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Need Wood

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walkerman
Deckhand

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USA
11 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/02/2006 : 15:26:40

Hi,
I am about to refinish all my exterior wood and realize that it is pretty far gone.
Is there anywhere I can purchase replacement teak top rails and cabin entry surrounds

? The cabin doors are not in as bad of shape. This is not a pop-top.

Thanks,

Brian Walker
1981 C-25 SR/FK Salina
Martinez, CA

Edited by - on

walkerman
Deckhand

Members Avatar

USA
11 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2006 : 15:32:40

p.s. I looked on Catalina Direct, all they have is the cockpit crib doors, trim rings and handle for the sliding hatch.

Thanks

Brian Walker
1981 SR/FK Salina
Martinez, CA

Edited by - on

djn
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1561 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2006 : 15:57:49

Hi Brian, I have found that CD does not list everything they sell. I would call them and see what they have or can get. Cheers. ps what do you mean by far gone? Is it a structural issue or a finish issue.

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2006 : 15:59:01

Brian,

You should call Catalina Direct and ask about the teak pieces you need because they don't list everything they stock on their website. Additionally, if you haven't purchased their C25 Handbook yet (its mostly a C25 parts catalog), you should do so. Its got some good info on things to watch out for as they pertain to our boats.

Edited by - on

Gloss
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1916 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2006 : 15:59:30

I bought some teak handrails from Boater's world. Ordered them of course, but had them in a week

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2006 : 21:14:53

ebay
http://www.buckwoodcraft.com

Edited by - on

thaind
Navigator

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Canada
145 Posts

Response Posted - 08/03/2006 : 08:14:11

Why wood? I would certainly replace my handrails with welded stainless before teak. If you check you will see that the teak rails you now have are far from straight, and any wood rails you get will have to be twisted into this shape.

Edited by - on

Bruce Baker
Captain

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USA
402 Posts

Response Posted - 08/03/2006 : 09:17:18

I bought a new teak rail from CD. It was $114 after shipping. I needed to drill the new holes. It was pretty easy to bend into place.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 08/03/2006 : 10:02:07

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by thaind
 Why wood? I would certainly replace my handrails with welded stainless before teak. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Ouch, hot, hot, damn, hot, ouch.

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existentialsailor
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1180 Posts

Response Posted - 08/03/2006 : 11:30:41

What Frank said. I've gotten burned by my transom railing when lowering or raising my outboard.

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crcalhoon
Captain

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USA
303 Posts

Response Posted - 08/03/2006 : 12:09:30

I'll provide this just for general info. It might answer a few questions for somebody.

Last year I purchased C25, Hull #1435, SR FK. My wife has always been in charge of teak on our boats. She took one look at this one and said "replace it all, I ain't touching it." She was right, the handrails were split and broken, the hatchboards were collapsed deeper than I've ever seen, and the whole thing was a disaster. So, here is what happened, useful for comparative purposes.

My other hobby is woodworking and I have a very complete home shop. One of my best friends operates a custom cabinet shop. I bought from my local dealer a little over $200.00 of teak. Because of the quantity (which wasn't much by most standards, but a good chunk of teak) I got it for $13.50 a board foot. For those who don't know, that is one square foot of nominal 1", actually 3/4" lumber. I took all of this up to my friends shop (400 mile round trip)In one long afternoon, we were able to rough out all the topside parts, grabrails, hatch slides, eyebrows, hatch boards, eveything except the trim rings for the cockpit stowage cutouts. I had to go to a local dealer up there, one which my friend does not use and does not get discount plrices from (not many teak cabinets being built) and pay $16.50 a board foot for one more piece. Total investment now a little over $250 in lumber.
Shop rate varies from shop to shop, but had I been paying for the time, it would have been somewhere between asbout $65 and $100 @ hr.

I brought the pieces home and assembled the hatch boards here, then cut them to size. I finish sanded all the parts in the shop. Then took them to the boat to fit. Probably a full days work in my own shop.
At the boat I learned couple of things: 1. the grabrails are easy to bend to shape, although it needs two people. I opted not to thru bolt them, but did change out Catalina's 1 1/2" screws for 2".
2. There is a lot more handwork than you would think. The companion way framing and hatch board guides are not equal. The bulkheads are of different thicknesses, the port side of the companionway is slightly convex and starboard side is slightly concave. (on my boat)
I finally ended up setting up my workmate table on the dock and carryinga BUNCH of tools down to the boat to do the hand finishing and fitting. We are talking planes and woodrasps and belt sanders here. I suppose that all told I went to the boat three days for installing and probably actually worked on it about 12 or 16 hours to get thefitting right. I could do it again in less time, but that's what it took first time out.
So I guess all this is a lengthy way of saying"when you need to hire somebody to do this, or need to pay for some parts custom made, first don't be surprised at the cost, and second, don't be surprised when what you get doesn't fit just right and needs some hand fitting. Sorry this is so long.

Edited by - on

Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 08/03/2006 : 17:12:22

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">There is a lot more handwork than you would think. The companion way framing and hatch board guides are not equal. The bulkheads are of different thicknesses, the port side of the companionway is slightly convex and starboard side is slightly concave. (on my boat)
I finally ended up setting up my workmate table on the dock and carryinga BUNCH of tools down to the boat to do the hand finishing and fitting. We are talking planes and woodrasps and belt sanders here. I suppose that all told I went to the boat three days for installing and probably actually worked on it about 12 or 16 hours to get thefitting right<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Amen Brother - been there, done that. It took me two days each to hand fit the teak for the inside of the cabin at the companionway opening. I used a piece of sidewalk chalk to mark the fiberglass and then rubbed the teak on it and then carved the teak out where the chalk transfered. Two days of sweating, per side.

I purchased new teak for my drop boards. 7/8" scrub planed. 3 boards, $270.00!! Just for the drop boards!!
You done real good at 13.50/ bdft. Mine, 19.50/ bdft. Ugh!
I'd love to see a picture of it if you can. I love teak.
Dan

Edited by - on

crcalhoon
Captain

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USA
303 Posts

Response Posted - 08/04/2006 : 10:06:44

Thanks for the input. I don't have a digital camera, so no pics, sorry. By the way, Frank Hopper and I agree on this. OIL. Took about an hour to put I forget how many coats on the teak, and in the subsequent nine months I have re-oiled them about 4 times, and am due again. However, I've got it down to where it takes about 8-10 minutes to re-oil. Compared to stripping and sanding the varnish when it gets away from you, which it surely will, someday, that's a bargain IMHO.

Edited by - on

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