Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I've noticed a few holes (3) appearing in the cockpit. I've covered them with tape temporarily, but now is the time to fix them. I received a pint of gel coat from Catalina that matches my 250, but have a few questions about going about this repair. The holes seem to be air bubbles that must have gotten in the mold when the deck was formed. I haven't looked how deep they are yet and they are about 1/4" x 1/8" in size.
Do I fill them with epoxy and a filler first allowing it to bulge out and sand later or do I fill to a slight depression and top with the gel coat?
Also, what would be an appropriate hardener for the gel coat? Catalina could not send the hardener through the mail and told me to pick some up anywhere. Right. I believe I'm to use a polyester resin hardener.
I assume I cover the area around the repair with masking tape. What is the trick with plastic wrap and gel coat.
A lot of the pro's thicken the gel coat with powdered cotton when dealing with small to mid size patches or holes. You can probably pick up the hardner at West Marine. I thought I had some, but when I just checked we saved the aquanet hairspray and pitched everything else...go figure!!! Unfortunately, you might have to buy the entire shebang to get the hardener.
If the areas are small enough you won't need the plastic. Polyvinyl alcohol or aquanet hairspray is what most people I know use instead of the saran wrap.
Same thing you would do with the Polyvinyl or the saran wrap. I might not get the terminology here, but Gel coat sets up in the absence of oxygen. The Aquanet is way cheaper than the polyvinyl alcohol and just as effective. Without removing its air source the stuff would stay gooey for a long long time
What Catalina told Turk to buy locally might be the catalyst, which is problematic to ship because it's hazardous. (So be carefull!) I believe it's the same stuff for all polyester resins. As mentioned above, you also need to deprive the resin of air to get it to harden tack-free. (The "stays tacky" feature is helpful in building up laminations in a large mold, but not so helpful in getting the final coat of resin to harden completely.)
I agree with strengthening the gelcoat with fibers to make a colored filler putty for small cavities. Depending on the fiber used, you may want to also apply a thin final coat w/o fibers.
A little advice here, as I feel I have done a fair share of Gelcoat work.
1. MEKP is the hardner (cancer in a bottle)be carefull, wear gloves and eye wear.
2. you don't need to thicken the gelcoat, it is just a colored polyester resin. If the holes are not bad, then I would fill the holes, and let it come up off of the surface about 1/8". Get some 320 grit, sand light, then get some black laqure, and spray a light mist over the surface, sand it down with 400, the laqure will show the high and low spots. sand then with 600 wet and dry, compound, polish then wax.
PVA is used to spray a light mist over the gelcoat to setup, or KICK. you can use allot of different things, I used wax paper, but the PVA is the best way to go. (1) it has a purple tint to it, and (2) it doesn't mix with the gelcoat. and (3) it cleans up with water.
Get a scrap and play around with it, Its really neat stuff to work with.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.