Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Unfortunately, I think it's time to strip the bottom down to bare fiberglass. There are areas where the paint just keeps chipping off the bottom each season and the layers are pretty thick.
For those of you who have used the WM Peel Away Marine Safety Strip, how much is needed for our boats? Is one gallon enough? Two? Five?
Then I guess I'll need to figure out what will go on in its place . . .
5 gallons and I have an unopened one for sale. Find the best online deal and I will sell it for 50% of that plus shipping. I bought it for my C22 and then bought a C250 which doesn't need it.
I understand that barrier coats only need to be done once. Is that true? If true, and since I have info that a PO had a barrier coat put on, how does one strip the ablative paint off without damaging the barrier coat. I hesitate to use scrapers, etc.
Tom, see my post in the Swap Meet section. 5 gallon bucket of Dumond Peel Away Safety Strip. This is the stuff that will peel off all paint, including anti-fouling and barrier coating, to the gelcoat. It will not harm the gelcoat.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">...how does one strip the ablative paint off without damaging the barrier coat. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I haven't used WM Peel Away Marine Safety Strip, but have used other strippers formulated for fiberglass, and the paint strippers I've used will remove both antifouling paint and barrier coats. You said your bottom paint is an ablative, and the general idea of ablatives is that they aren't supposed to accumulate over the years, so, in theory, you shouldn't have to strip them off. You put on one coat of blue paint and two coats of red, and when the red erodes enough so that the blue starts to show through, then you give it a light sanding and apply new bottom paint.
Is your bottom paint chipping and peeling over a widespread area? If so, it might be that the PO started applying hard finish epoxy paint after he barrier coated it. Then, after there was already a heavy accumulation of non-ablative paint, he might have started applying an ablative. If that's what happened, there's probably no way to strip the old antifouling without also stripping the barrier coat.
The only alternative I can think of is that, if you're not interested in achieving a pristine bottom, for racing, you might be able to sand off enough of the old paint to get it smooth enough for ordinary sailing and cruising purposes.
If you want to prep it for racing, you'll probably need to strip it down to the bare fiberglass and start over again. The only consolation is that, if you use only ablative in the future, you should never have to do it again.
When is the cayenne pepper is used? Understand it acts as a preventative for salt water marine life, ie. barnacles. A post here some time ago indicated that a boat was removed from salt water after several years without treatment and had no barnacles. Just curious as I'll probably have mine painted early next spring.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by fhopper@mac.com</i> <br />Once you are done switch to VC-17...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> In salt water?
<i>VC Offshore is a high strength antifouling paint with TeflonĀ® for use in saltwater. It yields a hard, very smooth finish for maximum durability, reduced friction and increased performance.</i>
<i>VC Offshore is a high strength antifouling paint with TeflonĀ® for use in saltwater. It yields a hard, very smooth finish for maximum durability, reduced friction and increased performance.</i> <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Yes, but what you have to do to get it off after a few seasons and it's horrendously expensive IMO. I saw boats hauled at the same yard as mine was and the one that had Offshore didn't look any better than mine.
I plan on refinishing my bottom sometime next season (no, I don't mean roids) I'll probably use some kind of chemical stripper as I hate ablative dust when sanding, even though I use one of those really good 3M respirators. So what should I use for a barrier coat? VC tar, or the Interlux 2000 (I think that's the right number) or both. I want to do the best, most time efficient job possible, and will spend the extra bucks so as not to do it again for a while. How about multiple coats of VC 17? I have my boat slipped in fresh water where we get mostly slime from algae and red clay here in Knoxville. I trailer once a year to the keys for 3 weeks, so barnacles aren't an issue.
Has you bottom ever been sanded? If not I would avoid it. My boat has no blisters and the factory bottom has never been violated. I do not use a barrier coat, just 2 coats of VC 17. Interlux sells a no sand prep for the first coat ever, after that you just paint. If your bottom has been sanded and/or have blister issues then you are on a longer path.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Gloss</i> <br />Frank, I'm sure my bottom is just as smooth as yours.
Frank, it's hard for a DIYer to apply barrier coat smoothly enough for a good racing finish. Racers often use VC Tar instead of barrier coat, because it produces a much smoother finish.
I used the two part epoxy and it went on very smooth.
Only draw back was the work time. You have to plan for small areas at a time and work quick. I sail in mostly fresh water with a sea trip here and there. So far no problems, it looks as good today as it did 3 years ago, even with trailering, and I have no anti fouling at all. It only sits in water (fresh) for 4 months and then it's trailered. Algae forms but is easily washed off each season. I would not leave it in salt water, for long, without anti fouling.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.