Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I installed a BEP 901H 8 Circuit Breaker Switch Panel purchased from Boater's World. http://www.bepmarine.com/showproduct.cfm?productid=55 Installed it on fiberglass panel in front of the sink. So far, I have transferred over the Navigation (running), Steaming, Deck/Mast, Anchor and Cabin lights. Today, I drilled thru the deck connector on the cabin top into the Head compartment and threaded through the new wires (mast was rewired this past summer). I temporarily screwed down the deck connector but have to get the countersink screws to install the connector properly.
Question: 3M 5200 sealant indicates temperature should be above 40F or do not use. Temps were in mid/high 30s today and another cold front comes in tonight with temps dropping. Maybe I will get some warm days but...if not, then any sealant I can use in cold weather ? Use the 3M sealant anyway ? or just wait another 2 months and then use the 3M sealant ? (The Cat '89 has the fiberglass molded with the deck connector base raised slightly. My thought is that this will keep the connector fairly dry - not a water leak issue/maybe minor moisture issue between the plastic connector and the raised connector base and so maybe I can get away with waiting for warmer weather before sealing underneath the connector.) Thoughts ?
Or maybe heat the area while the 5200 cures. You could tape a paper cup over the exterior connector, maybe pile on some other insulation around it, and position a shop light in the cabin below the connector for a couple of days. Be careful not to over do the heat. I've used this method so efficiently a couple of times, I was lucky not to start a fire.
Well...the heat is one way but...prefer not doing that. First, my marina charges $20 per month for the electric and so I normally do not have a need fr it. They do charge $3/day - I guess I could do that. Second...except for those boats that use electric for their bilge pumps, the marina has rules against leaving heaters on when not onboard your boat. I guess a light would not exactly be a heater......to tell you the truth...I think I like half of your suggestion as an option - Maybe I will just put a cup around the connector and tape it down. Then I can wait till warmer weather arrives and finish the job.
By the way...they were going to charge me $3 for using the electric today...but since I needed it for all of 10 minutes (basically to drill thru the cabin top and then wrap up the electric line), they waived the fee. But the boat store will get that when I buy the screws.
"...but since I needed it for all of 10 minutes (basically to drill thru the cabin top..."
IMHO: Some of the best money you'll ever spend on tools... a cordless drill. The new generation 18V (and higher) cordless tools have amazing power and battery life.
Regarding cordless tools...I have debated buying these tools. I have very good electric cord models and my thought has always been that the cordless model would go unused for many months at a time..sort of what happens with my video camera. the windup is that I would have to replace the rechargeable batteries and the use of it would not offset the pain with replacing the batteries.
But...then I got back into boating fall '05 and since I do not use the electric...I reconsidered getting a rechargeable tool. I bought a rechargeable Dremel and use it all the time. It is slightly underpowered for some of the jobs and I wind-up recharging it frequently but from frequent use....so ...that's a good thing. I use it frequently. I guess i could have gotten a power drill instead but went the Dremel route. Now that I have it...I am once again thinking that if I get another rechargeable...like the power drill, I may not use it frequently.
One benefit I now see with the rechargeables is that the rechargeable batteries they are now using in some have no permanent memory loss. The Dremel comes with ...believe it is a 2 yr warranty on the battery. The advertisement for it on the package indicates no memory set on the battery if not used for say 2-3 months. Just recharge it and it is back to 100%. So...rechargeables , I believe, have improved from years ago. maybe one day i will break down and get another one - power drill would be first choice.
I love my 12V recahargable 3/8" drill/screw gun. I don't doubt the 18V tools have lots of power. However, once the first 12V power pack wears out, it could be gutted and converted into a power cord adapter which either plugs into a cigarette lighter outlet, or attaches to a 12V battery. That may seem to totally defeat the point of a cordless drill, but it results in a drill which can be used onboard without relying on shore power. I also have a 12V powered power pack charger which I keep on the boat. (Now how silly is a 12VDC powered 12VDC battery charger?)
