Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I’m interested in how other C-25s handle the electrical connection between their outboard motor and the battery. On my ’84 C-25 the factory-installed connection is a bolt and wingnut splice located inside the port sail locker. I would like to improve upon this arrangement with a neater quick-disconnect type of plug. I’ve been considering using a two-pole plug from a trailer hitch but I don’t know if it will handle the amperage draw of the electric starter. Anybody got any other ideas?
I made a high current terminal block inside the port locker of my 1979 C-25 using a block of epoxy coated wood and 5/16" bolts. I've been considering changing to a high current trolling motor connector. I think any connector will be more reliable if protected from weather exposure. This would likely mean the engine wiring connector passing through a hole in the transom, perhaps just above or below the hull-deck seam. I welcome suggestions on how to cover that hole neatly.
Whatever you install, be very careful to insulate any exposed conductors against accidental short circuits. Also, this would be a good opportunity to install a large fuse or circuit breaker to protect that wiring from a short circuit at the engine end, such as a locked up electric starter. (Unfused starter circuits have always seemed odd to me.)
I have an electric start Honda 8 I mounted a Marinco twist lock trolling motor plug in my transom, and keep it lubed with dielectric grease. No problem after about three years use. Since I trailer sail my boat once a year it's easier to unmount my motor and stick it in the back of the truck. I also use a Garhauer lifting davit to make that job easier.
I have used the trolling motor plug and receptical for over ten years and now with the Honda. It does connect in a wood tray in the port locker away from direct exposure to weather. Had an engine problem and the removeal made a quick disconnect happen. It does inter through a shared opening with the rest of the outboard controls. I used breakers for each battery at the battery so each 12 volt line to the master switch protects between the battery and the fuse panel. The breakers ordered from my local RV store are small but protect the #4 wires. I would have to remove the top of battery box to reset the breaker and not until the problem was fixed but this way I have no bare terminals. (It has been 8f degrees the last two mornings here in sunny California, just thought I would throw that in)
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.