Association Forum - Autopilots

Assn Members Area · Join

Home.

Association Forum

Ships Store

Cruising

Racing

Technical Tips

Photo Gallery - New

Boat Search - Updated

Manuals & Brochures

Swap Meet

Links

Officer Flag Line & Staff

Bylaws & Constitution

Members Area

Join the Association

Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.

Association Forum

Username:	Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

All Forums

Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Autopilots

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Author

Topic

Page: of 2

luckystar
Navigator

Member Avatar

USA
236 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/04/2002 : 14:35:35

Thanks in advance and to all that answered my last thread on wheel steering. Last night, sailing in a decent 4 knot summer breeze (lucky to have even that!) I realized that an autopilot would take care of my needs. And is much cheaper and eaiser to install than a wheel! Now, I need to know a few things before purchasing. Where does it install? How much juice does it use? What brands do what? What would work best for our boats? Is there one that interfaces with GPS? Is it really useful (gps)? I'm a lake sailor and a small lake at that. Which models work best, hold up? Digital display or not? Remotes? All in one units or separate component systems? Thanks for any help and advice or usage stories!

Patrick Burnett, Little Rock, AR
S/V Lucky Star #2707 1982 SK/SR

Edited by - on

Bill Holcomb
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
769 Posts

Response Posted - 08/05/2002 : 09:00:16

Hi Patrick,

The two principal manufacturers for tiller pilots for our boats are Navico and Autohelm. Both are excellent from all I've heard. I've had a Navico for more than 10 years and the unit has worked as designed and I'm happy with it.

I do wish that I'd opted to go for the model one up from the model recommended for a 25' sailboat. Mine works great in most situations, but if the wind really pipes up, my tillerpilot is not sufficient to control the boat is strong wind and bigger waves.

Both brands can interface with GPS and or with a laptop computer if you're inclined. And the power needs are generally minimal (1/2 to 3/4 amp per hour)

Bill Holcomb - C25 Snickerdoodle #4839

Edited by - on

John V.
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
559 Posts

Response Posted - 08/05/2002 : 09:39:39

Patrick,
I use a raymarine st1000. It mounts to a small socket which you can epoxy into the starboard locker cover and connects to the tiller by a small extension that allows the a/p to remain horizontal and at a 90 deg angle to the tiller when it is centered. It stows nicely in the mystery starboard locker. I don't recall how much juice it pulls but I know it depends on conditions.

I found it easy to install and to set up. every once in a while the unit needs to be re-oriented to the magnetic fields local.

good luck

John V. Nin Bimash II Neebish Island MI
77 C25 sk/sr #153

Edited by - on

Greg Jackson
1st Mate

Members Avatar

84 Posts

Response Posted - 08/05/2002 : 10:25:03

The "size of boat" issue is pretty meaningless. They are rated as to the amount of force they will deliver, as well as speed of operation. The amount of force is rarely a problem unless you are sailing a large boat with a barn door style rudder. Anything under 27' with a reasonably balanced rudder will work on any of the models.

The speed of operation, sometimes called "seconds to hard over", is more important. The more expensive models are faster. This is actually opposite of the size factor, as a slow autopilot will work well on a large and heavy boat, while a small and lightweight boat needs faster reaction time to compensate for gusts.

I have had four different autopilots. Basically, I would suggest you proportion your purchase to the conditions you sail under. Light winds are OK for the cheap autopilots, heavy wind, gusty wind, or overpowered boat (too much sail) will require a faster model, perhaps the ball screw model. Flat seas and upwind work with cheap autopilots, where as downwind on a 4' following sea will require the best.

One note: If you move the tiller connection point toward the hinge point of the rudder, you will increase the force required to steer but also increase the effective reaction time. This means you will be making your autopilot into a faster but weaker device. This is an important thing to keep in mind, particularlly for those who sail boats smaller than the C25.

