Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Just got our new (85 sr/sk) in the water. Moved up from C-22. Have a question about the furler. The whole thing turns when we pull the sail out. We had a Snap Furl on the 22 and it had a keeper on the bottom that kept it from turning, but this doesn't have one. I went to the CDI site and looked at the parts diagram for what looks to be this model but can't tell what keeps it from turning. Any suggestions before I tear into this thing?
If this is one of the original reefer 4 or 6 models, i have the owners manual for this. I would be happy to mail or fax a copy. Drop me a line at frich@suffolk.lib.ny.us
Also call CDI as I have the gentleman is very helpful
"The whole thing turns", Drum cage and all? Shouldn't be. The foil should rotate on the forstay with the drum but the cage that contains the furling line and drum should remain fixed. If it's all turning the line is going to foul and the furler may be unscrewing the headstay, not a good thing. Wisest thing to do would to call up the CDI website and determine the model furler that is on your boat. I have a model 3 B and the advice I offered is specific to that model. Previously I had a continuous line furler and the whole unit turned as the sail came out. Tension on the line kept the sail furled. It was wise to secure the sail when away from the boat with a separate line. They had been known to unfurl unwittingly otherwise.
I've got one of the old CDI furlers on my boat. A PO attached a line to the drum cage and tied it to the front legs of the pulpit to keep the cage from turning. THis works reasonably well. Hope this helps.
I did the same thing as Gary's PO as a "quick fix" to similar furling problems I was having one day. The cage on my CDI furler is four thick wires, one which has a loop on it. I tied one end of small diameter line to the wire loop part of the cage, the one in which the furling line first goes through as it leaves the drum. The other end is tied to the base of the closest bow pulpit stantion. This prevents the cage from turning, allowing the furling line to wrap around the drum as you pull on the jib sheet.
After that, I called the guy at CDI. He said I could purchase a drum rebuild kit, but that my "quick fix" will probably work better and is clearly much cheaper.
I have a CDI furler on my boat also. It came with it when I bought it. Being new to furlers I didn't realize anything was wrong. I just thought it must be a first generation furler and they hadn't figured out how to keep the furling line from falling off the drum. So when I saw your post, I thought, "the whole thing is supposed to spin around." Then I looked at the CDI website and found the diagram for the model 4/6 A. I'm missing the bottom bearing and the two wires that make up the drum cage that's supposed to keep the line from falling off the drum. Learn something new everyday. So that's on order now.
Looking at the diagram, the upper and lower bearing and cage wires aren't supposed to spin (obvious, I know). I would take the drum apart, carefully if your boat's in the water, and make sure there's a nut and lock washer above and below the two bearing pieces, and that they sandwich the bearings together good and tight, maybe a little LockTite as well. Then the furler can spin and the cage won't.
John, that's very interesting. Thanks. I think I may have that problem (loose bearings) with my furler. My boat stays in the water and I've been reluctant to take the furler apart. Do you have any advice for doing so and for lowering the mast with the furler?
Thanks for all the help. I talked to CDI and he had a few choice words for this design. He said there are two clamps that didn't work for very long and to just tie it off. I tied it off and it works but I think after reading some of these posts that I should take it apart and make sure its all there. Thanks again for the manual Frank, it really helps.
Gary, I've taken mine apart three or four times tuning the rig and adjusting the furler. I haven't figured out any failsafe method to ensure a dropped screw won't end up in the water, but the screws are still half way in the hole when the threads in the drum release, so that helps.
All I can say about how I do it is, first I adjust the dock lines so the bow is as close to the dock as I can get it. Then I loosen the halyard and tack lines and remove the two flathead screws at the top of the drum assembly that attach into the aluminum extrusion(I have a 4/6 model A, model B is different). I slide the extrusion w/ sail up out of the way and hold it there with a strong spring clamp with rubber tips. Remove the furling line. Then just carefully remove one screw at a time putting each in my pocket. I keep a finger on the head of the screw right next to the screwdriver tip as I unscrew it so it doesn't pop out or fall. So far I haven't dropped any in the drink (knock on fiberglass).
I have no suggestions for lowering the mast with the furler on the forestay. I disassemble the furler before lowering the mast. You'd have to keep a lot of tension on the forestay as the mast was lowered to keep the furler extrusions from bending.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.