Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I am new to sailing and recently was given a Catalina 25. The hull is in great condition although the mast has been repaired and the holes for the spreaders were covered during the process. Can any one give me the measurments from the top or bottom of the mast to the spreader bracket.
Not really sure how much I trust a repaired mast, is this a common practice or should I really start looking for a new mast. If I should look for a new mast any one know of a 28' mast that is compatible with the Cat 25.
I have talked to Catalina Direct and they have a new one for about $3050 rigged.
I would be very skeptical about a mast repair job which obliterated the spreader mount holes for a variety of reasons. I strongly suggest you have the mast repair inspected by a professional rigger with no financial connection to whoever did the repair.
Also, you might try advertising for a used Catalina 25 mast. I'd take a wild guess one might be had for $1,000 give or take a few hundred depending on condition and what's included. You would likely save a large percentage of the cost by reusing as much of your old rigging hardware as is practical and safe.
Also, be aware C-25s were sold with two different length masts. At 28' I'd say you've got the standard rig. Just be sure to mention length when searching for a used one.
As to your original question, C-25 spreaders are located at the midpoint of the extrusion, as are almost all single spreader rigs. Catalina Yachts has, and can supply you with, a copy of the shop drawing the mast was originally built from. They are very helpful and supportive folks.
Since you're taking this on while still new to sailing, you might benefit from reading "The Complete Rigger's Apprentice" by Brion Toss. As the saying goes, you don't know what you don't know.
"Not really sure how much I trust a repaired mast"
Mast failure around the midpoint = real trouble. You're talking about the potential of serious injury, death. Unless the repair was profesionally done by a qualified rigger... I'd opt for a new mast.
"I have talked to Catalina Direct and they have a new one for about $3050 rigged."
Last time I checked you could by a new mast extrusion (the tube) for about $600.
IMHO: Not a lot to 'fitting' it. Drill 3 holes for the spreader bracket bolts, several small holes for the retaining screws of the mast head fitting... a couple screw holes at the bottom for the base plate... oh, and a couple small holes for the steaming light. If your halyard lines aren't lead aft, you'll need to mount a couple cleats. All of this is do-able with a dill motor, center punch and some bits. (and a modicum of mechanical ability)
Thanks I was thinking about placing an ad for a used one. I'm not in a rush my son and I are taking a basic Keel boat course in two weeks, we started with a Day sail course and now looking to learn more. I am looking forward to reading the book, I have the rigging video from Catalina Direct and it was very informative.
Michael
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Leon Sisson</i> <br />I would be very skeptical about a mast repair job which obliterated the spreader mount holes for a variety of reasons. I strongly suggest you have the mast repair inspected by a professional rigger with no financial connection to whoever did the repair.
Also, you might try advertising for a used Catalina 25 mast. I'd take a wild guess one might be had for $1,000 give or take a few hundred depending on condition and what's included. You would likely save a large percentage of the cost by reusing as much of your old rigging hardware as is practical and safe.
Also, be aware C-25s were sold with two different length masts. At 28' I'd say you've got the standard rig. Just be sure to mention length when searching for a used one.
As to your original question, C-25 spreaders are located at the midpoint of the extrusion, as are almost all single spreader rigs. Catalina Yachts has, and can supply you with, a copy of the shop drawing the mast was originally built from. They are very helpful and supportive folks.
Since you're taking this on while still new to sailing, you might benefit from reading "The Complete Rigger's Apprentice" by Brion Toss. As the saying goes, you don't know what you don't know.
-- Leon Sisson <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
You are right the mast extrusion is still listed on their site for about $650 although they have sold the last one from the old stock. I was on the phone with tech support today and a fully rigged mast is now $3050.
Ouch! that was almost as bad as gas prices. Thanks for the infomation, I agree I am not sure how much I would trust it as well. I will be looking for a used mast or maybe buy a new one.
Thanks again.
Michael
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by ClamBeach</i> <br />"Not really sure how much I trust a repaired mast"
Mast failure around the midpoint = real trouble. You're talking about the potential of serious injury, death. Unless the repair was profesionally done by a qualified rigger... I'd opt for a new mast.
"I have talked to Catalina Direct and they have a new one for about $3050 rigged."
Last time I checked you could by a new mast extrusion (the tube) for about $600.
