Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
You've got some work to do (to do it right at least).
First of all, you've got to add two lines on the mast - a halyard mounted above and forward of the genoa halyard, and a topping lift to control horizontal pole angle and outboard height. The topping lift usually exits at about halfway up the mast. You should also add some track on the front of the mast to allow adustment of the inboard height. The pole should be approximately horizontal. In order to gibe the chute it's halyard turning block MUST be above and forward of the genoas. Note that the mast is not really set up for any of this stuff when it leaves the factory.
Technically, you'll need two "guys" as well as the active and lazy sheets. The active guy controls the horizontal position of the outboard end of the pole and also holds it down. But, for a 25 footer, you can skimp on this setup and use the lazy sheet as the guy.
On a 25 footer with a lightweight shorter pole ("J" length, maybe 2 1/2 inch diameter) you can easily get by doing end to end gibes - where the pole is passed thru the triangle, inboard end becomes outboard end, etc.). Don't skimp and put a non-adjustable eye on the front of the mast to attach the inboard pole end. You really need some adjustment here, maybe 2 feet of track will do. If you sail off shore in heavier conditions I would think about a longer track that will allow the pole to be dipped when gibing (inboard end raised to allow outboard end to pass thru triangle).
Similar rigging is needed to go downwind wing on wing with a whisker pole. But, depending on the size of the genoa, a longer pole could be needed.
Where you really thinking symmetrical? An asymmetrical works nearly as good under some conditions, and better in others. And it's a lot easier to rig and sail with. No pole.
Charlie (Sterngucker) is flying a sym spin on his boat that I sold him. He is flying it as an asym without pole. Works great on a reach. Can not go quite as deep as my poled spin.
I'd post this on the General Board because there is nothing special about rigging the C250 for a spin compared to a C25 or Capri.
I can second the [url="http://www.amazon.com/Sail-Rig-Tuning-Ivar-Dedekam/dp/1898660670"]book[/url] Sean mentioned, I've been learning all kinds of stuff out of it. Since I don't have a good feel for how the rig should be tuned on the boat yet, I wanted a guide to work from. This book has lots of good pictures with very good accompanying text. Some things I thought I understood I realized I didn't after reading this book, and now I do.
I don't have a spinnaker, so consider the source. The owner's manual has some spinnaker setup info. The masthead diagram shows the spinnaker halyard block. The jib furler allows the existing jib halyard to be used for the spinnaker pole guy. The deck plan diagram shows a spinnaker halyard rope clutch and cheek block.
I hope it helps, but you probably already knew it. Russ #793
Thanks all. Russ, no, I did not think to look in the owners manual.
And in response to CaptnRon, yes, I was thinking a symmetrical, after just finishing a North U course that taught me that asyms need to be sailed 30 degrees off the wind.
I am rethinking though, because GaryB, who sails the part of the river I will sail on most now (as opposed to where I was last year) says that if you get only one (asym or sym), he would get an asym, because it requires less crew (he has single handed his) and because (for him)it does nearly as well downwind as his sym.
I am going to talk to a couple of local sailmakers, see what they have to say. The issue is that where I sailed before, we very frequently were sailing near dead downwind, and there is not enough room in the river to reach back and forth. So I really want the best performance near downwind as I can get, but Gary has probably convinced me that the tradeoffs (more crew required) may make an asym the best choice for me.
If you're spending a lot time going almost dead down wind, think about flying a 135 (or so) wing-on-wing with a longer pole. When you've got some wind, it's a pretty effective way to move the boat when it's on your back. I've spent many hours on my 400 this way. Rig a preventer to keep the main under control. The symmetrical chute will work too, but note that a significant portion of the sail will be in the main's shadow, and gibing it can be a challenge. Forget about single handed. You're right - asymmetricals work better in the 80 to 150 degree zone - dead down wind puts it squarely in the shadow.
I never took a good look at the owners manual, but I seem to remember (from the two times I rigged it) that there are no exits for additional halyards inside the mast - so external may be the only way. Is there a hole on the mast top plate above and forward of the genoa halyard to mount a turning block? If you've got the room you can always make one.
Wing on wing with a 135 on a whisker pole is how I raced all last year. The spinnaker guys kicked my butt. Maybe I was doing something else wrong...but if I recall correctly, I was doing OK against similar size boats without kites...
Well, now I have gotten equal portions of opposite advice. Time to go sailing... ;-)
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by SEAN</i> <br />We bought a book from west marine , "sail & rig tunning" by Ivar Dedekam Its a great book with plenty of pictures . their is a chapter on spinnakers .
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.