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Boat Retrieval Launch Ramp Depth

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Chris Z
Captain

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452 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/20/2007 : 10:54:34

So, I was down at the ramp to measure the depth to start thinking about when I need to pull my 25 Swing. The depth at the bottom of the ramp is 53" deep today. Took a measurement of my tandem axle trailer and the height to the middle of the rollers is 36". I am looking for some experience to what depth I need to get my boat back on the trailer. Also some things to consider would be a great help.

Like I said I have a tandem axle trailer that has 4 full sets of of rollers that swivel and tilt.

Chris Z.
Water Warrior
1982 Force 5

Former Owner Blown Away - C25

Edited by - on

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 08/20/2007 : 20:46:53

I've never measured the water depth against the trailer rollers during retrieval. As a WAG, it sounds like you're right in the ballpark for retrieval... aft rollers will maybe be 2' under the surface.

Do you have an extension tongue on your trailer?
Is this salt or fresh water?

Let's see...

Don't forget to crank the keel up!
Unplug your lights before backing in.
Do you have a big, heavy duty strap to secure the boat on the trailer?
Long mooring lines handy to lead the boat on the trailer.
Put the safety chain on in addition to locking the winch before pulling the boat up the ramp.
Make sure there's no overhead obstructions to run the mast into.
Take an 8' stepladder so you can get up on deck.
Lotsa bungie cords, sail wraps etc to secure stuff.

Take your time. Don't let others rush you or rush yourself.
No hurries, no worries... and no damage.

Edited by - on

Chris Z
Captain

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452 Posts

Response Posted - 08/20/2007 : 21:13:56

I am in fresh water. Of course we have been low on water all year and this is the deepest ramp on the lake. I do not have a trailer extension, however using a Chevy 2500 4x4 and should have no problem. The nice thing about my trailer revamp is that I went with LED trailer lights so no problem with that issue. I have the big boat straps, safety chain for the front. Taking care of having a trailering container that will have everything that would be needed for trailering. The nice thing at this ramp is that I have a dock on each side and the concrete that has heavy tread cut into it. One thing I did, that was helpful after reading about someone loosing a turnbuckle, I place the end of the stays coiled up in the anchor locker. It worked out perfect to keep eveything neat and tidy.

Of course here in Northeast Ohio we are getting a lot of rain that should bring back up the levels at Pymatuning Lake.

Edited by - on

stampeder
Master Marine Consultant

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1608 Posts

Response Posted - 08/22/2007 : 14:35:55

I have a tandem axle trailer with rollers- I retrieved my SK with the rear-most rollers just barely submerged. My winch did most of the work, and I would not have attempted it had I not just installed a new HD winch on my trailer.

I did not get the boat all the way up onto the forward most rollers but it was secure enough that I got he boat out of the water and over to the Marine Yard, where I used the sling hoist to get the boat fully onto the trailer and snugged up.

This took place last fall in late October when there was a sudden sharp drop in lake level.

Edited by - stampeder on 08/22/2007 14:37:37

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 08/22/2007 : 15:32:51

Chris,
I'm not sure how useful this is as we've got a C250 WK, but I've learned that I need about five feet of water where my rear wheels are going to end up on the ramp. The other lesson I've learned the hard way is to not launch if I can't get my front-most pads completely underwater, I'd presume the reverse is true, but I don't want to find out. I time my launches & retrievals to coincide with rising tides if I can so my [url="http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=13603&SearchTerms=swimming"]first launch debacle[/url] doesn't get repeated. This isn't so easy to do on a lake, but there are options you can resort to, like using a strap to get the trailer deeper in the water w/o submerging your truck.

Edited by - on

sweetcraft
Admiral

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USA
816 Posts

Response Posted - 08/22/2007 : 23:49:43

Make a copy of Clambeach's list. I do the same with my 79 25 and still use the 2 speed winch to pull the boat up and onto the roller trailer. I just wet the top of the rear fenders and the boat straightens itself as it is pulled onto the trailer. I do one more thing for safety in that I use a large dock line from the bow cleat to the trailer plus the chain before going up the ramp. Try both a shallow and a deep trailer retrival. I do replace the cable every couple of years if it develops teeth and I have two swedge fittings at the hook end.

Edited by - on

Steve Siefken
1st Mate

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USA
81 Posts

Response Posted - 08/25/2007 : 19:16:58

David,

Not quite sure I understand when you said "but I've learned that I need about five feet of water where my rear wheels are going to end up on the ramp."

Could you take a minute to explain the 5 feet of water and how you know where your rear wheels will end up?

Thanks in advance for your patience...

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 08/26/2007 : 09:45:51

Steve,
What I do is eyeball the distance from the edge of the water to where I think my rear wheels will end up. You can do this by pacing the distance from the end of your trailer to the attachment to your truck. I say attachment because I use a strap to launch, you may not. Then you can pace down the pier (starting at water's edge) alongside your ramp the same distance, and then sound the depth. If you get to five feet before you get to the distance, you have plenty of water (remember that the depth for your boat may be different, this is what works for mine). If not, you need to figure out how much further you need to go to get the five feet. I know that Randy (Nautiduck) has to use a strap that's 75' long or something, which tells me he's probably on a very shallow ramp (and I'm sure his launching strap is made of woven stainless). Steeper ramps are better because you get the boat into the water "faster" for the amount of distance down the ramp, plus you don't end up having to get the rear end of your truck wet, something to be avoided in saltwater, and still not a particularly good idea in fresh. The distance changes with the angle of the various ramps, but not significantly. I know that at the few ramps in the Seattle area we've launched at, the only ones that are critical are on lakes. No tides to come along and help you float the boat if you make a mistake (read the link in my original post, about first time launch woes). To gauge the depth of the water I use a sophisticated measuring device made up out of a length of whatever line's not moving fast enough to stay out of my way & a big rusty clevis that's in my truck box as a weight. I sound the water where I think my rear wheels will end up and then hold up the line next to me. If it's wet up to about my armpit, I'm good, I'm about 6'2", you may have to adjust up or down for your height. My biggest concern isn't launching the boat, it's running my trailer off the end of the paved ramp where it does a straight drop off of about a foot (on the ramp I use the most), something I'd have a real difficulty recovering from even with a very friendly tide.

I keep meaning to make up a dedicated measuring line for this, with one end the length of my trailer & strap, then a knot to mark that length, and then the five foot length for the depth measurement. A light line tied to the knot so you can comfortably drop it down to the level of water, and you're set. I saw a diagram on how to do this somewhere, but haven't been able to find it for you. It might have been in one of my books.

Edited by - on

Steve Siefken
1st Mate

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USA
81 Posts

Response Posted - 08/26/2007 : 11:20:28

David,

Thanks for the great explaination. That makes perfect sense.

Edited by - on

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