Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Ok, I have been lurking and thinking on this. There are a few "put a traveler across the cabintop" tips and threads. The main issue seems to be complexity and pop-top interference. Here is what am thinking (this is going to be cumbersome since I do not have a proper term to use). Rig a "upside-down V" mainsheet to two points on either side of the sea hood, just forward enough to fit a dodger between the blocks and the winches/cleats. I found this picture (imagine a block at the top attached to the boom). I have seen versions of this on the cabintop, just could not find a picture.
PROS:<ul><li>Simpler and cheaper to build and install</li><li>Would allow the pop-top to open by easing the mainsheet</li><li>would allow a connected dodger and bimini all the way to the back of the boat</li></ul> CONS:<ul><li>Cannot sheet in tight (not an issue for cruising)</li><li>The usual issues related to mid-boom sheeting</li><li>Would require a longer mainsheet</li></ul>
I have a buddy that did that on his oday, except he mounted them on the cabin coaming. No need for a traveller anymore with that set up. longer mainsheet....line is cheap.
This is a mod that you can build rather cheaply and if it doens't work use the parts for something else. It does take a bit of time to get the tweaking down, which line acts as a traveller in what conditions etc. (after a broad reach to a run I believe the two lines switch roles. you lose only a little bit and its easy to undo..
go for it? well, I didn't say I was going to <u>do</u> it. I said was thinking about it.. Let's see, I have a pile of teak in my garage and a new battery charger in its box.
Question, though: what are the two lines? I always assumed that there was a single mainsheet that went up and down with a single tail.
There's a thread about this somewhere in the archives. I have no clue what would be a relevant word to search on, but I remember the discussion. Somebody -- or somebodies -- have done this on their C25(s). The lines in your picture look like there's a block midline on the port side -- I don't know how that would work. But you could use a single block with becket to one side, a triple block on the boom, and a double block leading to a cleat (you could use a fiddle with cleat) on the other side. I think.
Then again, there's probably a thread about anything in the archives.
I was looking at my boat today and thinking that with a little rearrangment, I could put a traveler all the way across the transome (sp). It could be in the same location as the factory one, but a real one across the whole back of the cockpit. It would take a little cutting and welding of the stern pulpit, but it could be done. Cheers.
I could ask a question about installing a left-handed flumberstriker upside down without first removing the stainless steel cagunion flange and you can bet that Frank will have a close-up picture of that very installation somewhere in his inventory.
Hi Frank, this looks interesting. From what I can see in the photo, he gained about three inches on each end and lost a lot of upward motion on his tiller. Is that right? Cheers.
This is one of the first photos I took when I returned to sailing in late 03. He went through hell getting the old traveler off. I think newer hardware options could extend the usable track length. The bottom line is that a serious 6:1 boomvang that is led back effectively makes a lot of sense. (Provided the gooseneck holds, the bails hold, and the extrusions hold.) I tend to trim the leach tension over my traveler, set the boom vang and the vang holds the tension pretty well; we are cruising rigs.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Lightnup</i> <br />I could ask a question about installing a left-handed flumberstriker upside down without first removing the stainless steel cagunion flange and you can bet that Frank will have a close-up picture of that very installation somewhere in his inventory.
Steve
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Well, where's the picture of my flux capacitor?
ok, 've been had. I once again bow, but for a different reason.
In my defense, I have seen discharge devices on big capacitor banks that can hold tens of thousands of volts and kill people hours after the thing is turned off.
NOW, where's the picture of my mainsheet, which may be called "all-rope mainsheet".
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by fhopper@mac.com</i> <br />This is a boat in our local fleet. Harken custom bent it for him. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
The way I read the class rules, this will toss you out of the class. Do I have that right?
I would like to go to a better traveller system, but abandoned the idea when I realized I would have to either a) get tossed from the class or b) retain the stock system for class racing, and inform the commitee in PHRF.
-Matt Q.
Edit: Dug up the class rules. <i>2. Travelers must remain on the transom and will be <b>limited so that the mainsheet attachment point may not travel past the point at which the factory installed traveler bar intersected the transom.</b> No rope or wire travelers will be permitted.</i>
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.