Are you sure you want to use the 5200 ?? I have heard that you have to take the wedding vow when using it 'Till death do we part' and nothing will part it except to cut it out! ???
Re the tools: Have been delighted with my FireStorm kit, the sawsall drains the battery in minutes, but the other tools are great. I used it extensively when rebuilding my 300'+ fence that wilma suggested I replace.
Hi Larry, one of my part time gigs is painting custome Harleys. I've been doing it for over thirty years....did the first one in highschool. I have learned the hard way (total repaints) to follow the directions on any chemical product. Here is the last bike I helped build and paint. As far as coredless tools are concerned, they have come soooo far in power and reliability....if you can afford it, go for it. Cheers.
I will have to check out the harley at home...my office PC does not show the picture.
3m 5200 - I am not sure why I bought it. I have used it and the 4000 series product. I think one sets up faster. In any case, I do not think i will get any water past the deck connector since the fiberglass base lip is about 1/4" above the deck. But will put a cup or something over the fitting to remove any doubt and then bide my time for a month or so before sealing it.
Leon...okay...now you have got me interested in the power drill. Did not know it also comes with other options for running it besides the rechargeable batteries. Where were you...2 years ago when i bought I high end Dewalt electri cord power drill...oh yeah...I was not on this Board at that time.
Larry,<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by OLarryR</i> <br />...now you have got me interested in the power drill. Did not know it also comes with other options for running it besides the rechargeable batteries.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Just to be sure you understood me correctly, I didn't mean the 12VDC DeWalt came with "<i>options for running it besides the rechargeable batteries</i>." I'm saying a 12V battery module which will no longer take and hold a charge (as indicated by the charger's LED blinking an error code) can be torn apart and modified to provide a means of connecting the drill to other 12VDC power sources, while still being able to use a snap-in power pack.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">"<i>...2 years ago when I bought a high end Dewalt corded drill...</i>."<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I have learned not to think of consumer grade power tools as a lifetime investment.
About 10 years ago, I purchased my two largest fixer-upper projects so far -- a 40 year old house and 25 year old sailboat. Around the same time, I bought four DeWalt hand drills.
So far, I've worn out and replaced two of the DeWalt drills -- the pistol grip 3/8" 120vac and 12VDC ones. The original 120vac 1/2" hammer drill and the 12VDC 3/8" right angle are hanging in there in spite of some harsh treatment. (Using the right angle drill as a sander/grinder for instance, and using the hammer drill to route household wiring through more than a foot of concrete, and to stir roofing tar.) I'm not trying to bad mouth DeWalt drills. I'm just saying owning one doesn't mean you'll never have occasion to buy another.
Leon...well it sounds like you have needs for industrial grade tools from the type of projects you have been working on. The only tools/power tools I can think of that I have worn out were many, many years old. A long time ago, I finished the basement and was more into some woodwork projects, I have a Sears radial arm saw that is over 20 years old and still works well. But the old power drill I had finally gave itself up and so in comparison, the power drill I bought is still new to me since I have had few serious opportunities to use it during the last 2 years. I have too many things going on right now but...I would like to build a small saiboat, so that would get me back into the wood projects again. I have had my eye on a 12 foot sailboat called the Swifty 12. It's sold in a kit form by Shell Boats at: http://www.shellboats.com/sbboats.html#Swifty
I recently bought a set of inexpensive 18v tools (drill, 5" circ saw, light, sander) when the old 12v drill finally died. I only do occassional fix-its around the house so don't really need the the top shelf stuff. I like the convenience of the cordless but sometimes the weight of the battery sure makes the use of an extension cord seem less of a bother. Particularly on overhead jobs. I might go back to a 12v set for the boat.
