Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
We took the Nauti Duck out for its maiden voyage last night. This boat is S-W-E-E-T!
With winds at 10 MPH everything was smooth and we hit 5.2 KPH. Appropriate libations were shared throughout the cruise. We moved to our new slip which is a sail-straight-in situation.
I do have a few controls questions:
The cringle at the tack of the mainsail - what does it attach to and using what hardware? I used a short line to tie it to the gooseneck.
The boom vang sheet only goes halfway back to the cockpit - is that typical?
The cam cleat at the bottom of the boom vang system releases at the bottom and it is about impossible to leverage the line down to release it. Do people raise the vang mechanism to get better leverage?
For the jib sheets the only way to secure the active sheet was to use the winch. Our C22 had cam cleats for this purpose which seems much easier. Have you modified your 250 for this?
Again, we were high-fiving after the cruise. We love our 250!!
We cannot direct the winds but we can adjust our sails.
Hey Randy, congrats on getting her going forwards! Awesome!
I think we all agree about the vang issue. Someone modified the cam cleat position so that it pointed higher and was easier (rather than impossible without reaching forward over the cabin roof) to release.
Never had any other 'big' boat I can't say about the jib sheets except that if they were in a cam cleat, then it would make it tough to adjust from behind the wheel. Again, some have added winches to the cockpit coamings to assit in single handing.
Our boat was new and the sail is still in tight shape so we have not had to use the cringle yet. Although I do use the reefing cringle often.
Being you have a wk, you should have self tailing winches on your cabin top. Thats all you need to secure the jib sheets, 3 or four wraps around the winch drum and then around the self tailing part of the winch and your done.
Your right about the boom vane. The line is short and the vane is tough to use because of the angle of the clam cleat. I rarely use it because of the difficultly involved.
I wonder how the boom vang would work if you swapped ends - put the block with the cam cleat on the boom. Would the line be easier to cleat and uncleat?
I replaced the fiddle block that has the cam cleat with one that doesn't and ran the line through an added deck organizer back to a rope clutch so I can adjust it from the cockpit.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Bubba</i> <br />I wonder how the boom vang would work if you swapped ends - put the block with the cam cleat on the boom. Would the line be easier to cleat and uncleat?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Exactly what I was thinking--never having really looked at it on a 250...
If I am reading this correctly you attached the mainsail tack cringle with a line to the boom? There should be about a two inch long "D" shackle that attaches it to the boom.
If you look close you can see the shackle from the cringle to the boom. Sorry I don't have a better picture. As for the vang line length mine goes back and drops into the cabin to the floor with the cabin sliding top closed. The release is a problem, but if you go to Aryln's web site you will see how to solve that problem.
You had wind! I went out today and sat in the 90 degree heat with no wind and played the guitar. It was a good day.
The tack attaches the the boom were it swivels at the mast connection with a 3" shackle.
The line on your boom vang may have been cut. I believe the spec sheet called for 50'. I would have to confirm. I tried moving the blocks with the cam cleat to the mast connection point; it did not work well either. I by passed the cam cleat and run it to the rope clutch on the port side via deck organizer. It does not get much use.
Your boat should have the big Harken 16 self tailing winches. I leave the genoa sheets on the winches and go to a port tack if I need to adjust the main. I have found no need for any additional cleats.
Randy, adding a one to one & a half foot line between the mast connection point and the boom vang raises the cam cleat and makes for smoother boom vang operation.....especially if the boom vang line comes back into the cockpit like it does on #702... and is being adjusted from the cockpit.
I was in Eugene last weekend for a night. Thought about and wondered what was happening out at Fern Ridge but didn't make the time to go see.
I added a fairlead and cam cleat for each of my jib sheets. The fairlead because the jib sheet would cross-wrap on the winch. It now lowers the angle and fixed the problem.
The cam cleat because I converted from one-line reefing to two-line reefing and ran the reef lines to the cockpit.
The cam cleats are only used for a few minutes during reefing. The starboard cam cleat holds the jib sheet while the main halyard is on the winch. The port cam cleat holds the jib sheet while the reef line is on the winch. I don't use the winch handle during reefing, just the self-tailing while the rope clutch is open. When the reefing is finished, the sheets are back on the winches.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.