I started with the cheapest model and felt that it was worth the price for single day's use shortly after I got it. We ran out of wind on a week long trip at the north end of the Bay of Green Bay, Lake Michigan. I faced a 14 hour return trip on the motor under a grey haze with no landmarks on the horizon. It would have been 14 hours staring at the compass. Autopilots are wonderful.

G. Jackson

Edited by - on

Dennis Pierce
1st Mate

Members Avatar

USA
59 Posts

Response Posted - 08/05/2002 : 10:27:28

I have a Navico that I never use. The Tiller Tamer works fine for me. Check out swap meets for the old Tiller-Master units. These were bullet proof and tough. My first T-M actually used a beer can for the heading dial case!

I guess I'm getting hold as the high tech stuff bores me.

Dennis Pierce
Gypsy Witch #1719

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 08/05/2002 : 13:02:17

Using an autopilot is so liberating, it is almost hard to describe. From hoisting sails to dousing them, adjusting sail trim, navigating, going below,...etc., the autopilot just makes life a lot easier. Being someone who sails solo about 80% of the time, I no longer feel shorthanded with the autopilot. I bought the Autohelm ST1000plus with the ST60 remote from Sailnet for $399.95 out the door(no sales tax and free shipping). West Marine price for the ST1000plus is $449.99 and $199.99 for the remote, plus tax. Additional costs were $55.00 for the cantilever mounting kit and a few more dollars for wiring. Installation was fairly easy. I mounted the cantilever bracket on the starboard side seatback, the electrical connector in the aft portion of the starboard coaming compartment, and the remote is mounted on the inside of the cabin on the starboard companionway bulkhead(I've found that the remote is more of a novelty/conversation piece than a useful piloting device). The following pics are from Albert Iturrey's installation and are identical to my installation with the exception of the remote control connector location(inside cabin), additional waterproof on/off switch(coaming compartment), and GPS hookup(inside cabin).

<img src="http://www.comhertz.com/abacus/gps_autopilot.jpg" border=0>
<img src="http://www.comhertz.com/abacus/socket.jpg" border=0>

To see Albert's entire autopilot thread, go to this link.
http://www.catalina25-250.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=755

As for which brand(Raymarine/Simrad) and model of autopilot to choose, that is somewhat of a personal preference type of choice. I bought the ST1000 and I am extremely satisfied with it's performance. Some people will advocate getting the ST2000 with it's greater boat weight capacity(10,000lbs vs 6,600lbs) and faster helmspeed(8 vs 4.5 seconds lock-to-lock), but in my experience, if you have the balanced rudder and your sails are properly balanced, the ST1000 is all that you need.

Don Lucier, North Star
C25 SR/FK

Edited by - dlucier on 08/05/2002 13:17:44

Edited by - on

RichardG
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 08/05/2002 : 14:27:17

I'm very happy with my Navico. It is mounted like Don's, except instead of the cantilever kit, I got a 4" screw-in extension rod (about $15) and installed the socket in the top of the coaming.

RichardG 81 C25 SR/FK "Sanity"

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 08/05/2002 : 17:02:23

Patrick,

I'm very pleased with the Raymarine ST2000Plus tiller autopilot. Like many others, I got mine cheap from Sailnet with the ST60 remote included. I haven't yet used the remote control or GPS interface. I plan to follow Albert's excellent example of locating the autopilot and GPS connectors (along with a switch for the foredeck light) inside the starboard coaming box just as soon as I get around to building one. My tiller pilot mounts on top of the starboard coaming, not to the cockpit locker cover as do some others. I added about a 5" extension rod to the ram. An autopilot has been the handiest addition to the boat so far, especially for singlehanding.

-- Leon Sisson

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 08/05/2002 : 18:04:27

To those considering an autopilot, I would wait until Sailnet puts them on sale, which is usually every couple of weeks or so. Additionally, Raymarine states when determining boat displacement,

"...always use fully laden displacement which is often 20% above the designed displacement..." - Raymarine

Adding 20% to the C25 designed displacements you would get:

Fixed = 4,550 lbs plus 910 lbs = 5,460 lbs
Swing = 4,150 lbs plus 830 lbs = 4,980 lbs
Wing = 4,400 lbs plus 880 lbs = 5,280 lbs

So according to Raymarine's recommendations, if you had a fixed keel C25, you would still be 1,140 lbs under the recommended boat displacement for an ST1000 and 5,540 lbs under for the ST2000.

