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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

General Sailing Forum

Stuffing Box

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bmelchionda
1st Mate

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63 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/27/2006 : 05:21:42

I recently purchased a '86 Catalina 25 with wheel steering and a diesel inboard. She was hauled back in the water this past week after a 3 yr dry and I made the 6 hour voyage (successfully) yesterday.

One item I did notice was that the stuffing box was dripping too often: more than the water cooler recommendation of 2 drops per 60 seconds (??). Mine is dripping about 1 every second. I tried to slightly tighten the rings, but to no avail the dripping didn’t slow. How bad is this, is the boat still safe to sail/motor, and should I haul her NOW to fix? The condition of the box and fittings look good (no corrosion) and reading through other posts might suggests it may not be extremely necessary to fix right away. Can I leave in for another 2 months before I haul?

Thank you!!!

Thank you to all the experienced anmd veterean sailers who paticipate to this amazing forumn. Your help is greatly appreciated from all of us.

'86 Catalina 25 Tall Rig

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 08/27/2006 : 07:29:54

Hi Bryan, welcome to the group. You are unfortunately a member of two extremely small sub groups, the "inboarders" and the "wheelers". While I am sure there will be responses to your question based on either someone having a boat like yours, (three people come to mind) or based on experience with other boats, you will get some info here. You will however find a much greater response to questions about other aspects of your boat. (Unless you ask about your wheel; very rare too!) You could help the organization a lot if you were to document your wheel installation with text and photos and submit it to the "tech tips" section. It would be great to have that info on hand for those who need it. I have only seen two 25s with wheels, one years ago and one at our club now.

Edited by - on

bmelchionda
1st Mate

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63 Posts

Response Posted - 08/27/2006 : 07:48:27

Thank you Frank. I'll do my best to take proper pictures of the past owners installation and add per your request.

Best,
Bryan

Edited by - on

CaptRon400
1st Mate

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USA
90 Posts

Response Posted - 08/27/2006 : 11:49:02

If you can't tighten the nuts a little more (maybe a half turn) to reduce the drip rate, the box has to be cleaned out and the packing has to be replaced. You should be OK for now. If you're hauling in 2 months I wouldn't worry much about it, EXCEPT if you don't have an electric bilge pump or can't periodically get to the boat to manually pump it out. You really can't leave it unattended for long. One other note - it IS possible to replace the packing material while the boat is in the water. Cut the rings beforehand and get everything ready. You can also partially seal the shaft exit (outside of hull) with some plumbers putty to reduce the water flow (and it WILL flow), then remove all of the putty when you're done.

Edited by - on

At Ease
Admiral

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672 Posts

Response Posted - 08/27/2006 : 13:07:00

You did not say if the stuffing box drip rate was while under power or tied up at the dock. Mine (Yanmar 3GM30F) drips more when running, then, after it cools, the drip rate slows. Since it has been out of the water for so long, once the packing (stuffing) gets water soaked, it may tighten up a bit more. I'd also do what CaptRon400 mentioned above.

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dblitz
Navigator

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240 Posts

Response Posted - 08/27/2006 : 19:14:00

Welcome to the forum. I know that you will feel, as many of us do, that our boats are all the more "solid" because of the existence of this association.
My 86 fin keel is an inboard also. No wheel steering though. One thing I want to caution you about which may not allow you to change the packing while in the water is that, on my boat, the engine had to be pulled further in to make just enough room on the shaft to unscrew the nuts.

Edited by - on

Kip C
Navigator

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USA
243 Posts

Response Posted - 08/27/2006 : 19:29:32

Bryan,
Welcome to the forum. I don't have the wheel, but do have the inboard. Our boat came with a drip-less seal and the bilge stays dry. I don't know the cost difference between a reg. and drip-less, but if you replace yours, you might look into one.
Good Luck,

Edited by - Kip C on 08/27/2006 19:30:09

bmelchionda
1st Mate

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63 Posts

Response Posted - 08/28/2006 : 09:27:13

Thank you all. The engine was off when dripping was occurring and I do have an electric/automatic bilge pump. Engine had been running for approximately an hour or so, then turned off and inspected the boat after our travels; saw the leak. I had to leave on a business trip next day (Sunday) so the marina mechanic will take a look today. If it’s still dripping, he will tighten as need be. FYI - I didn’t fiddle with the locking nuts at all......I only tightened the hose clamps which I now know wouldn’t have helped the situation.

My main concern is that I do not think the leaking water has easy access to the bilge. If I'm correct of the layout of the boat and the engine, I do not think the water is able to drip past the barriers and able to reach the bilge. It seems as if water retreats to the port area just under the stern most dinette seat. There is a barrier there between the bilge access area and that under compartment. I may be wrong though – it only makes sense to add some access from back there.

We shall see! I'll respond back with the outcome. Thank you!

Edited by - on

CaptRon400
1st Mate

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USA
90 Posts

Response Posted - 08/28/2006 : 11:34:42

There should be a "weep" hole in all of the stringers (frame structure under the floor) to allow water to get into the real bilge, otherwise you wind up with a bunch of false bilges. Catalina normally drills them when the boat is built, but I've seen many boats (including mine) where one or more were not done. One 400 must have had over 25 gallons of water hidden under and behind the anchor well because it couldn't escape. You also have to make sure that the existing holes are not clogged up (mostly with fibreglass residue).

Tighten the adjusting and lock nuts by maybe a half turn at most. The drip will slow down. The dripless boxes (PYI, etc.) are very good if you want to eliminate one source of bilge water, with the added benefit of not having to worry about it ever again.

Edited by - on

jmoritz
Deckhand

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21 Posts

Response Posted - 08/30/2006 : 11:37:06

You should be able to replace the packing with the boat in the water. I have removed my packing nut in the water before and the flow of water was easily manageable. I considered the dripless shaft seal but was concerned about haveing enough room to fit it in. Based on the dimensions from the manufacturer I would have been very close to the transmission. I chose to repack traditionally with some of the paste Teflon goop smeared in to improve the seal. I have not adjusted the packing in almost 3 years and the dripping is very minor underway and almost non-existent when stopped. When initially adjusting the new packing I made sure that the stuffingbox did not get hot while at full speed. The stuffing box should stay cool always.

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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 08/30/2006 : 20:13:06

I agree all clean bilge compartments should drain to a common pumpable low point where practical. However, many boats have a separate catch basin under the engine and transmission (and genset if so equipped) to prevent any minor oil or fuel leaks from making it to an automatic bilge pump before someone has a chance to clean them up in an environmentally friendly and legal manner.

-- Leon Sisson

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