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Reinstalling Teak

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mfasis
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114 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/12/2007 : 13:58:48

After much work, I was finally able to remove all of the exterior teak from my boat. The hatchboard slides and the companionway threshold were both bedded with either 4200 or 5200. Anyway, all pieces are cleaned up and I am in the process of refinishing them with Cetol. I mention this because it relates to my question not to spark another Cetol, Varnish, Oil debate.

My question is this:

After reinstalling the nice and pretty freshly refinished pieces, how do I reinstall the bungs without damaging the new finish? I have searched this site (and others) and all that I have been able to gleam is that I need to to use a very sharp chisel to top the bung after it has been installed. After that, it would seem to me that I would need to re sand and coat with fresh Cetol. Is this correct. Is there an easier way?

Any help is much appreciated.

Mark

Mark Britton
Huntington, NY
'82 C25 FK/SR #3202
"Good News"

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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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Response Posted - 03/12/2007 : 15:52:02

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by mfasis
 ...need to to use a very sharp chisel to top the bung after it has been installed. After that,...sand and coat with fresh Cetol...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">That's the only way I know of to get the plugs sealed in and looking pretty. Where did you encounter plugs? On the handrails? My 1979 C-25 didn't originally have any exterior teak plugs that I recall.

Oh, and when installing the plugs, take a moment to notice which way their grain runs. Try to align it with the surrounding wood, and orient the slope so your very sharp chisel is shaving 'uphill' in the grain to avoid chipping the plug below the finished surface. If in doubt, make your first chisel cut quite high on the plug, so as to break the top off well above the surrounding wood. Then note which way the broken surface slants, and make your subsequent cuts uphill to that.

-- Leon S

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glivs
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Response Posted - 03/12/2007 : 21:16:25

Mark,
I removed and refinished the teak on our boat last spring and encountered the same dilemma. I installed the plugs (hatchboard exterior trim)but in hindsight (and hurry to launch) I trimmed the plugs a bit rich and tried to sand them down only to remove the surrounding Cetol. I reapplied 3 coats of the light. It was close but never (to my eye) hid the patch. It bugged me all summer. As soon as it is warm enough his spring, I intend to resand the front surface of the trim and reapply the Cetol to the entire surface.

My biggest learning curve on reinstalling the teak was the bedding. I was working early in the spring when still rather cool so although I waited two days for the bedding to firm up, it apparently was not long enough. When I tried to trim the excess and remove the painters tape protecting the deck, I ended up with a mess that cost a fair amount of time to clean up.

Edited to correct spelling....

Edited by - glivs on 03/15/2007 19:21:32

Randolph G. Wilson
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Response Posted - 03/13/2007 : 16:05:50

I refinished my handrails and hatchboard trim last year. I bedded the screws in the handrails and plugged them before refinishing the wood with Cetol Light. These screws bolt down from the inside. On my '83 model the companionway pieces that hold the hatch boards in place are attached with wood screws from the inside. No plugs were involved.

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roberoo
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Response Posted - 03/13/2007 : 22:20:44

I am Just now getting my Handrails and hatch Trim ready to re-install and bed. So my questions is this:

When bedding the rails etc. I will do this in April early May. How long do i wait to trim the excess and the tape? Or is there a "Feel" test. Do I use a knife or a putty knife?

The hatchboard rails were bedded in 4200 or 5200 and this is not soft i was going to attack it with a belt sander but thought better of this as it would probably damage the fiberglass. Should I just chip away with a chisel?

Also I am going to drill out the holes a little larger and fill with epoxy and redrill for the handrails.
My brother used MAS Epoxy on his boat and said it was less money then West. Any opinions.

Thanks for the suggestions.

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bear_tm4
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143 Posts

Response Posted - 03/14/2007 : 22:32:29

I just found a product called teak guard that I am going to give a try...there was a guy that owend Catalina 25 that used it and said it was good stuff...so this just search teakguard and you will find it...I got mine at the marine store...along with the vert glass, well thought someone might be interested...it comes with a cleaner..and the teak guard, well, I will leave a pic of before and after and let you know how it works.

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mfasis
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Response Posted - 03/15/2007 : 09:52:11

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Where did you encounter plugs? On the handrails? My 1979 C-25 didn't originally have any exterior teak plugs that I recall.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Leon - That is what I thought. My handrails have plugs on every other loop. I left the plugs alone and just refinished with them in place. The other places that I encountered plugs were the two trim pieces that extend outward of the companionway and also the companionway threshold piece.

glivs - Having the finish not match where the bungs are installed is what I was worried about. Oh well, I guess that I will just have to deal with it. I will probably be the only one that will notice anyway.

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">My biggest learning curve on reinstalling the teak was the bedding. I was working early in the spring when still rather cool so although I waited two days for the bedding to firm up, it apparently was not long enough. When I tried to trim the excess and remove the painters tape protecting the deck, I ended up with a mess that cost a fair amount of time to clean up.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Am I correct in assuming that a good way to rebed is to dry fit everything and mask off the surrounding fiberglass and then apply sealant? Also, I plan to use the blue painters masking tape. Is there a limit to how much time you can leave it on te fiberglass before it leaves a residue? When I painted the bottom last spring I taped off the boot stripe with the same tape and it left a sticky residue that was hard to remove.

One last thing: Now that I am about done refinishing the teak I plan to get out to the boat this weekend to clean up the mess that was the old bedding compound. As I said before I believe that most of it was 4200 or 5200. I thought I would start by using acetone and see where that got me. What are the recommendations for removing old 4200,5200?

Mark

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glivs
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Response Posted - 03/15/2007 : 20:00:04

Mark,
As a relatively new comer to the C25 world I started out very hesitant but in hindsight I would say don't sweat the small stuff, do your homework, go for it, and if it isn't perfect, you will never notice when you are out there sailing. Although I am conscious of my learning curves, in actuality my teak looks worlds better than any other boat on my side of the winter storage yard -- but hey, I might be biased

.

Yes always always dry fit and if at all possible let patience rule. I knew enough to stop when I discovered my bedding had not yet set up but I was in a hurry...famous last words. Yes use painters tape and note there are different grades. Some are designed for delicate surfaces while others have a bit more stick. Name brand (e.g. 3M) should be good for a few days to a few weeks in moderate temps, but on your next trip to your favorite hardware store, pick up some "goof off" or "oops". Either will readily remove any tape residue. I would ask some of the experts but I left about a 1/16" space between the teak and the painters tape to ensure I had enough bedding to form a good seal and then trimmed the excess.

I would search the archives for anything related to teak or bedding posted by Leon. He's the man. A few highlights: don't tighten the fasteners down tight until the bedding has cured, use a single-sided razor to carefully trim close to the edges and then peel off your painters tape. If you are using 3M 101 or similar, any access on the gelcoat can be mostly removed with rubbing alcohol and a soft scrub. Any remaining residue is easily removed using a solvent such as "Release" made by BoatLife.

Cleaning up 4200/5200 is work, but there are some new products that have been identified on this forum (e.g. http://www.marineformula.com/ and I seem to recall someone noting that heat works well).

Have fun.

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