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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
OK, let's get the joke out of the way. Gotta be one here, bedding a screw, use a wench, I dunno...
Anyway, I attached my tiller extension socket to my tiller last night with two wood screws. I plan to put a Can-Sail Tiller Lock on my tiller this weekend, which uses two screws as well.
I got to thinking about it: should I be sealing these screws somehow, to prevent water from getting into the tiller? If so, how?
Thanks in advance for the help.
Kevin Mackenzie Former Association Secretary and Commodore "Dogs Allowed" '06 C250WK #881 and "Jasmine" '01 Maine Cat 30 #34
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by fhopper@mac.com</i> <br />I think buying a new tiller every three to five years is a good thing. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Actually, I agree (let's say 5-10 years), but the correct answer is ABSOFRIGGINGLUTELY. See my reply to Dan in the Epoxy thread--it mostly applies.
I read your reply, but I am wondering how to do this with a screw, not a bolt. If I fill and oversize pilot hole with epoxy, then redrill the hole after the expoxy cures, will I be able to get the screw in? Will it hold like it would with wood? (would with wood, man this thread is going to be full of jokes)
Maybe a new tiller every 5 years...
Randy,
I am actually suprised there aren't more so far... :-)
Has the association ever had a single thread that contained the words, bedding, screw, wench, wood, tool, oil, tequila, extension, moisture, mounting, and ABSOFRIGGINGLUTELY??
I'd suggest some sort of thin bedding goo, such as 3M 4200. The way to use epoxy in this situation is to drill the screw hole, be sure it's the right size for the screw (or visa versa), coat the inside of the hole with as much unthickened epoxy as practical without it oozing out and making a mess. Install and tighten the woodscrew while the epoxy is still wet.
If you ever need to get the screw out, there are a couple of options. One would be to apply a very thin, tough lube to the screw befor installing it. (Axle grease wiped mostly off, heated wax, be resourceful.) The other method is to heat the head of the screw with a soldering iron when removing it. These methods can of course be combined.
"Has the association ever had a single thread that contained the words, bedding, screw, wench, wood, tool, oil, tequila, extension, moisture, mounting, and ABSOFRIGGINGLUTELY??"
Heh. Over on SA this topic would have 10,000 posts by now... none of which would have anything remotely to do with boats.
Kevin--you really got something going here... Frankly, in a tiller, I'd drill a normal hole, fill it with caulk, put a little caulk on the fitting, and screw it on. These laminated tillers don't last forever regardless--eventually a little moisture gets in around the mounting bolts, and then somebody slips and sits on the tiller...<b><i>crrrrack!</i></b> I seriously would replace it at least every 10 years--for .6 boat unit, it's good insurance, and the new one looks great.
To get fancy, you overdrill, fill with epoxy, coat the screw with spray-on furniture wax, set it into the epoxy, and let it cure. Then you back the screw out (leaving perfect threads) and attach your hardware. But I'm not convinced that oversized hole isn't going to compromise the strength of the tiller, even when filled with epoxy. (Some would argue it makes it stronger--I dunno...)
I installed the Can-Sail a few months ago. Maybe I didn't go to great enough lengths, but I just predrilled the holes and filled them with lifecalk and screwed them down. Took about three minutes. I do use a tiller cover, which should keep some moisture out, but I think it will hold up for a long time.
bedding screw and a wench etc? HMMMMMM. A couple years ago I tried to post a response with the name of a local lake, and my post was rejected...the offending word: Minnewanka. What's next, advertising?!?!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Nautiduck</i> <br />Stampeder, sorry to hear about your mini wanka. I'm sure you'll find a mate. Just keep looking. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> He just needs to find someone with a mini hooha. (I'm outa here!)
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by fhopper@mac.com</i> <br />I think buying a new tiller every three to five years is a good thing. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Hmmm. I guess you have stock in a tiller corporation (Troy-Bilt?).
As far as I know, mine is original to the boat (1985). It's kept covered in the summer, and in the garage in the winter, and I put a coat of varnish on it every year.
Which means this will be the year it splinters one windy day.
I replaced my tiller about five years ago. This replacement tiller is kept covered and it winters inside my garage. I don't see any reason to replace it anytime soon.
Mine looked perfect until it cracked from the butt (fuggetaboutit!) along the lamination by the holes between the mounting plates. I lashed it with some rigging tape and completed the trip.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.