Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I need some input on doing a complete deck overhaul. I have already identified many items that either need to be replaced and/or rebedded. I have seen prior posts were I have seen folks saying they wish they had just done the complete deck. I geuss I am looking for thoughts, suggestions, other helpful hints. One of my main concerns is how tight to refasten items once I put things back in place. The other reason I am doing this is to do a complete refinish of the deck and wood to restore it to like new condition. I am sure the buffing out of the hull will go quickly with a clean area to work.
I stripped and reassembled the deck of my 1979 C-25 shortly after I got it. It really is easier to do it all at once. While you've got all those mounting holes exposed, I suggest lining them with cast in place epoxy bushings. If you search our archives, I think you'll find some info on that, and deck accessory work in general.
As for "<i>What deck item are these in use on?</i>" Pretty much everything with a thru-hole, especially the most heavily loaded items (cleats, winches, blocks, mast step, stanchions, chainplates, it quickly adds up to pretty much everything with a thru-hole).
About the only items I didn't overdrill for were the handrails, because on my boat they're attached with screws from below up into blind holes in the teak. With the drill - fill - redrill method, It would be tricky to get the new hole in the deck exactly concentric to the existing hole in the teak. On those, I just soaked the deck core with two or three coats of epoxy inside the thru-holes, redrilling with the original size bit between coats to trim back any 'petrified fuzz' (wood fibers disturbed by the cotton swabs or pipe cleaners, and subsequently stiffened with the hardened epoxy).
A work around is to thru-drill the blind screw holes in the teak with an extra long skinny bit, maybe 1/8". Then use the teak as a drilling jig to relocate the new holes in the epoxy bushing. Then plug the top of the holes in the teak with tiny wooden dowel, or epoxy thickened to a mush with teak sanding dust. That may be more effort than some people are interested in going to.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.