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Internal Wood Work

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Daren
1st Mate

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USA
81 Posts

Initially Posted - 12/11/2006 : 14:47:16

When is a good time or better yet, temperature, to refinish the wood inside of my C-25. Is it teak? Maybe the steps are, but not sure about the other wood surfaces. Is this a project that can be done in the winter?

S/V Prima Donna
1986, 15 HP Universal Inboard Diesel, Fixed keel, Hull # 5362

Edited by - on

farrison
Navigator

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USA
166 Posts

Response Posted - 12/11/2006 : 15:50:56

Daren;

Your wood is probably teak and can be oiled with teak oil, tung oil or even lemon oil for furniture. It can be done anytime during the year, though it will soak in more quickly if the outside temps are warmer. If it is dirty you may want to spot clean it first with Murphey's oil soap, then rinse and oil. I leave a small bottle of teak oil and a rag on the boat and oil the wood while I am waiting for the wind or sailing buddys. It is the kind of thing you can do several times a year.

Happy Sailing!

Paul

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mashedcat
Navigator

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USA
194 Posts

Response Posted - 12/11/2006 : 19:20:02

Daren. I use varnish on my interior. As Paul said there are other finishes as well. All a matter of personal taste. A couple of caveats: lemon oil isnt a real wood finish (its mostly mineral spirits), and undiluted tung oil gives very little protection to wood. There is a product marketed as tung oil varnish, but my experience with it is very limited. But, whichever way you decide to go, for best results read and follow the manufacturers instructions.

Edited by - on

Justin
Admiral

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502 Posts

Response Posted - 12/11/2006 : 20:02:57

Hey Daren, check out my old post last winter when I used Howard's Restore-A-Finish http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true& TOPIC_ID=11269. I definitely recommend it. It's easy to use and really restores the wood. My teak doesn't look as nice as those pictures now, a little oil and it will look just as good again.

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 12/11/2006 : 21:27:21

There are so many considerations; where you sail; the condition of the wood; your personal tastes...
I enjoy "fresh" looking teak. I am lucky enough to have a boat that had nothing over the factory finish, the wood was dry but light in color. Lemon Oil by Old English makes my wood look just the way I like it. I doubt people can have wood like mine in a more humid area, I would think heavier treatments like traditional teak oils are needed in those environments. I could imagine the rainy Northwest as a great place for a hard spar varnish finish. It is also easy to see why each has its admirers.
Then there is the outside!!
I have a page of photos where I use Starbrite teak oil on out side teak, urethane finish on some teak items that need a hard finish, and lemon oil every where else inside.
[url="http://homepage.mac.com/fhopper/PhotoAlbum120.html"]teak link[/url]

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Steve Siefken
1st Mate

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USA
81 Posts

Response Posted - 12/11/2006 : 22:11:26

I have had the boat for about a year and a half, but I have only applied teak oil to the interior wood. (The outside is Cetol light.) Not sure what the previous owner used.

If I was to change to varnish on the interior, would I have to sand to bear wood first?

Thanks,

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mashedcat
Navigator

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USA
194 Posts

Response Posted - 12/11/2006 : 23:16:41

Steve, If I were doing it I would start from scratch. You'll want a good sanded surface to apply the varnish to. Most experts on varnishing teak that I've read say that the reason varnish fails so often on teak is that the teak itself has so much oil in it. So if you already have oil on yours....you get the picture. Most of those same guys suggest that just before you put the first coat on you wipe the surface with a quick drying solvent such as lacquer thinner, to take up some of the oil.
Also, be careful of the flat surfaces such as the bulkheads and door panels. On my boat they were made of faux teak. If you sand that stuff you end up with a piece of varnished paper.

Edited by - mashedcat on 12/11/2006 23:25:02

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 12/12/2006 : 06:21:27

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by mashedcat
 
Also, be careful of the flat surfaces such as the bulkheads and door panels. On my boat they were made of faux teak. If you sand that stuff you end up with a piece of varnished paper.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Huh? The tacky table is faux teak but I thought all of the bulkheads were teak veneer plywood; mine have been.

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Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 12/12/2006 : 06:52:36

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by fhopper@mac.com
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by mashedcat
 
Also, be careful of the flat surfaces such as the bulkheads and door panels. On my boat they were made of faux teak. If you sand that stuff you end up with a piece of varnished paper.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Huh? The tacky table is faux teak but I thought all of the bulkheads were teak veneer plywood; mine have been.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Frank, My 78 looks like a fake laminate over marine ply. They might have changed in the later years.

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mashedcat
Navigator

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USA
194 Posts

Response Posted - 12/12/2006 : 13:11:12

My boat is a '77. The table top and galley counter are a really bad looking wood grain plastic laminate. The bulkheads and door inserts are almost like a wallpaper. Definitely not a wood product. My kids' C25 is an '83 I believe, and their bulkheads are teak veneer plywood, which when compared to mine look quite elegant. I plan to re cover mine with wood, since the plywood itself is in good shape. I don't have any idea what the progression of the woodwork from the factory was, but do be careful before you sand.

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Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 12/14/2006 : 06:49:06

Dave - take a look at a real teak veneer. You can usually vacuum bag it with a goo mil plastic, some duct tape and a shop vac. Rockler.com carries the veneer and if your plan is to cover it anyway, it might be worth a few bucks to test. I can't say the project will be any easier, or look better but it might be.

dw

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mashedcat
Navigator

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USA
194 Posts

Response Posted - 12/14/2006 : 17:52:04

Thanks, Duane...I'll check it out. I have a bunch of myrtlewood milled to 1/4 which I was going to use. It can have some really pretty effects when its finished, but browner in tone than teak. But, I figured anything is better than fake teak wallpaper.

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