Association Forum - Flushing the outboard

Assn Members Area · Join

Home.

Association Forum

Ships Store

Cruising

Racing

Technical Tips

Photo Gallery - New

Boat Search - Updated

Manuals & Brochures

Swap Meet

Links

Officer Flag Line & Staff

Bylaws & Constitution

Members Area

Join the Association

Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.

Association Forum

Username:	Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

All Forums

Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

General Sailing Forum

Flushing the outboard

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Author

Topic

tingwc
1st Mate

Member Avatar

31 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/09/2007 : 17:53:20

How often do you guys flush your outboard? Every time after you go out?

I just replaced my old outboard this season. I never flushed it during the season, I just ran it through a bucket of fresh water before I stored it for the winter, but I just read the manual and it said I should be flushing it after each use in salt/sea water. I can't really find the flushing attachment, for starters, and secondly, it says I have to remove the propeller before flushing. This seems impossible if the boat is at dock at a slip.

What do you guys do? If it helps, I have a 6 HP Tohatsu motor, 2006 model.

Wallace Ting
Queens, NYC
1988 WK

Edited by - on

atgep
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

1009 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2007 : 18:32:42

There are a few ways to do this.

The manual requires the removal of the prop for liability reasons. Because some idiot will cut his hand off removing the flushing ears. I use regular ears and the washdown pump to empty the carb. I disconnect the gas line turn on the water, fire the engine up and let the gas run out. My pump is only a 2.8 gpm so it does not use all the water before it is done. I get 2-3 flushings per tankful. The ears are a pain to install in the water unless I am tied up to a dock. I will do a full inspection of my 2 yr old engine this winter and do not expect to find much salt/corrosion. I flush the engine every month or so. I also use product called salt-away. It supposedly dissolves the crystalized salt. I do this when I flush the engine.

If your dock has water, just put the ears on and flush it every use.

Tom

Edited by - on

soulfinger
1st Mate

Members Avatar

USA
29 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2007 : 19:01:02

My local outboard guy made me a semi-custom flushing rig--they put a little right-angle hose connector on a regular mercury flush thingie that allows me to just barely cram it all on there with a prop at the right angle. It's not easy though--I have to hang way out over the back of the boat, and I have really long arms. Then again, my outboard's on a bracket that sticks out a bit, as opposed to most 250's that have the outboard mounted directly to the transom.

Edited by - on

tinob
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
1883 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2007 : 20:29:36

On my Johnson 9.9 hp, bought new in '93 I never flushed it except when putting it up for the off season. In '03/04 sometime it started to have a low out flow. This motor is an easy one to flush, just remove the top-cover and remove a screw and insert the flushing tool and let it rip, even then I'd only flush at the seasons end, unless needed. All this in salt water.

The new motor is a Nissan 9.8 and the boat needs to be out of the water to use the flushing tool, no way will I hang off the stern and use rabbit ears. At seasons end I put the motor in the shed and run it in a large plastic tub with fresh water. The one problem that I've experienced with this motor was when not removing the prop at the end of the first season. It's a must in my opinion to remove it each year. When I tried to replace the prop with one of a different pitch, I had a dickens of a job getting the old one off. I now intend to remove the prop each season and grease the shaft and washer and nut. If I had the boat on a trailer I'd do so more often, might
even flush it then

Sorry for the ramble.

Val on Calista, # 3936, Patchogue, N.Y.

Edited by - on

triley
Captain

Members Avatar

USA
251 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2007 : 20:33:22

Sail on a lake?

Edited by - on

atgep
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

1009 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2007 : 20:43:12

Mine is a Nissan 9.8 and I will never bother with the flushing port they put on the lower unit. With the motor mount up and the engine still down, I slip the flushing ears on.
It is easy at the dock.

My previous outboard was so salted up it was nearly blocked. I pulled the head to find the passages at least 50% blocked. I want the new Nissan to last at least 10 yrs and figure salt control is a crucial part of getting that kind of longevity.

The salt-away is a good product I believe because it dissolves the salt that may otherwise accumulate.

Tom.

Edited by - on

triley
Captain

Members Avatar

USA
251 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2007 : 20:43:45

Sorry. But, seriously, I just lost my old evinrude yachttwin 9.9 to a soggy 20 year old transom mount backing. Put it in reverse and jammed it and it popped off. The tether let it fall into the lake while crew and I kept the boat on-and-off a couple of ther boats in a 20 knot south wind. Comittee boat came in and helped nudge her into slip, but engine was under water for about 15 minutes. Took about an hour to clear cylinders, clean out lines, dry fuel filter, etc., and literally dry the engine including plug connectors. Then we fogged it and cleaned plugs and I took it home. i changed the lower gear unit oil which was clear but may have taken water through the gasket when it was ruinning. Started the thing in a drum and she worked like a charm. Replaced the backing the week after with a great piece of resinated laminate, and she started with a little longer push on the starter than usual, but after adjusting fuel a little she works better than she has in 5 years. Gotta do that again..... NOT.

Edited by - on

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

3072 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2007 : 21:48:32

I've been told that 4 strokes are much more sensitive to salt buildup than 2-strokes due to the higher temperatures found around the exhaust ports. At any rate, I flush mine every time. Folklore says that running a vinegar/water mix (from a bucket held under the lower end) does a good job at clearing salt. I've never tried it myself.

Edited by - on

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2007 : 22:49:21

Hey, the vinegar/water idea works with coffee makers to clear mineral build-up, maybe it'll work with outboards too. Be sure to use the clear kind, though! LOL
David

Edited by - on

Russ.Johnson
Commodore

Members Avatar

USA
855 Posts

Response Posted - 07/10/2007 : 01:35:31

After my "10-hour break-in service" the dealer said there was salt build-up and crude in the carb.
I now flush my Honda 8hp 4-stroke every time I use it in salt water.
It came with the flush attachment the fits just above the prop.
The dealer told me it was recommended to remove the prop (but no one does).