IMHO: Not a lot to 'fitting' it. Drill 3 holes for the spreader bracket bolts, several small holes for the retaining screws of the mast head fitting... a couple screw holes at the bottom for the base plate... oh, and a couple small holes for the steaming light. If your halyard lines aren't lead aft, you'll need to mount a couple cleats. All of this is do-able with a dill motor, center punch and some bits. (and a modicum of mechanical ability) <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by ClamBeach</i> [brIMHO: Not a lot to 'fitting' it. Drill 3 holes for the spreader bracket bolts, several small holes for the retaining screws of the mast head fitting... a couple screw holes at the bottom for the base plate... oh, and a couple small holes for the steaming light. If your halyard lines aren't lead aft, you'll need to mount a couple cleats. All of this is do-able with a dill motor, center punch and some bits. (and a modicum of mechanical ability) <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> There may be a little more to it than that... Remember there are compression tubes inside for the spreader socket bolts--that's always a joy. And other holes should be drilled and then tapped.
For a bare extrusion, you could contact Dwyer, who I believe made (and makes) them for Catalina.
I got a new mast extrusion from Catalina Direct for a C-25 standard rig last year and it cost $914.85. The part number is E1314. I recently looked into a new one for a C-250 and was referred by Catalina to Charleston Spars who quoted a similar price to you. We might have the used spar available. I will check.
"And other holes should be drilled and then tapped."
Dave, Which holes are you thinking about? Not sure that there's any threaded holes in my mast.
Fortunately I didn't have any problems installing my compression tubes. Duct-taped them to the end of a long stick and fished them till they lined up down at the spreaders. Took maybe 20 minutes... though I've heard that other folks had to fight with them.
I think the point I was trying to make was that a couple reasonably competent people could 'dress' the mast in pretty short order. I'd certainly do it for $2,000.. heck, I'd do it for $200!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by ClamBeach</i> <br />"And other holes should be drilled and then tapped."
Dave, Which holes are you thinking about? Not sure that there's any threaded holes in my mast.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> For example, how did you attach the steaming light? If it's with self-tapping screws, well, I'll just say I'm not a fan. (I've used them, but later wished I hadn't.)
It seems to me that the self-tappers always work loose. Drilling and tapping is easy enough to be the correct solution. That being said, PO left me with several self tappers which have not yet worked loose. I just don't trust them.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by crcalhoon</i> <br />It seems to me that the self-tappers always work loose. Drilling and tapping is easy enough to be the correct solution. That being said, PO left me with several self tappers which have not yet worked loose. I just don't trust them. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> My experience is that the first self-tapping installation in aluminum generally holds OK, but if you remove and then re-screw them, all bets are off. And self-tappers seem more prone to corroding and seizing, even with anti-seizing stuff, than machine screws in tapped holes--especially in a salt water environment.
>"For example, how did you attach the steaming light? If it's with self-tapping screws,"
Self tappers seem to have worked just fine on the steaming light for the first 30 years. Same on the masthead, boom end caps, mast base plate etc. Renewed them all a number of years ago and they haven't fallen off yet. :>)
IMHO: For parts that are compression loaded or lightly loaded and don't need to be removed frequently, tapping machine screws with Loctite or some other sealant work fine. Other than the above, sure, tap the holes. Example, for my mast gates (that have to be taken on and off) I tapped the holes. I think that's the only threads in my mast extrusion (forgot about the mast gates the other day).
Ideally as much crap as possible should be tapped and installed with machine screws or put in place with rivets. Good Old Frank B didn't do any of this - sheet metal screws were the fastener of choice for everything from the winches on the mast to the eyelets for the reefing line.
Stuff that you want to remove should be threaded machine screws - lights where you may need to remove to get to the wiring if replaced. Mast gates that come off seasonally (or in my case weekly. I have the version prior to lowell buying the rights and renaming them thus I will call them mast gates. Cam cleats on the mast that might need servicing, Halyard exit plates with moving parts etc.
Permanently fixed boom, exit plates without moving parts, horn cleats, fairleads etc that aren't going anywhere should be riveted.
Clam's use of loctite is dead on- anywhere I have a screw I have loctite.
As for the spar in question above - donate it to the club for a flagpole and contact a spar dealer. You will undoubtedly find something - maybe even new and unfinished for under 800. Do a search on "mast needed" or spars and see if you can find a link to a spar dealer. If you really want to get crazy you can get anything between 28 and 31 feet, but keep in mind you will not be race eligible for the association regattas and will have different sail sizes to. I.E. - no decent used sail market.
Just a thought about getting the compression tubes in place. You could use one of the most valuable tools in your kit.... a couple of packs of Dental Floss! It's so skinny that it will most likely let you get the tubes in place. Just feed the floss (tie a nut to the end and let it drop down the mast tube) from the spreader hole down and out of the end of the mast extrusion. Repeat for the other side of the hole, then thread it though the compression tube and tie the ends togehter. Now pull the floss back out of the entry hole and line the compression tube up, you could leave the floss in place, who cares if it's there.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.