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What is with my motor?

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cmckitrick
Navigator

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USA
116 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/01/2007 : 07:38:05

Two years ago part way through the season I could not get my '95 8 hp Mercury motor to start. I tried fresh gas and a new gas tank..nothing. I took it to the shop. The guy told me not only did it start for him, he could not get it to not start. He thought it worked great. I got it back to the boat. It would'nt start. A few weeks later it finally did. I put the boat in after having the motor serviced two years ago (didnt go in last season) and the motor has worked great. Used it the other night. Worked great. Tried starting it yesterday..nothing. I am very frustrated. I do not know a whole lot about engines. My questions are: Does anyone have ideas? I am going to try fresh gas with stabalizer. Also I am tempted to get a new motor because I just cant have this ifyness. I am not that experienced and I need a dependable motor. It seems all there is are 4 strokes. I think I have the origional mount. Would I need a new mount for a four stroke. I dont know what weight capacity is for origional motor brackets. Thanks for listening. I was having such a good season until yesterday.

Charlie McKitrick
Norwell, MA
Valiant Lady... for now
'81 C 25 SR/FK

Edited by - on

Don B
Captain

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USA
317 Posts

Response Posted - 08/01/2007 : 07:43:46

Let's see...motor starts for mechanic, new gas tank, new gas...how about a new supply hose? Those things are made so cheaply it's unbelievable. Possible obstruction in the bulb or it could be bad connections which would allow air into the line. Even a new hose could be bad.
Good luck.

Edited by - Don B on 08/01/2007 07:49:38

DaveR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2015 Posts

Response Posted - 08/01/2007 : 08:42:44

I've had trouble with my supply line sucking air a couple of times over the years. You should be able to pump your primer bulb until it's hard and will not deflate. If it continues to deflate you've got a problem somewhere. The clamps they use to seal are crap. As soon as I replaced them with adjustable screw tight clamps my problem went away. Good luck!

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 08/01/2007 : 09:05:54

As Don mentioned, I'd replace the fuel line and bulb first. That's the cheapest route.

Electrical problems aside, most starting problems with two strokes are the result of a lack of fuel or too much. Clogged jets, sticking float needle valve, bad fuel pump, fuel line air leaks can all lead to a lack of fuel situation.

In the spring, I had the opposite problem, too much fuel, which caused the engine to not start. It would start if I manually played with the throttle, but as soon as I dropped it back to idle it would stall. In my case, the ball bearing check valve in the priming assembly lodged itself within the spring instead of sitting on top of it. With the ball bearing not able to seat correctly and cut off the fuel supply, fuel just poured into the throttle body flooding the motor.

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Dave Bristle
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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 08/01/2007 : 09:13:03

Sounds suspicious... A couple of possibilities--I'm not intimately familiar with Mercs, but I'm intimately familiar with forgetting things...

1. If you're running it dry before shutting down, or storing it horizontally, are you fully priming it with the fuel line bulb (till the bulb is hard)?

2. Are you remembering to turn on the fuel supply valve? (Dont't ask me why I ask this...)

3. Is it flooding--gas slick showing on the water... ? Try pushing the choke in, turning to full throttle, and pulling a few times--then let it sit for a minute, set the throttle back, and try half-choke.

4. Is there an ignition interlock with the shifter so you can't start in gear, and might the engine have been in gear?

5. Is there a kill-button with a collar for a lanyard, where the collar must be behind the kill-button for ignition to occur--a man-overboard switch? (This is common on newer engines and forgetting it always keeps them from starting--even 225 V6s--I know.

)

Edited by - on

cmckitrick
Navigator

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USA
116 Posts

Response Posted - 08/01/2007 : 09:17:55

The bulb does get nice and hard. I do not know if you call it a bonifide fuel slick but when I lower it in the water there definitly plenty of gas on the water. There is just a red kill swithch which is in the right position. You cannot pull the chord if the motor is not in neutral so I know that is not the problem. Maybe I'll thry a whole new tank and fuel line for starters....so to speak.

Edited by - on

Sloop Smitten
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1181 Posts

Response Posted - 08/01/2007 : 09:38:22

Charlie,
As a quick test to distinguish between fuel and electrical problems, you can get an aerosol can of carburetor cleaner, remove the engine cowling, and spray about 3 seconds worth in the throat of the carburetor. Choke it and try to start the engine. If you get absolutely no sign it is trying to kick over you are most likely looking at a problem on the electrical side. If the engine is flooded this may not work. If you think it may be flooded remove your fuel line and crank the engine over a while, let it set 10 minutes, and try the test again without the fuel line connected.

If it kicks over and dies immediately you probably have a fuel issue. It might be some accumulation of residue in your carb bowl that is sticking the float closed and not allowing fuel into the throat. I have seen this happen on outboards and it can be a problem that comes and goes.

If it does not fire at all, pull a plug and have someone ground the electrode against an unpainted part of the engine while you turn it over. You should be able to distinguish a spark. If you are in bright sunlight it may be hard to see. You can also purchase a device that connects between the plug and wire which allows you to check the spark as well. They sell these at auto parts stores and, I believe, West Marine as well.

These two tests usually give me an idea which part of the combustion process is failing.

Edited by - on

DaveR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2015 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2007 : 07:27:41

Dave Bristle said;
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">5. Is there a kill-button with a collar for a lanyard, where the collar must be behind the kill-button for ignition to occur--a man-overboard switch? (This is common on newer engines and forgetting it always keeps them from starting--even 225 V6s--I know. )<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Charlie,
I almost forgot ........... OK I did forget ........... until Dave B mentioned the above that last year my perfectly running outboard did the exact thing yours is doing now. My neighbor said that it had happened to him as well and that he worked that kill switch in and out by hand which broke whatever film was inhibiting an electrical connection and that it solved his problem. It also solved mine.

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2007 : 08:18:24

Charlie's 8hp Merc has a Run/Stop switch on the side of the motor and a kill button on the very end of the throttle tiller.

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cmckitrick
Navigator

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USA
116 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2007 : 10:02:35

Thank you everyone for all your help. I havent been back on the boat yet. I am seriously thinking about a new motor next season.

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jerlim
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1484 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2007 : 10:20:26

I had a similiar problem w/ the 'run' switch too on my 8hp 4stroke merc.

Edited by - on

Stu Jackson C34
Admiral

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844 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2007 : 18:22:26

When we had our 1990 Evinrude 9.9 2-stroke serviced a few years ago, the kill switch mechanism/electrical "thingy" was replaced by the mechanic. Has been working fine since. If it isn't fuel, it could well be the kill switch INSIDE the engine (even if it looks FINE from the outside). I understand they're pretty fragile and temperamental. It may well be worth your while (and pocketbook) to bring it back to the same shop and ask them to check again. Sometimes when we have a problem with an engine after it's been to an outboard repair shop, we hesitate to return to the same shop, or go to another shop. Give it a try. If he's close, maybe he could come down to your boat.

Edited by - Stu Jackson C34 on 08/02/2007 18:24:04

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