Don Lucier, North Star
C25 SR/FK

Edited by - on

Ken Cave
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
148 Posts

Response Posted - 08/05/2002 : 22:37:55

Depends on how you use your Autohelm. On a 13,000 pound sail boat I use a 2000 unit without any problems. Now, I do not try to make it work in 20 knot winds at a close haul either!! On my Catalina I used a 1000 in all sorts of weather and had only the utmost respect for my "Otto"!!

Ken Cave

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 08/05/2002 : 22:41:11

Neat stuff! BTW, Patrick... Don's great picture shows the unit mounted on the starboard side--notice that his motor is on the port side. (The swim later gives it away).

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette "Passage" in SW CT

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 08/05/2002 : 23:06:37

Dave,

That is not a picture of my boat. These pictures were provided by Albert Iturrey when he installed his autopilot last spring. But you bring up a good point. My setup is like the one in the picture. Motor to port and autopilot to starboard. This setup, with the engine and autopilot on opposite sides of the boat, allows you to adjust the engine without disconnecting the autopilot or climbing over it.

Don Lucier, North Star
C25 SR/FK

Edited by - on

luckystar
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
236 Posts

Response Posted - 08/06/2002 : 01:21:19

Wow! SUPER! I'm so looking forward to getting one. After my sail this last weekend singlehanding, it would have been so nice to make a sandwich on the long, slow downwind run that I took for almost three hours. I had my little cooler in the cockpit, but didn't feel comfortable leaving the helm for long at all. I've started the Autopilot fund now, pulling in all the money that people owe me (which is usually several hundred, I'm a sucker, what can I say!?) So now in the next few weeks, it will really come down to understanding what I need to purchase to get this thing installed (cantelever brackets, wiring, etc) Also, I would be mounting to my port side, as motor is on strbrd. I think with my usual light lake winds (occassionally is gets blustery, but mostly seems like we have 8-12 steady in the good season) I might just go with the cheapo simrad model for $300 considering that I've done without one at all. Once again, thanks for all the advice. I'm still a little concerned with cockpit placement though.

Patrick Burnett, Little Rock, AR
S/V Lucky Star #2707 1982 SK/SR

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 08/06/2002 : 01:56:17

"...I might just go with the cheapo simrad model for $300 considering that I've done without one at all." - Patrick Burnett

You may want to consider getting the Raymarine ST1000($399.99) instead of the "cheapo" Simrad TP10 that Sailnet has for $299.95 for a couple of reasons. Firstly, the Simrad TP10 does not have NMEA or remote support. This means that you will not be able to interface this unit with a GPS/windmeter nor would you be able to use a remote control. Secondly, with the Simrad unit you must purchase the deck plug separately for $39.99. I would consider spending the extra $60.00 and get the ST1000, besides it has an LCD that displays compass data and if your main compass were ever to fail, you could always use the autopilot to determine your heading.

Don Lucier, North Star
C25 SR/FK

Edited by - on

luckystar
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
236 Posts

Response Posted - 08/06/2002 : 23:33:50

You're right Don! I was looking into it today and realized how much you have to buy separately. I'll probably need to buy the Cantelever bracket no matter which system I buy, right? But the addition of the deck plug just doesn't make it worth it on the Simrad. The Autohelm has all the expandability, whether I choose to or not and the LCD is a nice touch while night sailing! Sailnet is backordered on the Autohelm right now and I'm hoping to catch it on sale soon (it's back up to something like $429, still cheaper than the others, though!).