I not only keep an old 12v drill on board but also enough aluminum and stainless angle and tubing stock to (hopefully) fix almost anything short of being dismasted. And a Tupperware container full of various nuts, bolts, washers, pins, screws, etc. along with a hack saw and the usual tool kit should keep me from having to call the USCG for a rescue.
Ben, it's amazing what can be achieved with those few basics you mentioned.
When in the Naval Fleet Air Arm, our combat repair schedule was quite different from normal. Use a broom stick to replace a broken push rod, duck tape to cover aircraft skin and to secure anything flapping, band clamps to secure material over a broken hose. etc.
Dennis, that's a beautiful paint job, and a very creative design. I hope it did well in the shows.
Larry, the Swifty 12 looks like a fast, fun dinghy. I especially like the clever use of multi-chine plywood construction to achieve such a smoothly curved shallow spoon hull shape. Building a boat indoors sounds like a very good use of one's time during a D.C. winter. You could light the shop with sun lamps, and hang some tropical island posters on the walls to enhance the therapeutic effect.
A few years ago, I built an 8' D4 pram. It was a lot of fun to build, and has been a good tender for my C-25. Regarding the Swifty construction project you linked to, I would suggest at least one layer of fiberglass cloth over all plywood surfaces. I tried using just several coats of WEST resin inside the boat, and the plywood started checking after a couple of years. If I were to build another dinghy, I'd give serious consideration to an [url="http://www.bandbyachtdesigns.com/spin.htm"]11' nesting Spindrift[/url].
<center>[url="http://seaweed.thebilge.com/spindrift"][/url] </center> <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Leon...well it sounds like you have needs for industrial grade tools from the type of projects you have been working on.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> But if my power tools were too durable, I'd have fewer excuses to go shopping for new tools! I remember a couple of cheap Black & Decker saws I wished would finally die so I could justify replacing them with something easier to use. The fixer-upper house project quickly finished them both off.
Since we are discussing home projects... Here is what I have been up to this past week. I live in a 57 year old house on Jones Creek here. It's a nice house. But some previous owner enclosed the carport and removed a wall to make a sunken den with big picture windows overlooking the creek. And then the Admiral and I noticed some cracks forming in the plaster above our dining room table. So I tore into it to see what was going on. They had left the top course of CMU (concrete masonry unit) which was poured with concrete but did not put any rebar in the lintel. I removed the concrete and put a wood beam in it's place. You can see where I have popped a chaulk line and there is 2 1/4 in. deflection
I didn't have time to order a LVL or Microlam so I used five 2x8s and put 3 12d nails at 12 oc. That way the deminsions came out the same as the CMU. I also added a db 2x8 post on either side. Thank goodness for nail guns!
What great projects ! Many of us that are doing work on our boats...probably would wind up doing upgrades even if we had new boats. We just like working on projects ! They also give us good excuses for buying new tools/gadgets.
Leon, I remember past postings about your nesting dinghy. I have considered going that route but the area I sail in, I have very little use of a dinghy to take onboard my Catalina and I have an underutilized Sevylor inflatable canoe which I can use. The Potomac River near the Washington DC area has no real places for me to use a dinghy to get off my Catalina. Most areas I would either anchor and stay put or put into a Marina. Further south on the river, then I could put it to better use. My thought was that I would go with a 12 or 13 footer without nesting capability and put in at a ramp on the Potomac or trailer it to a lake or when we go to the Outerbanks for summer vacations. I also looked at the Cheasapeake Light craft wood sailboats (www.clc.com) but some of the photos show them with the bows raised up out of the water quite a bit and they do not have flotation built in. the swifty can have foam inserted under the seats and the decking near the bow but ther seats are also sealed and so they have positive bouyancy even without foam. Anyway, it was one of ny thoughts as I ponder future potential projects. I agree that it would be better to put a layer of fibergalss on the wood. On some wood sailboats home-built, they do not do this because they want to show off the wood layers but that is not the case with the Swifty and so fiberglassing it would be a good option.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.