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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
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 Another bottom paint question
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StSimon
Captain

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USA
298 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/02/2007 :  01:13:18  Show Profile
I have sanded down to the gelcoat on my '25. I plan to put Interprotect 2000 on before bottom painting. I may in the future slip the boat but for now it will be dry stored between sails. What bottom paint would you recommend that can stand drying out and not rub off on the bunks when launching & retrieving?

Thanks,

Andy

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2007 :  07:46:51  Show Profile
If you are just dry slipping, you probably don't need a bottom paint which would eliminate the cost and effort expended to maintain the antifouling. And since you are dry slipping, you probably can go without the barrier coat and simply throw a coat of wax on it.

Edited by - dlucier on 08/02/2007 09:11:45
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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2007 :  08:09:53  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by StSimon</i>
<br />What bottom paint would you recommend that can stand drying out and not rub off on the bunks when launching & retrieving?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Those are basically mutually exclusive criteria, and you don't need antifouling anyway (or even a barrier coat) until you keep her in the water.

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2007 :  09:10:04  Show Profile
Micron CSC is one of several ablative bottom paints that can be dry stored for indefinete periods of time. A C25 is usually 'floated' off the trailer so there shouldn't be a lot of wear on the bottom paint from launching and retrieval.

Fresh or saltwater?

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2007 :  09:13:38  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by ClamBeach</i>
<br />Micron CSC is one of several ablative bottom paints that can be dry stored for indefinite periods of time.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

But does it meet Andy's requirement that it not rub off on the trailer? My experience with true ablatives is that it rubs off on everything.

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danc
Deckhand

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USA
22 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2007 :  09:29:41  Show Profile
There are new paints that don't put so much toxic material into the water, or maybe you don't even need antifouling paint as you don't store your boat in the water. See http://concessions.nps.gov/document/SelectingHullPaint.pdf. http://www-csgc.ucsd.edu/STORIES/Nr_AlternativesCopperPaint.html. I now have ablative paint but next time will remove it and try some of the new stuff.

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2007 :  09:37:19  Show Profile
Dan,

It seems you are 0 for 2 on the links.

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Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2007 :  13:32:47  Show Profile
I use VC17M which is not ablative and does not come off on the pads. If I were trailering, and not wet slipped, I would not use any bottom paint.

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aeckhart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1709 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2007 :  13:39:37  Show Profile  Visit aeckhart's Homepage
Unless you plan on extended cruising, I agree with no paint and a good wax job. Spend the money saved on your wi.....ahhh boat.

Edited by - aeckhart on 08/02/2007 13:39:59
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StSimon
Captain

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USA
298 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2007 :  16:00:31  Show Profile
Thanks for all the advice and comments.

Not painting is not an option even though I will be dry sailing. I stripped the old paint and it is UGLY and had hundreds of small blisters.

My plan now is Interprotect 2000 followed by VC-17 Performance Epoxy. It is non-ablative and should be the ticket.

I'll be happy when this job is over. Stripping and sanding was a bear.

Fair winds,

Andy

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Russ.Johnson
Commodore

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USA
855 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2007 :  16:04:39  Show Profile
Randy,
I currently keep my boat on the trailier and have no bottom paint.
I'm considering renting a slip at the lake for the summer, then keeping it on the trailer for the winter.
Would a hard paint like VC17 be the best solution?

Russ C250WB #793

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Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2007 :  18:28:50  Show Profile
Russ, that's exactly what I do - in the water April - September and then on the trailer. I really like VC17M and it is good for lake conditions. It seems very expensive but you don't need much. There are tips as to how to psint it and I will be happy to share those with you if you want. Does not need sanding when you re-apply it. I used to use ablatives but now will not go back. You cannot put VC17 on top of ablative so you have to use it from the get-go or sand off the ablative first.

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2007 :  20:49:19  Show Profile  Visit Frank Hopper's Homepage
I enjoy helping people find boats to buy and advising them on the good and bad about the boat. In my heart a boat with VC-17 already on it is worth another $500.

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 08/04/2007 :  11:58:23  Show Profile
The guys here in the south who are trailer-sailing and racing their C-22's and J-22's are using a white epoxy barrier coat, I think it is a "VC" brand. Drys very hard and gives a very smooth finish, and the white color looks great. Gives the impression of no bottom paint at all. If you still want bottom paint, Interlux Ultra-kote also gives a hard finish, but I understand that it loses effectiveness after a long haul-out.
David

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 08/04/2007 :  12:04:23  Show Profile
Following up on Nautiduck's remarks: According to the marina guy who did my boat's bottom, you have to sand off all the ablative first when switching to any hard finish paint.
David

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millermg
Navigator

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159 Posts

Response Posted - 08/05/2007 :  11:37:00  Show Profile
Let me tip you off on a great paint- On the Santana 20 which I sold this year, I was using HMG Superspeed 52 http://www.hmgmarine.com/superspeed.html which is a new approach to bottom paint. It creates a slippery film making it hard for growth to get a hold of the hull. Aside from being much more environmentally friendly, The added benefit (which I why I first thought I'd try it on the race boat) is this slippery action makes it a very fast bottom, and it makes scrubbing (which the first year I RARELY had to do) a breeze. I got a solid two years out of the first job, and re-coated this spring. It's a hard paint, so would be great for trailer pads, and it's fine to take out of the water repeatedly. I bought it through Jamestown Distributors, however thier web site isn't up this morning for some reason...anyway I do recommend this paint.

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Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 08/06/2007 :  14:03:58  Show Profile
If you use the super slippery stuff be sure to tell the lift operator if you ever lift your boat in/out of the water. Practical Sailor magazine wrote that there have been instances of boats slipping off the straps when they had that bottom paint. The operator needs to be aware of it and can take extra precautions.

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