Patrick Burnett, Little Rock, AR
S/V Lucky Star #2707 1982 SK/SR

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 08/06/2002 : 23:43:13

If you are not in a rush I would wait until they put the Autohelm's on a better sale. I bought my ST1000 for 399.95 and it included the remote so I would wait until they run this sale again. It runs every other month or so.

Don Lucier, North Star
C25 SR/FK

Edited by - on

albert
Captain

Members Avatar

USA
262 Posts

Response Posted - 08/06/2002 : 23:46:20

I installed an Autohelm 2000.

I would recommend the 2000 over the 1000. Our loaded C-25's are at the upper limit of the 1000. Remember that the rating is based on average sea conditions (whatever "average" is <img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle> ). See sizing chart at http://www.raymarine.com/raymarine/Default.asp?site=1&Section=2&Page=87&Parent=5

You can view the Autohelm 1000/2000 manual at:
http://www.raymarine.com/raymarine/SubmittedFiles//Handbooks/Autopilots/ST1000and2000plus.pdf

Follow the link below for pictures of my installation. BTW my engine is on the Port side; therefore autopilot goes on Strbd.

Albert Iturrey
al@comhertz.com
Abacus': http://www.comhertz.com/abacus

Edited by - albert on 08/06/2002 23:48:41

Edited by - on

albert
Captain

Members Avatar

USA
262 Posts

Response Posted - 08/06/2002 : 23:53:04

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
If you are not in a rush I would wait until they put the Autohelm's on a better sale. I bought my ST1000 for 399.95 and it included the remote so I would wait until they run this sale again. It runs every other month or so.

Don Lucier, North Star
C25 SR/FK

<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

I Agree with Don. I bought my ST2000 for $540 with remote from Sailnet during the Miami Boat show earlier this year. I went on the last day of the show and bought the unit that they had on display. It was brand new and I did the sales rep a favor--one less thing for him to lug back.

On my installation I used the Autohelm Cantilever Socket Assembly. This runs an additional $55 and works for either the ST1000 or ST2000 models.

Albert Iturrey
al@comhertz.com
Abacus': http://www.comhertz.com/abacus

Edited by - albert on 08/06/2002 23:54:47

Edited by - on

luckystar
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
236 Posts

Response Posted - 08/07/2002 : 00:04:14

Tough choices! I will probably go with the 1000 due to my conditions (light) and the price. I don't really need a remote, that's just another toy that I'm not used to having anyway. The way I look at it, if the autopilot is having trouble due to weatherhelm on my lake, either my sails are not trimmed proper or I really need to be at the helm for safety's sake. I have a swing keel and have the minimum of weight on board with a 60lb motor and most things kept in a dock box back at the marina. I'm mainly a day/night sailor, occassionally staying out for a weekend. I plan to add the balanced rudder in some future year, and I'm sure that it will help the AP even more. Can't wait til it goes on sale, so I can go on sail! Thanks to everyone, the decision is made!

Patrick Burnett, Little Rock, AR
S/V Lucky Star #2707 1982 SK/SR

Edited by - on

RichardG
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 08/07/2002 : 15:29:39

Patrick:

"I'll probably need to buy the Cantelever bracket no matter which system I buy, right?"

No -- As Leon and I have done, you can install the socket on top of the coaming. This is a much simpler and less expensive installation because it requires only a basic screw-in extension rod ($13 for Simrad, $17 for Raymarine).

Also, in defense of the Simrad unit (aka Navico):

At $290 (on sale), despite being $110 less than the Raymarine ST1000, the Navico is not "cheapo". In fact, I've heard no instances of quality problems with the Navico. I cannot say the same about the Raytheon unit, although they have a good reputation for sticking behind their product when problems occur.

"Simrad unit you must purchase the deck plug separately for $39.99" -- Not necessary. You can use one made by Perko or others, which cost much less.

