Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Im about to start my teak repair on my 86. The teak is grey now and in bad condition. Im thinking about going with sandpaper and varnish on the outside and some cleaner and teak oil on the inside. feedback?
Andrew Miller Niceville, FL "Es Muy Bueno" '86 TR/FK
Find a smaller peice and use a 3 part cleaner, brightner oil first (starbrite makes a set like that)
See if you like it. You might not need to sand. If not you've only wasted a few moments if so you've saved a lot of time sanding. Many guys here also like the oil look on the outside.
I would also recommend removing all of your teak prior to sanding if you plan on doing the entire boat.
Andrew: Some people don't like cleaning/oiling teak but I really enjoyed the job. The outside teak on my boat wasn't grey it was green with thick, solid, mold. I removed the pieces that were easily removed without having to drill out plugs. The procedure was: Apply Starbrite teak cleaner (wet it down really well) I used regular 150 grit sandpaper WET that I would rinse off in a bucket as I went. I also used a stiff plastic bristled brush. You will be surprised how well the Starbrite cleaner works. Afterward, I applied 3/4 coats of teak oil. I found that Starbrite teak oil and the stuff they sell in Lowe's costs about the same. The above was the procedure for the wood on the boat that I didn't remove. For all the pieces that I brought home, I brushed on cleaner really thoroughly and let it soak in for a few minutes and then I washed it off in the slop sink using a stiff bristled plastic brush. Someone told me you could also use Comet to clean the wood but I didn't try it. I'm happy with my oiled wood but can't really speak as to how well it will hold up in the Northeast. It's not a big deal to give everything another coat, though.
Just a quick reminder for any of you not real experienced in teak maintenance/worship/abuse. If you're reviving or refinishing teak in rough condition, and you'd like to end up with smooth wood when you're done, (and most of us probably would), keep the following in mind.
Strong chemical cleaners, especially acids, tend to errode the softer portions of the grain. Scrub brushes, especially stiff ones, also tend to remove the soft wood, leaving ridges of grain. Sand paper with extremely soft backing does too, but not nearly as bad. Sandpaper with a firm backing takes the wood down evenly, leaving it smooth and ready for refinishing. The raised grain effect may look and feel like nonskid for your hands, but the ridges and valleys are difficult to keep clean and protected from environmental degradation. Some of the only teak I've ever seen which I thought was abused beyond recovery had extremely deep grain errosion from years of harsh bleaching and scrubbing.
That said, don't give up easy on ugly looking teak! Unless it's so rotten it crumbles in your hands, try sanding it to a smooth surface and almost even color, apply some sort of finish, and you'll be amazed.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.