Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
My 9.9 hp Evinrude dies after I push out from the dock or I don't sit in the cockpit area while in the slip. Given the engine was overhauled recently and worked great then... I'm thinking either my gas is getting old or my fuel line is not getting enough fuel into the motor.
I'd appreciate any ideas you have to get my motor working again so my wife doesn't make me sell the boat. She hasn't enjoyed the engine not cooperating while on the lake. Appreciate your help!
More info is needed. List the steps you take to start and the symptoms that it gives. Does it die once you put it in gear?
For instance on my '84 Mariner 9.9, I have to prime it, full choke, start, reduce to choke by 1/3, run for 5 minutes, then reduce choke another 1/3, then all is well.
Most of us buy these boats with old engines, a good two stroke is a great engine. Most sailboat engines fail due to too little use; shellac in the carburetor and such. my old one like yours had a bad impellor which reeked havock since I had it replaced and the mechanic did not really do it!!! I was succesfull at getting my evinrude started by tilting it up out of the water and then putting it down quickly after it started. Toss the old can, get new fuel line. Buy small hose clamps to replace the crimp fittings on the new cheapo fuel line. After that go yell at the mechanic you used, however be prepared for it to run fine for him.
Hi Scottpuff, I had the same thing happen to me with my 9.9 Johnson after it was tuned up. The problem in my case was the guy set the idle too low. I have remote controls so I open the engine cover and gave the knewrled (sp) a couple 1/8 turns and it increased the RPMs at idle. Not a problem since. Cheers.
As John P said, the more detail you provide when asking us a question, the more accurate our answers are likely to be. Based on what you've said so far, my first hunch would be to suspect the fuel system. See what you can do to eliminate the most common fuel problems: <ul><li>Be sure the fuel tank vent is open. (Obvious, but sometimes overlooked, and a real cheap fix!)</li> <li>Be sure the gas in the tank is fresh and well mixed with quality 2-stroke oil at the correct ratio.</li> <li>Check the bottom of the tank for accumulated crud.</li> <li>Verify fuel flow by removing the fuel line from the quick connect at the motor (as in unclamp and pull off bare end of hose, not just release coupler). While directing the end of the hose into a container (glass bottle or back into the tank filler). pump the priming bulb. Fuel should gush out of the hose. If the primer bulb feels stiff, and the fuel barely dribbles, look for an obstruction in the line. If using a glass jar, inspect fuel for contamination.</li> <li>If practical, repeat the fuel flow test right at the carb. (Be sure to capture and recycle the fuel coming out.)</li> <li>And speaking of the carb, crud in the float bowl is right at the top of the list of problems which usually cause outboards to run poorly.</li> <li>Remove the float bowl, and be sure everything in there is clean, clean, clean. (And hence forth when putting the boat away, always disconnect the fuel line from the motor and then run the motor until it sucks the float bowl dry. Doing this will NOT damage a 2-stroke engine.)</li> <li>Always use a large capacity fuel filter capable of trapping water, and of being visually inspected (has a clear body). (After having the flashlight battery size filters overwhelmed by water in the fuel, I switched to a serious Racor style filter installation. End of problem.)</li> <li>Remove the sparkplugs, and inspect the firing end for fouling by dampness or thick black soot. If dirty then replace with new ones.</li> <li>To do a quick and dirty troubleshooting ignition test, hook the plug wires to new or known good plugs held against a metal part of the engine while spinning the engine. The sparks should be consistant and bright white/blue. An intermitant thin yellow spark is cause for suspicion. An even more demanding ignition test is to use a test sparkplug with the side electrode cut off. Any spark which can jump a gap that wide in open air is plenty healthy enough to light off a flamable mixture under pressure in the combustion chamber.</li> <li>While the plugs are out, do a quick and dirty troubleshooting compression test. Hold your thumb tightly over one plug hole at a time while spinning the engine with both throttle and choke wide open. If the compression is strong enough to loudly blow past your thumb, then it's probably not the cause of your problem.</li></ul> -- Leon Sisson
My old engine was a problem from day 1. It was only 10 years old and looked good. It was ridden very hard and outlasted it's reliable useful life. I bought the bullet and a new engine 1 year ago. It has been fantastic with 100% reliability and confidence. I expect to get at least 10 years form the new one with proper care. If you factor the cost over a lifetime, it will likely be cheaper with the zero downtime factored in. Good luck getting to the bottom of it, but don't be a slave to a bum engine.
To further push the point of the dirty carb, my 9.9 would not start this year, yet it ran perfect last year. So, off to the store I went to order a carb kit. When ordering, I ask to confirm that the fuel pump kit came with it. Yes, they said it did. Next week comes, kit is in, no fuel pump kit. Nope, that is extra, not included ($40 more). Now, once the carb kit was in, the engine started right up, but it did not run well until I got the fuel pump rebuilt. Now it runs pretty good for a 22 year old motor.
The two single biggest improvements to a boat that make a wife happy to go sailing are a furler and a new motor. She may not know it now but she will after you have bought them.
Scottpuff, I'm not a mechanic but I'll share my experience with our 1989 9.9 Evinrude which we've had three seasons now. First season: replaced plugs, oil and ran with it. Started up great but limited power. Second season: we had a marine mechanic rebuild the carberator and fuel pump (not cheap). Engine started and ran great at first but became increasingly difficult to start as the season progressed. By end of the season it would die at about 1/3 throttle if I could even get it started. After going through a list similar to Leon's, I discovered it was simply water in the fuel. Whether due to having stored our fuel with stabilizer the previous winter, condensation, or the ethanol blend issue raised earlier on this forum, I don't know. Third season: fresh gas, a little additive to bind any condensation water, and the engine has performed great. Not as shiny, quiet or clean as a new 4-stroke but until the budget allows, it will do. If the weather in Dallas is such that you store your tank for a period, I wouldn't fill the tank and add stabilizer as some "books" recommend. Empty the tank and add fresh gas the next season. You might also want to read up on this forum about in-line filters.
Do not underestimate the Admirals demands. I've committed these past three seasons to meeting the Admirals needs (safety, comfort, esthetics)....but we've gone from "go sailing, I'm not interested" to "maybe next summer we can explore ...." wow!
Excellent post Leon. Printed it and will put in boat. Did keep the Chrysler Sailor, 9.8 running for 25 years but learned to keep fresh plugs aboard and started each season with new plugs. Then on a San Juan Cruise wife heard the dock gang remark they hadn't seen a Chrysler outboard for years and later on our lake it quit when approaching the dinner dock with guest aboard soooo now the boat has the new Honda. Next season will be back to the San Juans with spare plugs and all the other items that could cause a problem. Getting ready to store the Honda for the next season using the details from the Forum.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.