"you will not be able to interface this unit with a GPS/windmeter nor would you be able to use a remote control" -- True, but I believe the ability to connect the GPS to your tiller pilot doesn't have value for everyone, only to those who like to "tinker" with tech stuff. When steering to a GPS waypoint, you simply set the tiller pilot to "on" when your compass course is correct and every ten minutes or so, during the course of regular lookouts, you may need to make slight adjustments to the tiller pilot based on what the GPS says. In practice, it's not complicated at all and you don't have to do it often. I don't see the value of a remote control because when I make course changes, I'm always in the cockpit and in arms reach of the tiller pilot. Also, it's recommended you have a non-electonic backup compass aboard should your main bulkhead compass fail (many use a handheld for this purpose), making the LCD display redundant (although I'm a big proponent of redundant systems onboard, just not this way for the compass).

RichardG 81 C25 SR/FK "Sanity"

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 08/07/2002 : 18:17:04

Ouch! <img src=icon_smile_blackeye.gif border=0 align=middle> Easy does it, Richard, I was merely pointing out the differences between the two units in relation to their cost, and not advocating the Autohelm over the Simrad(Do you work for Simrad? <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> )

Anyway, on my Autohelm installation, I had to use the cantilever bracket mounted to the seatback because my stern light and power accessory outlet were in the way of the prospective socket location. Additionally, it wouldn't have allowed a horizontal mount as per Raymarine's instructions.

I, too, do not see the value in the remote and even said that in my original post("the remote is a bit of a novelty/conversation piece rather than a useful piloting tool).

As far as the GPS interface being for "those who like to "tinker" with tech stuff", having an autopilot IS tinkering with tech stuff. If you want low tech then just get a length of line and lash the tiller down instead of using an autopilot.

And, finally, I didn't say you "should" use the built-in compass as a backup, merely that it does have an display showing compass data that one can use if necessary.

Don Lucier, North Star
C25 SR/FK

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 08/07/2002 : 22:30:08

I'm wondering about the ST1000 vs ST2000 issue... The larger system has a faster "hard over" or lock-to-lock rate, but I don't see what that has to do with boat displacement. The forces on the rudder have little to do with displacement, and much to do with rig and rudder balance. My C-25 (with balanced rudder) steers with less force than my 700 lb. Daysailer did, and a Hobie 14 I once rented wanted to rip my arm off!

On a swing keel, weather helm can be reduced by raising the keel somewhat, as well as by adjusting sails and even the mast rake. The balanced rudder does not "balance out" weather helm, but it reduces the forces for correcting it or for making any turns. (It could be argued a balanced rudder is detrimental to racers, since it masks the drag caused by course corrections and weather helm.) Tiller forces and reaction times would seem to be the issue for an autopilot--I don't see how displacement relates to either. Somebody ejikate me. <img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette "Passage" in SW CT

Edited by - on

RichardG
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 08/09/2002 : 19:09:22

Don:

Certainly no offense intended. I was simply offering another view so Patrick (or others) would have more information from which to objectively make their purchasing and installation decision based on what is truely important for him. Neither is better for all, but one is probably better for him. And I don't work for Simrad or Raytheon.<img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>

You are correct in that the socket installation on top of the coaming does not make the unit perfectly level. However, it's very close. Although it has been quite a few years since my engineering days, the geometry of the forces are probably close to what they would be if it was exactly level. Anyway, it seems to work fine. Here you can see the brass socket just aft of the electic plug on the port coaming next to the cleat.

<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2d628b3127cce9f2bdac08e4b0000001410" border=0>

RichardG 81 C25 SR/FK "Sanity"

Edited by - on

RichardG
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 08/09/2002 : 19:27:30

Dave:

First, I am no expert. But it seems it's easier if you assume there is a complete absense of weather helm. Then the forces put on the rudder (and therefore the tiller and then the auto pilot) are greater in a bigger boat because a bigger boat has greater momentum (mass X velocity). And greater momentum means greater force by the rudder on the water when you turn it, such as when the auto pilot attempts to put the boat back on the correct coarse. And possibly related -- the force the water puts on the rudder is equal and opposite to the force the rudder needs to put on the water in order to turn the boat back on coarse. Anyway, it has been much too long since I've attempted to speak in such terms and should probably quit immediately.