The first time I used it the boat was on the trailer, the outboard slipped into gear and the hose went flying. Luckily there was no damage.

At the dock, you can raise the outboard, attach a hose, turn on the water, then lower the outboard.
The dealer said to start the outboard then remove the gas line.
This will burn the gas in the carb and is long enough to flush the engine.

When I put the boat on the trailer, it is several hours until I get home.
That's when I use Salt Terminator, but at the dock I just use water.

Russ C250WB #793

Edited by - on

DaveR
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
2015 Posts

Response Posted - 07/10/2007 : 09:10:57

I grew up around salt water and have dealt with many outboards in my life. I run fresh water (have never used additives) through and run the gas out of them every time I use one. Cheap insurance I think. I also replace the water pump every 2 to 3 years and can't remember having even one related problem.

Edited by - on

Sloop Smitten
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
1181 Posts

Response Posted - 07/10/2007 : 10:42:31

The last time I replaced my impeller I also checked the thermostat and it was caked closed with salt. I always flushed my 8HP Honda using a flushing tee added to the rubber cooling hose under the engine housing after each use. This was with the engine not running as it appeared water was flowing from all the water entry and exit ports. I checked my owners manual and they recommend that you run the engine at least 10 minutes when flushing it to allow the thermostat to fully open. Otherwise the system will be flowing water only in the coolant bypass mode which it stays in until the head reaches proper operating temperature. The bypass system on the Honda also feeds the "pee" tube so having a visible water stream does not insure your thermostat or head cooling passages are not blocked. It only assures the water pump is functional and the bypass system is not blocked. Other manufacturers may differ but that is how the Honda functions.

Edited by - on

Justin
Admiral

Members Avatar

502 Posts

Response Posted - 07/10/2007 : 12:48:16

Joe, I installed that same kind of flush attachment tapped into the cooling line on my Honda. That is a good point I didn't think about, but totally makes sense now about the thermostat being closed while the engine is off. So I would assume it is probably best to then raise the outboard out of the water, connect the t-fitting, turn on the water, and then start and run the outboard for several minutes. Is that what you do now?

Edited by - on

Sloop Smitten
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
1181 Posts

Response Posted - 07/10/2007 : 15:04:03

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">raise the outboard out of the water, connect the t-fitting, turn on the water, and then start and run the outboard for several minutes.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Exactly. I usually start it up and them turn to securing the rest of the boat. By the time I get the sails secured and covers installed 10 minutes or more has passed and I disconnect the gas line and let the remainder of the gas in the carburetor run out. The last step is probably not necessary unless you will not be using the motor again for a few weeks but I never know how soon I will be back.

Edited by - on

gnorgan
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
563 Posts

Response Posted - 07/14/2007 : 22:27:52

I use a 5 gallon bucket to flush the motor each time I get back to the dock. I use a line attached to the bucket handle led over the top of the motor back to the handle to keep the bucket in place with the lower end in the bucket with the motor pulled out of the water. I run a hose to the bucket and fill it, then start the motor, unplug the gas, and let it idle until the reservoir is empty and the motor stops. Untie the line and let the bucket slip back into the water with a clean prop that is clear of the salt water.
Oh...I decided that the weight of the motor and bucket full of water might have been a problem in breaking a spring on the old motor mount last year so after getting the motor mount repaired, I now have a "changed" system: When running water into the bucket, I simultaneously lower the motor so the bucket, when full, sits about 3/4s of the way in the salt water. Then, when removing the bucket, I untie the line and then pull up the motor, leaving the bucket in the water until the motor is clear, then retrieve the bucket. Works nicely and won't bend the motor mount.

Edited by - on

soulfinger
1st Mate

Members Avatar

USA
29 Posts

Response Posted - 07/23/2007 : 19:46:13

I doubt the effectiveness of any sort of additive to help remove the salt. Salt is so incredibly soluble in fresh water that it should do just fine by itself.

Edited by - on

bbriner
Captain

Members Avatar

349 Posts

Response Posted - 07/23/2007 : 23:38:02

I use one of those contraptions that fits to a hose with suction cup looking things that fit over the o/b water intake. When I'm done with the last sail of the weekend I put that on the o/b (with it out of the water and vertical) and start the engine. After the engine is running and I've confirmed that water is running through, then I disengage the fuel line. I then let the engine run until it consumes all the fuel left in the carb and stops on its own - this while flushing the salt water out. The whole process lasts 5-10 minutes, during which time I'm putting the boat away.

Edited by - on

atgep
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

1009 Posts

Response Posted - 07/24/2007 : 05:21:25

If you think flushing the engine with fresh water will get rid of salt buildup, think again. If left to build up, it forms a very hard calcium type buildup that will plug the engine up. The chemical salt removers like salt away and vinegar do a good job of helping to melt the salt. I believe there are other things in the water that build up as well. My very poorly maintained sailmaster was nearly completely plugged up when I pulled the head off. This was after I owned it for 2 yrs and had been running it in mostly freshwater and flushing it regularly.

On my new Nissan I use salt-away monthly and flush weekly with freshwater. In Dec I will do a in-depth inspection (2 yr 150 hr). I plan on replacing the impeller, carb teardown and I will pull the thermostat to check it. I will post my findings of this.

Tom.

Edited by - on

DaveR
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
2015 Posts

Response Posted - 07/24/2007 : 08:29:45

I have a <u>1975</u> Johnson 50 that's been in salt water all it's life. It's been flushed each time it's used and I've never had a problem.

Edited by - on

Topic

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Jump To:

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.