Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Hello, Im new to this forum and boat and have a couple of questions. Ill ask them sepearately for archival purposes.
I have a wb 250, probably 2004 model, and really dont like the way it sails or motors. Im going to try adding the ballast to the bow for help in preventing her from heading up. I split the boat with a friend and he likes the sloppy edson wheel, although he never sails. Im finding the boat has a large turn radius under power and am wondering if swithcing back to the tiller will help. The wheel also takes up a lot of room back there. I dont know which rudder I have nor a way of distinguishing. I have a 9.9 heavy 4 stroke on the back which I find I have to use in addition to the wheel to get the boat to turn quickly. Its a Yamaha with a transmission lever so Im really struggling steering in tight quarters using the wheel, the engine, and changing the motor to reverse. I need another hand or a better setup.
Welcome to the forum, your first question is one that has often surfaced around here - and both camps have their reasons for loving their choice.
Our C250 WB (2005) has the wheel, primarily the choice was made to make life easier for my partner.
We find we can steer a pretty tight turn: we have setup the Soft Link (line from rudder to engine and bungee from engine to aft cleat.) and that makes it uneccessary to touch the engine other than make gear/throttle changes. I'm playing with a modified softlink because we had the engine swing around and scar the rudder twice!
There is a accessory for our engine (Tohatsu 9.8 long shaft) that moves the throttle and gear change from the engine to a remote, in retrospect I wish we had taken that option at the outset.
Welcome to the forum. I had similar problems when I first started. Here's a few tips.
1) Steering under power is best done with rudder and outboard. It's easy to have one fight the other. My problem was I could tell if the outboard was straight, but I would have to look back to see if the rudder was straight. Not an easy thing when you're about to hit the dock. I used rope to mark the center position. I can now look forward or feel if the wheel is in the right position. See picture below.
2) Turning the wheel is the opposite of the outboard. Turn to Port, wheel left and outboard tiller right. I learned that the hard way. I turn the wheel left and hold it with my knees then work the outboard.
3) There is a soft-link that many people have installed. It connects the outboard to the rudder, so all steering is done by the wheel.
4) The sloppy Edson steering can be adjusted. My steering cables were installed upside down and with maximum slack. See the 2 pictures below.
5) To help with the weatherhelm/heading up you can adjust the sail balance With the standard 110% jib, it's easy to get overpowered by the main. Move the Jib cars all the way forward on the track. I was surprised how much power this gave the jib and helped with the weatherhelm.
6) I keep my fresh water tank full. The 12 gallons in the v-berth helps keep the bow lower and tracks better.
7) I also installed an extra water tank (it works the best when there are 6 people aboard). I wouldn't go down that path until you have tried tips first. Here's a link to an earlier topic --> [url="http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=13121"] Extra Water Tank for more Bow Weight [/url]
I hope this helps Russ #793
Mark the wheel center position
Edson steering cables installed upside down and slack. Notice the cable frame, left is low and right is high.
Cables installed correctly and slack removed. Note: The cable tension changes from center to hard port/starboard. Make the cables snug at Port/Starboard and there will be some play at center. If the cables squeek, groan, or bind they are too tight. Notice the slack was taken out of both cables. This helps keep the wheel and rudder aligned (from step-1).
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.