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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
So I've had my c-25 inboard for a little more than a year and most of that time the wooden enclosure around the inboard has been off. Just makes it much easier to keep an eye on things and work around the engine. I've been thinking of putting the 2 pieces of wood on hinges or into slides so that they can be taken off quicker than having to unscrew all the screws. Anybody done this job and how did you do it?
Daniel 86 "Solar Wind" #5339 C-25 FK/SR I/B Diesel
Not sure you'll find many with the inboard option. I'm willing to bet that only a handfull of us even knows what the interior of a C25 with an inboard engine looks like. I'm curious. Got any pictures?
I would say though that anything that makes life simpler is best so long as fumes and noise don't become a problem.
I too would like to see some pictures of an inboard.
This last weekend was my first time out in 25mph winds, and rough water. The waves really work the outboard and bracket. I may make a strap to give it a little extra support.
what kind of engine is it? where is it mounted?
piano type hinges might make you access easier. good luck!
Daniel, I Hadn't really thought about making it easier. As you probably found out last year, once the preseason work is done, you don't need to have full access till fall. I do understand not wanting to have to take all the screws out of the panels. The only problem I can see with the panels hinged is less ceiling hight or less space in an already limited area.
What I would like to figure out, is how to sound proof the area to quiet the inboard.
I too have an inboard except it is a saildrive. I need to build an enclosure. I was thinking about making it out of fiberglass and polyester resin. And insulate it big time. I'm interested in what you come up with.
The engine is a Universal M-12 10 hp 2 cylinder diesel that started right up after being on the hard for 5 years without use by the PO. Fuel tank is forward on port side under the v berth. I'll post some pictures soon for you to get a look. Oil changes and maintenance is challenging. Without the wooden panels everything is just so much easier but noise is a consideration, you're right. Maybe we could glue the noise insulation to the wooden panels and have the long at least swing up and out of the way. I don't think I will ever use the berth back there for anything other than storage or for access to the motor. Actually, for the small panel that is directly behind the ladder, I'm not sure that it has enough room behind it to accomodate any sound insulation. I'll have to check. Thanks for all your suggestions. I'm going to check into the DZUS fasteners.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dblitz</i> <br />Without the wooden panels everything is just so much easier but noise is a consideration, you're right. Maybe we could glue the noise insulation to the wooden panels and have the long at least swing up and out of the way.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Just keep in mind that the engine compartment has a bunch of rotating and moving parts and the engine is hot (I mean diesel hot). without the cover, you have a risk of something falling onto the engine and melting, catching fire, breaking, damaging the engine, etc. I have had the quarterberth-side panel off for a while (to repair the panel) and everytime we go sailing I have to crawl into the q-berth and make sure there is nothing in there or at the aft end of the settee that can fall into the engine compartment. My panel has these two removable "windows" that are too small to do anything, so as part of the repair I was thinking about closing those off and making the whole thing easier to remove. I'll look into those fasteners also.
I went looking for the dzus fasteners this weekend. While I didn't find them, someone at a marina suggested I just use velcro for the two panels. He said there is velcro out there (like the type sold to fix the ezpass transponder on the windshield) that is very, very strong. I think he may have a good point. Velcro would probably work well. I will try it and let you all know. By the way, are any of you aware of an easy way to remove the cabin ladder? I had to change a hose last week. It was a job that took me almost 4 hours and I'm still not back to my full height after spending all that time folded around the ladder.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dblitz</i> <br />By the way, are any of you aware of an easy way to remove the cabin ladder?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
If I remember correctly, there are two screws on the top step to port, one bolt on the top of the starboard stringer, and one bolt on each leg to the floor.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dblitz</i> <br />Finally was able to get at the pictures of the inboard on my boat. Here they are: hope you can see them <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Permission not granted, it happens a lot with Yahoo, I use the storage that comes with my cable modem account.
Thanks all, I switched to Ringo and can see them now. Sorry you can't see the hose that took me all afternoon to change. By the way, to those (very few) of you with inboards. All last year, I had an issue in getting the alternator belt tight, actually I couldn't figure out how to do it with a screwdriver or pry bar. I was able to do it very easily with a piece of wood (2X2) and about 10 inches long. Just wanted to mention it to any of you that might be interested.
second, now that I see the pictures, I understood the question about removing the steps. The two sides of our steps are the same and they both look like your (this took me a few rounds of turning the picture around in my head) starboard side. In any case, I have removed the ladder a few times to get underneath it, seems to be worth the extra time.
third, I believe the reason soundproofing will be difficult is the following: when you lift the panel in your first picture (which should be where the water intake is) there is no wall between that area and the engine compartment. You'd have to seal that panel down somehow to get soundproofing to work better. So far our solution is to stay topsides when the engine is running
In the c250 it sits right under the companionway. The engine box lifts off completely, giving unrestricted access on 3 sides (forward, aft, and starboard side). Access on the port side is slightly restricted (in comparison to the other three sides) by the bulkhead between the head compartment and the main cabin.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.