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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I am about to install a thru hull speed transducer. I need to know if I need to hire a professioal or if I can do this myself. If you have done this please outline the details, tools, transducer of choice etc. Thank you, Steve Steakley Moon Chaser #385 WK
The first thing to remember is that you need to have the boat on the trailer or in slings and out of the water to do this job. This may seem self-evident, but a few years ago a new sailor at my marina came by Snickerdoodle and asked if I thought there was a problem with his electric drill (110VAC shore power). He thought that it was shocking his hand.
Upon asking what he was doing - you guessed it - he was installing his knotmeter transducer and was drilling throught the bottom of his boat with a hole saw while the boat sat in its slip. The 1/4" pilot drill had punctured the bottom and his electric drill was trying to ground through to the lake.
Drilling the hole isn't too tough. I've always adopted the approach of drilling the 1/4" hole from the inside of the boat so that I'd make sure of the transducer position relative to bulkheads, hoses, electrical wiring, etc. Then, using a holesaw, drill the hole from the outside of the hull.
If your transducer uses a "mushroom" flanged fitting, all you have to do is drill the hole with an appropriately sized holesaw, use some 3M 5200 to bed the flange, and secure the flange with the nut on the inside of the boat.
If your transducer is a "flush fit", you will need a special drill bit that will drill a tapered hole for the flange. If you don't have this drill bit you'll have to use a file to create the countersink shape - not so easy to do. So, if you don't have the special drill bit, opt for a knotmeter with the mushroom flange.
BTW: most knotmeters come complete with the transducer and all the appropriate wiring pigtails.
Bob Bumala's web site (C250 #164 "Miracle Max") leads you clearly through the steps of cutting the holes and routing the transducer cables. Photos help you along the way. Unfortunately, my link to Bob's site [http://cornchex.stanford.edu/images/MiracleMax/logbook.html] is either no longer valid or his site is temporarily down. You might email Bob; his email address is listed in the on-line owner directory.
I installed a Raytheon Bi-data unit a few years ago. It requires two holes in the bottom of your boat . . . one for the speedo wheel and one for the sounder. I mounted my pucks side by side rather than one behind the other to avoid turbulence. The installation was quick and easy. Since you own the wing keel model, you have a bit more flexibility in where you locate the transducer(s). On the water-ballast model, Catalina gave us a good sized cut-out in the ballast tank to mount through-hulls (below the v-berth). You'll find the glass laminate in this area to be quite substantial.
Bill, My boat will be on it's trailor and I ordered a mushroom type thru-hull. I assume the typical hole saw that you use for doors etc. will do. Drilling the 1/4' hole from the inside first is the type of info I definitely need. I read on a post on Page 5 that the transducer should be at least 3' from the Keel...what do You think?. Also I read that 3M 5200 caulk may be to strong and it would be very hard to get it out if you had to replace so the 3M4200 was suggested..What do you think?...someone suggested "Life Caulk". I plan to pull the boat out next Saturday...I have paint, parts etc. to get my new electronics installed.
Mark, I tried the web site but no luck, I will email and see if I can get him..thanks for the tip! Steve Steakley
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.