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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Chainplate install mess

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sodonnell
1st Mate

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76 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/06/2007 : 21:33:37

At the end of last season, I replaced the bulkhead in my 1980 C25 SK.
On port side where the chainplate is bolted to.

I ended up only being able to anchor the lower 3 bolts of the chainplate into the bulkhead. I didn't drop the plate down far enough to allow the top most hole in the chain plate to clear the fiberglass that hangs from the top of the cabin (on the side of the dinette table).

So long story short, I can't install the topmost bolt in my chainplate.

Do I
a.) drill a hole slightly lower in the chainplate to get the fourth bolt in?
b.) Leave it alone with only 3 bolts?
c.) Take it like a man, remove the new bulkhead and start again?

Scott

Edited by - on

Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 04/06/2007 : 21:45:24

Leave it alone. At the bottom of the chain plate you have 3 - 3/8" diameter bolts. At the top there is one 5/16" pin. If the pin at the top can handle all the load, 3 bolts at the bottom certainly can.
I can see how this will drive you nuts, but don't worry about it.

Edited by - on

Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 04/06/2007 : 21:53:24

Or if it drives you crazy enough, drop the chain plate down and drill all new holes.
Then hang one of these over the holes on the dinnette side.

The chain plate will cover the holes in the head side.

Edited by - on

ct95949
Captain

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Aruba
300 Posts

Response Posted - 04/07/2007 : 11:16:14

If the new holes end up too close to the old holes for peace of mind a nice piece of birch plywood or something similar on the dinette side would replace the shear strength. I plan on doing this to repair some slight dry rot at the chainplate.

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Bill Holcomb
Admiral

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USA
769 Posts

Response Posted - 04/08/2007 : 09:48:41

Hi Scott,

One thought in favor of getting the chainplate in the correct position is that the way everything is now means that the turnbuckle that adjusts the upper shroud may be up too high off the deck. You might not be able to adjust the upper shrouds to get the mast properly tuned when you set up the boat.

An easy fix would be to fill the present chainplate bolt holes with a dowel of the proper size. Use epoxi to glue the dowels in place then stain them to match the rest of the bulkhead. When this is done, you can reposition the chainplate to the proper position.

Bill Holcomb - C25 Snickerdoodle #4839

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crcalhoon
Captain

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USA
303 Posts

Response Posted - 04/09/2007 : 09:38:15

I think that it will probably be fine. Another question is what type of plywood did you use to make the bulkhead? I used birch, which is relatively inexpensive, so cost is not really a factor. If you are overly concerned, it would be a simple matter to remove the bulkhead, use it for a router template and just make another one.

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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 04/09/2007 : 13:57:45

I was going to suggest plugging the existing holes with poured epoxy, then redrilling correctly located ones. I like Bill Holcomb's idea even better, and I agree about the importance of getting the chainplate back where it belongs.

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 04/09/2007 : 14:09:50

I was thinking about the turnbuckle position too, as Bill mentioned. It sounds like the chainplate is a little high now, and the turnbuckle might not be able to tension the upper shroud properly to keep the mast vertical. Dowels in the holes should provide the strength for new holes that are nearby--however I'm not so sure about how well stain will work on the epoxy...

If they're pretty tight, I don't see a need for glue--the fender washers will probably cover them at least partially.

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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 04/09/2007 : 18:16:38

Re: "--however I'm not so sure about how well stain will work on the epoxy"

Cut and install the dowels a bit long -- proud of the bulkead -- then carefully trim them flush, while also removing any epoxy from the exposed ends of the dowels. Then stain. Or, get dowels of matching wood to begin with. Since they're to be so short, the quickest, cheapest approach might be to turn them at home (or in a well equipped neighbor's shop

).

-- Leon S.

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sodonnell
1st Mate

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76 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2007 : 12:13:23

All,

Thanks for all the input.
I used Teak plywood, so I was hoping to save myself from wasting it.
I imagine I will go the long road and replace the whole piece.
I think I can reuse it elsewhere.

Scott

Edited by - on

Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2007 : 06:53:38

Scott,
Where did you get your teak plywood?
When I installed my bulkhead, I laid the original bulkhead on top of the new piece. I drilled only the bottom hole for the chainplate. Then install the bulkhead and chainplate and mark the remaining three holes. That assures perfect alignment.
Maybe just make a new chainplate, shorter on top?
My teak plywood was expensive as the devil and I would not want to replace it either.
Check the shrouds and see if the turnbuckle is out of adjustment first.
Maybe get a Norse fitting and shorten the shroud.
How far too high is the chainplate?
As you can see on my bulkhead, the top screw is up real close. How much higher is yours?

The piece on the port side is large enough to use for the starboard side.
I sure feel for you.

Edited by - on

crcalhoon
Captain

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USA
303 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2007 : 09:08:17

I got about as lucky as Dan did. I did the starboard side first and neglected to pull the chainplate all the way down. However, it wasn't off by much and I was able to get the top bolt in--barely. That much wiser, I pulled it down right on port side and no problem. Another quarter inch on the starboard side and I would have been in the same mess. I really felt goofy about it, but am conforted by the fact that others have had the same problem.

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sodonnell
1st Mate

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76 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2007 : 10:47:54

Hey Dan,

I have my chainplate just higher than yours in the picture.
Just down to where it runs right into the fiberglass lip that hangs down in your picture.

I think I have enough left over from the sheet I bought to cut another and resuse this one elsewhere.

Funny thing is if you look at the chainplate from the topside, it doesn't look high at all.

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Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2007 : 15:24:29

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I have my chainplate just higher than yours in the picture.
Just down to where it runs right into the fiberglass lip that hangs down in your picture.

I think I have enough left over from the sheet I bought to cut another and resuse this one elsewhere.

Funny thing is if you look at the chainplate from the topside, it doesn't look high at all.
Go to Top of Page<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

OK, so that begs the question, "Where is your chaniplate in reference to one at the correct location?"
So to answer that question, I installed my bulkhead and chainplate. I dropped the escutcheon over the chainplate and measured from the top of the escutcheon to the center of the shroud pin hole. It measures 7/8" from the escutcheon to the center of either hole. I'll bet your only off by 1/8" or so.

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