Leon always does it right.

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weluvlife
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166 Posts

Response Posted - 07/06/2006 : 17:38:28

Hi Leon!

Just finished reading your generous contribution in response to my deck hardware mounting question. Thank you very much. I plan on following your instructions to a tee!

Again, you have been so very helpful.

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weluvlife
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166 Posts

Response Posted - 07/06/2006 : 17:50:30

Hi Leon,

The epoxy you mention; what label would I be looking for at West Marine or the hardware store? The fibers you suggest; Are these fiberglass fibers? The "Cab-o-sil"; Is this also at West Marine?

Thanks,

Edited by - on

Don B
Captain

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317 Posts

Response Posted - 07/06/2006 : 20:09:13

I'm usually just a lurker and don't like my computer, but damn, Leon just continues to amaze me.

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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1893 Posts

Response Posted - 07/07/2006 : 00:52:20

Don B,

Thank you for your kind words. It's good to know someone besides me reads what I post from time to time.

Mark E,<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">The epoxy you mention; what label would I be looking for at West Marine or the hardware store? The fibers you suggest; Are these fiberglass fibers? The "Cab-o-sil"; Is this also at West Marine?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Ok, here's a bit more detailed info. There are several major brands of epoxy resin and associated supplies which are widely available and well suited to boat repairs and modifications. I happen to prefer the WEST line of products (no direct connection to West Marine, but available there). The Gougeon Brothers offer a very complete and integrated line of products. They also provide unequaled customer support. If you have a question or problem when using their products, they will talk you through it with amazing expertise and patience.

When I said "...mix up some epoxy thickened with fibers and something to keep it from running,..." I had in mind milled fiberglass or cotton microfibers (WEST#403). Although obviously very different materials, they're both short, strong fibers, maybe 1/16" long. I've even used clothes dryer lint when I needed fiber filler and didn't want to stop work until I could buy the commercially packaged version. It makes for a rather stringy mixture, but the tensile strength is great! When working with short fibers, and especially fiberglass, be sure to wear a tight fitting quality respirator. Asbestos, cigarette smoke, and coal dust are down right benign compared to airborne fiberglass!

I mentioned "Cab-O-Sil" by name, because fiberglass professionals will immediately understand what you're asking for, even if they don't have that brand on hand. Several other additives will work just as well or better (WEST#406).

A brief aside here, just in case you're vague on the purpose of these additives. The fibers add strength and reduce the likelihood of stress cracks developing in the finished part under hard use. The fibers don't actually prevent the liquid epoxy from slumping and running. And if you don't see slumping and running epoxy as a problem, picture a hyperactive toddler with an open jar of honey headed for your best (formal occasions only) carpeting and furniture, only much worse (at least honey washes out).

The powdered additives serve to increase the viscosity of the epoxy while you're working it, in addition to increasing the strength and hardness of the finished product. There's nothing magic about the name "Cab-O-Sil". There are at least two WEST powders (WEST#404 & #406) which do the same thing just as well or better.

In the time since I started buying my epoxy in gallons, the WEST product line has gone from obscurity to main stream. The local Ace Hardware now stocks it. Check out [[url="http://www.westsystem.info/inpu.html"]WEST's website[/url]] and product literature. They're serious about providing technical info.

And while I'm providing more detail, I had some additional thoughts on preparing your job for the application of epoxy. Obviously it's very important the epoxy not stick to things you don't mean for it to stick to. How about starting by drilling for at least three bolts, and installing them with little compression bushings made of flexible hose. Trim the 1/2" or so pieces of hose as flat as you can on the ends to improve sealing. When assembling things for the last time prior to applying epoxy, grease the bolts and hose sleeves, and wax or grease the fitting and deck under it. This may add a bit of cleanup to the whole job, but cleaning off wax or grease is a lot easier than removing cured epoxy from where you don't want it!

Happy mixing, smearing, and sanding!

-- Leon Sisson

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weluvlife
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Response Posted - 07/07/2006 : 08:47:37

Leon, people like you go a long way to make this forum an invaluable tool for us sailors!

Your explanation is very clear. I fully understand now.

Thank you!

Mark

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Dave Bristle
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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 07/07/2006 : 08:50:53

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Dave Bristle
 No need for any other replies! Leon always does it right.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
...and then he replies, with more wisdom!

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