Any "practicing" engineers out there, please rebut...

RichardG 81 C25 SR/FK "Sanity"

Edited by - RichardG on 08/09/2002 19:29:49

Edited by - on

Mike Vaccaro
1st Mate

Members Avatar

77 Posts

Response Posted - 08/15/2002 : 08:43:10

A few observations regarding auto pilots:

1. They are the single best way to configure your boat for single-handing!

2. Externally mounted tiller pilots are more reliable than wheel pilots (there's no belt to deal with).

3. Smaller boats require a faster rudder response, especially when sailing downwind or dealing with quartering or following seas. This is the most demanding steering regime. Autopilots are most taxed under these conditions. Manufacturers recommend hand steering under these conditions.

4. There are only two tiller pilot manufacturers at present: Raytheon and Simrad.

5. There are two types of actuators used in tiller pilots: simple jack screws and recirculating ball drives. The recirculating ball drive is faster and requires less power. The manufacturers say that they haven't noted a difference in the amount each type requires for maintenance, although logic would dictate the simpler design (the jack screw) should be more reliable in the long run. The down side is that the jack screw runs slower, thus making the pilot less responsive under demanding conditions.

6. Both brands of auto pilots mount in an identical manner. The only difference between the two is that the mid-stroke point for Raytheon models is 23.2" vs. 23.5" for Simrad models. Either unit will mount to either the cockpit combing or a cantilever mounting. The combing mount is the "KISS" solution, and will require an actuator extension for either brand. The cantilever mounts cost more, and the Raytheon type is custom fit and removeable, whereas the Simrad simply has five holes. I wasn't able to ascertain whether the Simrad mount can be unscrewed. This could be painful if you're not careful in a crowded cockpit!

7. Only Simrad makes a dirt-simple, jack-screw pilot, the TP-10.

8. Advertised "hard-over" times are not what they seem. Simrad advertises a stop-to-stop time of 8" for all of it's models, whereas Raytheon lists a nominal 4.5" for the ST-2000. Load tests actually show the Simrad TP-30 to be the fastest of the bunch. The actual speed of throw will vary with load. Raytheon uses zero load speed, while Simrad uses an "average load speed." In any case, recirculating ball drives are always faster than jack screws (TP-10, -20 and the ST-1000 are jack screw driven).

9. The Simrad TP-30 has the fastest drive under load, lowest power consumption (although standby power consumption is slightly higher than the Raytheon ST-2000).

10. The Raytheon pilots have an LED display that allows better interface for tweeking or NMEA data management. Both pilots also offer "propritary" data input in addition to NMEA formated information (all except for the stand alone Simrad TP-10).

11. Simrad units have be ostensibly tested for 24-hours of continuous operation immersed in salt water. I was unable to find confirmation of this advertising claim in company literature.

The bottom line: Any of these pilots would work fine on a Catalina 25. If you single-hand under more demanding circumstances (racing, for example), then you may want to invest more. If power management is critical, purchase a pilot with a recirculating ball drive. If you want your pilot to interface with wind or navigation instruments, purchase a model that allows interface (all but the TP-10). Remote controls are great to increase tactical flexability, but good seamanship dictates that you don't leave the cockpit unattended for more than a few minutes at a time. Notice that overall length or displacement of the boat never really entered the equation!

Hope this helps--we decided to buy a TP30 (I like the simple user interface, high speed and low power consumption).

Cheers,

Mike Vaccaro on the "Swoose"
84 TR/SK #4707

Edited by - Mike Vaccaro on 08/15/2002 08:47:46

Edited by - on

RichardG
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 08/15/2002 : 15:29:47

Mike:

Wow -- great analysis!

While I can visualize how a "screw jack" works, but how does the "recirculating ball drive" operate?

RichardG 81 C25 SR/FK "Sanity"

Edited by - on

Page: of 2

Topic

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Jump To:

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.