Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I may have found a new home for Weeny Bean, but the slip in question does not have a floating dock. I have never moored to a fixed dock/pilings and would like to know how difficult it can be. Does anyone have any experience with this?
Tray: Having completed a 3-day sailing class in June, I can say it's pretty easy. The boat we learned on was moored so we had to learn it right off the bat. It's just a matter of coming to a stop at the right place and having a good hand with the boat hook. I haven't done it since the class, but I think we had to come into the ball into the wind.(I hope that is correct-or that my teacher isn't reading this.) Obviously it's not fun having to get a ride to and from the mooring....but you do what you have to.
I think you misunderstood. I'm not referring to a mooring buoy, I'm referring to a slip in a marina that does not have a floating dock. In other words the boat will rise and fall with the tide, but the dock will not.
Tray, one of the first things you will want to do in a permanent slip is put together a fender board. Something like a 2x6 between the dock & your boats fenders to protect your boat from the pilings as it swings in the slip. You also want to try to use spring lines but that’s easier said than done. Most slips are made to accommodate boats larger than our 25’s, which makes docking challenging to say the least. With the motor on the back I haven’t been successful in crossing the stern lines like I’ve done on larger boats. Each slip is different with the size & placement of the pilings so you’ll have to play with the lines until "Weeny Bean" rides properly in the slip. Be sure to take a buddy with you the first time to help with the lines. Once you get the lengths right you’re set, until the next big storm but spidering can be another topic.
It shouldn't matter if they float or not. Non floating docks however will require a bit more accuracy with the fenders.
Here is one of the easiest docking set-ups and makes it simple to dock singlehanded. I dock starboard to so if your a port to, reverse everything.
While still at the dock tie a spring line from the last post on your dock to the forward winch (if you only have one winch it will do). When you leave the dock, be sure to put this line somewhere within reach. This is where the dock catcher would work great.
Have your fenders set well in advance. Who cares if you look like a stink boater coming in.
As you approach the dock on the return, grab the spring line and throw it on the winch. Two things here, 1. this will keep you from going too far forward and crashing the dock. 2. This isn't a speed brake, you still need to approach the dock gently and slowly. The winch will be able to take the load, but not repeadetly at 5 knots.
If at this point you push your tiller to port, the boat will round into the dock (remember you already put out your fenders)
Grab you starboard stern line and attach that too. With those two on the boat won't be able to drift left into Captain Dave's boat or whatever DBO docks next to you.(Ever notice the guy next to you at the marina is always the moron, I wonder if they think that too?).
At this point, it should be really easy for someone to get off and cleat the bow.
After copying this from a different post, I have come to realize that maybe by floating docks, you might have meant finger docks, that is the extension coming off the dock that you can pull up next to.
If this is the case, and you don't mind stepping off the bow, then do the exact same thing, putting the spring line on one of the aft pilings. This will keep you from going forward. After that, grab the other lines and hook everything up.
If you would prefer to back in, unless someone can think of a better method, the one we always used was take it slow and use more manpower than engine or sail power and try not to look like 2 monkeys and the proverbial football...If you can, cross the lines off your pilings.
Our club has some slips with pilings set away from the floating docks (no finger docks) where the tide rises 6.5 - 9 feet, and more in big storms. On the pilings, they use wood collars--square boxes made of something like 2x3s with an eye on one corner for permanently attaching a mooring line. The collar slides up and down on the piling. A hook high on the piling can hold the free end of the line while you're out. If your tides are more than a couple of feet (remember storm tides as well), you'll probably need some similar device.
If your tides are less than a couple of feet, lines fixed at mid-tide level (below the dock) might do the job if they're long enough so the angles are shallow (lengthwise and crossing the transom). I'd be nervous about ripping my cleats off, but our tides are pretty big. I've seen arrangements with weights and blocks to allow the length to change while maintaining some tension, but I haven't seen that with boats our size. Again, keep storm tides in mind.
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette "Passage" in SW CT
I have never been in a fixed dock slip. But my friend's boat near New Bedford, MA is in a fixed dock slip. The main issue I notice is the difficulty in lifting heavy stuff from the boat to the dock at low tide (or going the other way -- loading the boat). Two people, one on the dock and one in the boat, helps greatly. He backs his boat in, which also helps.
Cleaning the hull (or some other servicing work) could also be more difficult with a fixed dock slip.
Bringing the boat into the slip seems to be the same as with a floating dock. The use/non-use of fenders/bumpers is mostly dependant on your motoring skills and the size of the slip relative to the boat.
When leaving the slip, he hangs the four mooring lines on nails driven into the corner pilings at strategic heights -- making it easy to grap the loops with the boat hook upon his return.
The length of the mooring lines are adjusted so that they keep the boat from touching the pilings, while taking into account the extra length necessary for changing tides.
A fixed dock is not much different from a floating dock (although I've only docked at a floating dock a couple times). The big concern is tying your boat off enough to account for the tides. If you tie your lines too tight & get an extreme low tide you'll be hanging from your dock lines, too loose & you'll hit the dock at high tide! <img src=icon_smile_shock.gif border=0 align=middle>
Pay close attention the first weekend you're there & check the position of your boat at high & low tide. Once you've got your dock lines in a good spot - mark where you tie them off with tape so you'll know just where they go every time. Fenders are also a good idea. <img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle> Spring lines would be nice, but on the C250 they don't work because they get caught on the outboard.
I tried to draw a diagram as to how we tie our boat, made a jpeg out of it but I do not know how to attach it to the forum.
We back into our slip and have a finger pier on our port side. Tidal differences range about two to three feet. Maybe a little more when the wind blows the water out of the bay. The slip is arranged with two piles (port and starboard) slightly ahead of the bow, two piles amidship (the portside one holding the end of the finger pier) and two piles astern supporting the main pier. We use nine lines to moor the boat. Two bow lines (one port and one starboard) running from the forward cleats to the forward piles. Two stern lines from the stern cleats to the piles on the main pier. In addition we use a fore and aft spring line on each side. The ninth line is looped on the winch and is tied to the pile at the end of the finger pier and is used to pull the boat against the fingerpier when moving between boat and shore.
The bow lines are of a length to keep the bow from touching the outboard pile of the opposite side.
The forward spring lines also attach to the bow cleat and run back to to the piles on the main pier. The aft springlines attach to the stern cleats and run forward to the piles at the front of the slip ( the ones on which the bow lines are attached). These lines which are thirty foot plus in length provide plenty of spring and keep the boat centered fore and aft in the slip. The length also accomdates the tidal differences with little stress.
The starboard stern line is adjusted to keep the stern port quarter off of the finger pier.
We have a large fender attached to the pile at the end of the finger pier to protect the boat from actually touching the pier and we hang a fender off the starboard side to protect from hitting the middle pile of that side.
The boat remains in the center of the slip under most conditions. Occasional the wind might force it to one side or the other. By using the long spring lines port and starboard we miss fouling the rudder and outboard overhanging the stern.
Hey Tray, Where did you find a slip? I had a fixed slip at NAS Jaxs. I used rubber snubbers to help with the tide and weather. I ran two lines forward off the bow cleats and two lines from the hip or Jib sheet cleats. This four point mooring set-up worked well on the river. Max in Maryland
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.